2" Rigid offset

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My nephew used one of those bottle jack benders to fabricate the frame of one of his early Rock Crawlers, they can do alot for an economy bender.

Roger
 
I recently used one of the Hydraulic units ($89 from Harbor Freight) for this very thing. It was like a 15% offset. local supply house actually had 12.5? bends in stock, but it didn't quite cut it. Luckily mine was in the wall so it didn't really matter what it looked like.
 
May sound kinda funny, but you can get a muffler shop to bend it for you. I can take 2" rigid in to a local shop and ask one of the guys if he'll bend it for a crisp $20. Takes about 5 minutes.
 
marcerrin said:
May sound kinda funny, but you can get a muffler shop to bend it for you. I can take 2" rigid in to a local shop and ask one of the guys if he'll bend it for a crisp $20. Takes about 5 minutes.

I did that a few times when I first started out and didn't have any good equipment yet. Seems like to me the squeeze on the pipe from a muffler shop reduces the internal diamater to a visable degree, and therefore it is I believe a code violation to use muffler shops in this way. One of my best equipment investments has been my greenlee 555 bender, with the computer pendant and bells and whistles. I also have a 777 but that thing gets such little use, I might as well sell it. On the other hand, the 555 paid for itself right away, and keeps on chuggin. I think I got it like about 18 or 19 years ago. Still works great.
 
I noticed the other day that my best bender (cam track) is sitting in a gang box submerged in about 2" of hydraulic oil. Naturally, nobody mentioned that anything was wrong, so I'm not sure what the problem is. On the bright side, the gang box doesn't leak.
 
mdshunk said:
I noticed the other day that my best bender (cam track) is sitting in a gang box submerged in about 2" of hydraulic oil. Naturally, nobody mentioned that anything was wrong, so I'm not sure what the problem is. On the bright side, the gang box doesn't leak.

Another bright side is less or no rust? :smile:
 
I was thinking of just running it straight up through and flashing it, as someone else had suggested - but as usual Mdshunk comes through and shows a photo of why it wouldn't work out. Too close, unless ya could just "notch" it, and cap off the trailing edge (downward side) of the fascia - but that would look like a real hack job. Gotta go with the "rent a bender" suggestion.

Mdshunk - you sure you haven't been in this business 30+ years - you've seemed to have run in to quite a bit. You must carry a camera 24/7. Always look forward to your inputs!
 
one of my local supply houses will cut thread and bend conduit. I will use them if I only need one offset such as a service mast. They are cheaper than me setting up the threader and bender for one cut and bend.
 
Dont tell anyone, but I've used a plumbers hydraulic bender before.


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I didn't say it was your fault. I said I was going to blame you

When I was an apprentice I worked for a company that had a sister company, a plumbing outfit. The bender was all we used for rigid, bent 90's in multi bends. Completed numerous school where all underground conduit was rigid.
 
mdshunk said:
I think he's saying that there's no overhang to go up through, even if he wanted to. I run into these from time to time. This is not my work, but here's a couple examples of why you need to sometimes offset a mast:

HPIM0543.jpg


HPIM0542.jpg

This is what I'm looking to do as opposed to versa bar and hack in fasha board
 
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