I am at my house 30 miles from the nearest inspector. LMAO
Good thing, no inspections as you can't run a 20A lighting circuit and use #14 from switch to lights.
None of that sheathing, except 1/4" past the connector, has to be in the panel. So covering the markings is a non-issue.
Because my lighting and recept circuits aren't separate. I get the whole rating thing....but when a group of 4 wafer lights pulls less than a couple amps, anything over 14 is insane to me. Don't worry, I don't wire house for a living....as if you couldn't already tell.
I took that as he meant covering the markings on the breakers.
Just going by your labels, some just say lighting. Aside from code, #12 in switch boxes is a nightmare and quickly eats up box fill. You took care of that with the #14 to the lights!Because my lighting and recept circuits aren't separate. I get the whole rating thing....but when a group of 4 wafer lights pulls less than a couple amps, anything over 14 is insane to me. Don't worry, I don't wire house for a living....as if you couldn't already tell.
Well, you are correct, a few of the circuits are only lighting, I just didn't divide all the lighting up. Dealing with box fill in 3 and 4-gang boxes that are full of 3 and 4 way switches and wafer driver boxes with 12 sucks and that's why I used 14 for that little stuff. Like I said...code smode. If I was doing it for someone else and was liable then it would be different. I spent weeks planning this house and the electrical plan all out on paper. I haven't even trimmed it out yet and there are a dozen things I would have done differently. I guess the day I stop learning I'll be dead.Just going by your labels, some just say lighting. Aside from code, #12 in switch boxes is a nightmare and quickly eats up box fill. You took care of that with the #14 to the lights!
Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. I ran the mains after I got the panels done. Didn't want to work around that big crap. And no, I did not put big ol' fallopian tube looking loops in the mains at the top of the panel. LMAOThe mains must be that new invisible wire. I like it.
That's not an acceptable way to meet that goal. It relies on the user (which might not be you, it could be the successor owner after your sudden death, or a visitor) to flip the main breaker, and it would use a suicide cord.
Agreed. Not ideal, but gives a means if necessary.
Homeline (as do many manufacturers and some third parties) has a kit that bolts to the cover of the panel to mechanically interlock the main breaker with one specific breaker location, often the upper right. Namely:
www.se.com
Ahhh, I follow you now. Basically, ANY 50A can be back feed is the user is brave enough. I do have a suicide cord from years past and I won't use it unless abosultely necessary.Homeline (as do many manufacturers and some third parties) has a kit that bolts to the cover of the panel to mechanically interlock the main breaker with one specific breaker location, often the upper right. Namely:
HOMCGK2C - Load center accessory, Homeline, interlock kit, generator circuit breaker, high amp, indoor, clam packaging | Schneider Electric USA
Schneider Electric USA. HOMCGK2C - Load center accessory, Homeline, interlock kit, generator circuit breaker, high amp, indoor, clam packaging.
That means you can still do something stupid by taking the panel cover off, but that shouldn't happen accidentally or unintentionally . . .
Cheers, Wayne
Thanks for the link. I had forgot about those little brackets.
Do the breakers still break? The interference fit doesn't restrict their tripping, does it?
Breakers are trip free, meaning it will trip even with the handle held on
Yes ^^^^^^. You just have to pull them if you need to reset them. I've done some sketchy schidt for a Klondike Bar....but I'd never want a breaker that couldn't trip if it needed to.
Yep.
