#4 AL OCP

letgomywago

Senior Member
Location
Washington state and Oregon coast
Occupation
residential electrician
Thanks for the confirmation.
Now I know that I can size SE cable off the 75* column after derating for distance & ambient temperature, and terminal & eqpt. rating.
So that means this 4awg AL SE can be protected by a 60A breaker without falling into the "upsize OCP" category from 55A 60*C rating.

I'm still pressing the owner to replace this feeder to 100A which will get the grounds and neutrals split out like they should be. He has added a lot of additional loads to the house panel over the years.
Sell him a 2 ser on a 90amp breaker. It'll cost less than what you're trying to sell him so he might go for it. Honestly when someone wants you to do the job their way and not necessarily the correct or your way it'll end up being a not great job.
 

letgomywago

Senior Member
Location
Washington state and Oregon coast
Occupation
residential electrician
That explains why SE is often seen on residential HVAC & large appliances. It allows smaller wire than NM provided the lugs and eqpt are rated at 75*C and ambient temp derating is in line.
It's common to do this too because of needing a true 60 amp circuit but 6 romex is only good for 55 amps and the next size up rule doesn't fly then. 6 SEU is way cheaper than 4-3 Romex and I've never seen 4-2 Romex.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
I just heard back from the homeowner... turns out his wife and daughter were using blow dryers and curling irons for an extended period of time leading up to the feeder breaker tripping. I reminded him about the discomfort of having the A/C blower & controls stop working not to mention the hazard of his saltwater aquarium going without power for an unknown period of time if they weren't home when this tripped... so that ought to get him in the right mind of to do the upgrade.😉
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
It's common to do this too because of needing a true 60 amp circuit but 6 romex is only good for 55 amps and the next size up rule doesn't fly then. 6 SEU is way cheaper than 4-3 Romex and I've never seen 4-2 Romex.
Yeah I caught the 55A continuous load limitation at 60* for #6 CU; this #4AL SE cablr is rated at 65A@75* but I'm not going to tell the customer that or he'll want to try it. If it was a 4-wire feeder I might, but it's not.
The existing aluminum #4 feeder is SE 2 conductor using the spiral as a neutral and has no separate ground. The subpanel has the can bonded to the neutral bar with all the neutrals & grounds on it Should've never been wired this way but hey! that's how it was wired in 1974 by Romex hands that didn't know better -or didn't care.

Most residential electricians look at me like deer in the headlights when I explain the need to Isolate the neutral from the grounds after the neutral is bonded at the service.
 
Last edited:

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
Yeah I caught the 55A continuous load limitation at 60* for #6 CU; this #4AL SE cablr is rated at 65A@75* but I'm not going to tell the customer that or he'll want to try it. If it was a 4-wire feeder I might, but it's not.
The existing aluminum #4 feeder is SE 2 conductor using the spiral as a neutral and has no separate ground. The subpanel has the can bonded to the neutral bar with all the neutrals & grounds on it Should've never been wired this way but hey! that's how it was wired in 1974 by Romex hands that didn't know better -or didn't care.

Most residential electricians look at me like deer in the headlights when I explain the need to Isolate the neutral from the grounds after the neutral is bonded at the service.
Where is the subpanel in relation to the house?
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
Where is the subpanel in relation to the house?
It's on an interior wall in the laundry room of the house near the back door. The main panel is in the garage. The feeder runs through a breezeway attic connecting the garage to the house at the back door. I guesstimate the feeder is 65-70 feet long. I think the attic is accessible and I can pull the new feeder through the breezeway. The garage interior is unfinished.
 
Last edited:

Little Bill

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee NEC:2017
Occupation
Semi-Retired Electrician
It's on an interior wall in the laundry room of the house near the back door. The main panel is in the garage. The feeder runs through a breezeway attic connecting the garage to the house at the back door. I guesstimate the feeder is 65-70 feet long. I think the attic is accessible and I can pull the new feeder through the breezeway. The garage interior is unfinished.
Why I was asking is, 3-wire feeders used to be allowed to subpanels in a remote building (with stipulations) and are grandfathered. They were never allowed in the same building as the main. So in your case, a 4-wire is needed to be compliant.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
Sell him a 2 ser on a 90amp breaker. It'll cost less than what you're trying to sell him so he might go for it. Honestly when someone wants you to do the job their way and not necessarily the correct or your way it'll end up being a not great job.

#2 aluminum SER? Might be a bit small. We've been in a heat wave, hitting 100* plus here for 2 weeks, and the attic has to be a lot hotter.
Normally it is low-to mid 90's this time of year, not hitting 100* until late July or August. Last summer was brutal as well. The wire will be through the unfinished garage rafters then in the attic so I'm not sure where to draw the line on ambient temp under these circumstances.

#2 aluminum SER derates to 91A at 40*C/104*F ambient, dropping to 82A at 50*C/122*F ambient.
#1 aluminum SER derates to 100A at 45*C/113*F ambient or 94.3A at 50*C/122*F ambient.
1awg AL may be reasonably priced due to popularity/availability. I'll have to price it out when the supply houses open Monday.
I know what you mean about a "not great job", but in this case he isn't trying to tell me what's right... he's just dealing with accepting the cost. Wife Acceptance Factor comes into play here too 😉.
A 90A would be a big improvement and could very well be the ticket. 80A might even do him justice, but at this point I'd rather see him spend the money on bigger wire than to wade through all the load calculation and guessing what he might add on to his house next. One and done is my M.O.
 

letgomywago

Senior Member
Location
Washington state and Oregon coast
Occupation
residential electrician
#2 aluminum SER? Might be a bit small. We've been in a heat wave, hitting 100* plus here for 2 weeks, and the attic has to be a lot hotter.
Normally it is low-to mid 90's this time of year, not hitting 100* until late July or August. Last summer was brutal as well. The wire will be through the unfinished garage rafters then in the attic so I'm not sure where to draw the line on ambient temp under these circumstances.

#2 aluminum SER derates to 91A at 40*C/104*F ambient, dropping to 82A at 50*C/122*F ambient.
#1 aluminum SER derates to 100A at 45*C/113*F ambient or 94.3A at 50*C/122*F ambient.
1awg AL may be reasonably priced due to popularity/availability. I'll have to price it out when the supply houses open Monday.
I know what you mean about a "not great job", but in this case he isn't trying to tell me what's right... he's just dealing with accepting the cost. Wife Acceptance Factor comes into play here too 😉.
A 90A would be a big improvement and could very well be the ticket. 80A might even do him justice, but at this point I'd rather see him spend the money on bigger wire than to wade through all the load calculation and guessing what he might add on to his house next. One and done is my M.O.
Have you done an actual load calc yet for the panel. I doubt it's that high of a load. Cost for 2 ser with 80 or 90 amp breaker will be 30% less than going to 1. It's a sweet spot for costs. It's only good for an 85 amp load at the lugs so even if you're down to 82 for the derate you're ahead of the game still.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
Why I was asking is, 3-wire feeders used to be allowed to subpanels in a remote building (with stipulations) and are grandfathered. They were never allowed in the same building as the main. So in your case, a 4-wire is needed to be compliant.
You might he on to something here. The garage was originally considered to be "detached", about 10' behind the house offset to the side with only the breezeway connecting it to the house. This MAY be considered a separate building...? I grew up in this neighborhood in the 70's, and that's how all the houses were built around here.

However, in this case, the owner has extended the 2nd story roof of the house over the driveway making a huge open portico in front of the garage, further connecting the garage and breezeway. He also built a large covered patio across the back of the house up to the breezeway, so the breezeway is practically indistinguishable. The house and garage is pretty much one continuous structure now. Last year he added a pool and water feature.
I got called in when he started adding on another covered area attached to the rear of the garage, swallowing his original Service on the rear of the garage, forcing him to move the Service and the generator. I built a new 200A Service on the far corner of the garage, moved the ATS & reconnected the 18Kw gen now located in the back corner of the yard, and replaced the original 12-space panel with a 30-space. He's about out of Real Estate to develop here lol.
 
Last edited:

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
Have you done an actual load calc yet for the panel. I doubt it's that high of a load. Cost for 2 ser with 80 or 90 amp breaker will be 30% less than going to 1. It's a sweet spot for costs. It's only good for an 85 amp load at the lugs so even if you're down to 82 for the derate you're ahead of the game still.
No, I haven't, and I don't look forward to trying to, what with all the additions he has made that I would have to wade through to discover. See my preceding posts, noting that the pool, ACCU's, cooktop, wall-mounted oven, the electric clothes dryer are fed from the main panel but the rest of the house and the original garage lighting and power circuits are fed from the original panel, along with all the additions to the house.
The way I see it, if we're going to the trouble of re-feeding the house panel, might as well get as close to 100A feeder as is practical. If his wife and daughter tripped the 50A feeding the house panel running hair dryer(s) for a longer than normal time late at night with not much else going on, he needs more than a little upsizing.
 

letgomywago

Senior Member
Location
Washington state and Oregon coast
Occupation
residential electrician
No, I haven't, and I don't look forward to trying to, what with all the additions he has made that I would have to wade through to discover. See my preceding posts, noting that the pool, ACCU's, cooktop, wall-mounted oven, the electric clothes dryer are fed from the main panel but the rest of the house and the original garage lighting and power circuits are fed from the original panel, along with all the additions to the house.
The way I see it, if we're going to the trouble of re-feeding the house panel, might as well get as close to 100A feeder as is practical. If his wife and daughter tripped the 50A feeding the house panel running hair dryer(s) for a longer than normal time late at night with not much else going on, he needs more than a little upsizing.
Are you sure they didn't have a dead short in a cord melting from a curler I've seen that trip feeder and main breakers before a branch breaker especially an old branch breaker with a new main.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
Are you sure they didn't have a dead short in a cord melting from a curler I've seen that trip feeder and main breakers before a branch breaker especially an old branch breaker with a new main.
I don't know yet. I asked him tonight if any other problems since the trip night before last and he said "no".
The house panel and breakers were replaced ~3 years ago with a larger 125A MLO Square D Homeline panel, and I replaced & moved the Service last fall with all-new copper 200A Service from weatherhead through his ATS, and on to a new Eaton service panel and breakers. I did drop the original house panel feeder breaker size from 60A to 50A because of my concern about the #4 Aluminum feeder, not realizing at the time that it was SE cable and could be used at the 75* rating. I don't trust aluminum and thankfully I rarely see it in a panel on a branch circuit in the field. I will use it for building a Service if forced to, but copper is the only thing for me.
 
Last edited:

letgomywago

Senior Member
Location
Washington state and Oregon coast
Occupation
residential electrician
I don't know yet. I asked him tonight if any other problems since the trip night before last and he said "no".
The house panel and breakers were replaced ~3 years ago with a larger 125A MLO Square D Homeline panel, and I replaced & moved the Service last fall with all-new copper 200A Service from weatherhead through his ATS, and on to a new Eaton service panel and breakers. I did drop the original house panel feeder breaker size from 60A to 50A because of my concern about the #4 Aluminum feeder, not realizing at the time that it was SE cable and could be used at the 75* rating. I don't trust aluminum.
I understand your concern about the conductor sizing and type but from the description of the symptoms and the lack of certain calculations being done before doing a service change concerns me that there might be something else that's the cause of their electrical issues than just old equipment.

Lack of burn conductors would be evidence against too high of current usage so amp clamping would help or at a minimum use a 60 amp breaker and see if that was a solution

If you can check for dead shorts or even a double feed power those sometimes can appear when you rip out double taps and now have 2 circuits on 2 different phases that were on the same one before.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
I understand your concern about the conductor sizing and type but from the description of the symptoms and the lack of certain calculations being done before doing a service change concerns me that there might be something else that's the cause of their electrical issues than just old equipment.

Lack of burn conductors would be evidence against too high of current usage so amp clamping would help or at a minimum use a 60 amp breaker and see if that was a solution

If you can check for dead shorts or even a double feed power those sometimes can appear when you rip out double taps and now have 2 circuits on 2 different phases that were on the same one before.
I haven't been to the house yet, but I'll certainly look closely when I do. I would think they would've said something if the curling iron or hair dryer smoked, and would've tripped the main (or at least a branch breaker) if they used it again. It is possible that they were just skating by with the 60a breaker before I came along and rebuilt the service and installed the house panel feeder on a 50A C.B. But this house has a LOT MORE running on the house panel NOW than it ever did when it was built in 1974.
It could be a load balancing issue or a fluke with the hair dryers on the same phase like you said, and my Flukes can be left recording for a few hours while we run loads in the house.

The feeder to the house panel still needs to be brought up to code regarding no separate neutral and grounds. If I do that, I may as well upsize the feeder while I'm at it. What's a couple hundred more for wire at this point to guarantee no more tripping, more headroom for loads, as well as less voltage drop at the far end of the branch circuits.
At present, due to the existing 3-conducter feeder, the house panel has the grounds all landed with the neutrals as if it is the service panel and not a sub-panel, while the main panel feeding it already has the neutrals and grounds split out in it, with the Generator ATS being the Service OCP/ disconnect and neutral/ground bond and GEC connection made in the ATS.
 
Last edited:

ppsh

Member
Location
CA
Occupation
Electrician
I was involved in a 150 unit 1970s apartment interior panel change out. All zinsco meter packs feeding them. All the inside zinsco panels were the cheapest MLO they could get, die cast zinc lugs and neutral bars. Most of them barely hand tight.

All the units were a 50a breaker on 6al ser, or a 70a breaker on 4al ser. Not one of these showed any signs of overheating or arcing at the terminations. It's a different whole world than the 10-12 ga aluminum nm from that era.
 

GarwoodV6

Member
Location
Houston suburbs
Occupation
30 year commercial Electrician
I was involved in a 150 unit 1970s apartment interior panel change out. All zinsco meter packs feeding them. All the inside zinsco panels were the cheapest MLO they could get, die cast zinc lugs and neutral bars. Most of them barely hand tight.

All the units were a 50a breaker on 6al ser, or a 70a breaker on 4al ser. Not one of these showed any signs of overheating or arcing at the terminations. It's a different whole world than the 10-12 ga aluminum nm from that era.
Ah, Zinsco panels LOL. Replaced a few of them in my day. They like to burn up the bus bars and the breakers. I thought they were aluminum. Maybe it was zinc galvanizing on steel lugs and neutral bars?
 

norcal

Senior Member
Ah, Zinsco panels LOL. Replaced a few of them in my day. They like to burn up the bus bars and the breakers. I thought they were aluminum. Maybe it was zinc galvanizing on steel lugs and neutral bars?
Old Zinsco panels were plated copper, but they also made breakers with "push & pray" terminals. Zinsco plug in 3Ø was a strange beast, 100A plated copper zigzag bus bars covered w/ color coded shrink wrap, the bus stabs were staked into those bars.
 
Top