AFCI Nuisance trip or a real issue

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acrwc10 said:
e your link isn't working. But let me guess what it says ,'' if the vacuum cleaner trips the afci , plug it in somewhere that is not on afci protection"
Yeah pretty much....

Can't get the link to work - But is says:

The issue is limited to a fairly narrow range of vacuum cleaner
models and as such we have begun working with the vacuum
manufacturers affected to ensure that this incompatibility will not
occur on future models. The cause of this situation is being
eliminated in the new designs of both circuit breakers and electronic
controlled vacuums.
"Based on the type and model of Kenmore, Panasonic and Miele
vacuum cleaners, use one of the following procedures:"​

1.

For Uprights:




Start the motor in "HIGH/CARPET" mode prior to lowering the


handle to the cleaning position.
2.​



For Canisters:




Tip the wand assembly back, raising the nozzle off the floor:​



If the unit has a 3 position switch, then start the unit in the


"FLOOR" mode, pause one second, then move to the switch
to "CARPET" mode​


If you have a variable speed model, start in "BARE FLOOR


HIGH" mode, then switch to "CARPET" mode.​


If you have a push button model, start the unit in the "BARE


FLOOR" mode, and then switch to "CARPET" mode.
Lower the nozzle using the handle release button.
3. Plug the vacuum into a different outlet. This may require the
addition of a properly sized (16 gauge or heavier) extension
cord.​


I was pointed to this after calling about a vaccum. Later I had to call about a really big flat screen and the guy on the phone says - "could they get another TV? - That one just won't work on our breakers." - Me thinking it would be cheaper to get another panel.....


 
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e57 said:
Yeah pretty much....

Can't get the link to work - But is says:


I was pointed to this after calling about a vacuum. Later I had to call about a really big flat screen and the guy on the phone says - "could they get another TV? - That one just won't work on our breakers." - Me thinking it would be cheaper to get another panel.....



The problem with the TV is you need to turn it on in high mode then switch it to the carpet channel. Everyone knows that "duh" :grin:
 
I'm confused. If the fault does not occur at less than 170V, why would it have arced or leaked at the 1-2 volts that are usually present between the neutral and the ground. I don't think the problem as described would have tripped an AFCI. Did I miss something?

Mark
 
busman said:
I'm confused. If the fault does not occur at less than 170V, why would it have arced or leaked at the 1-2 volts that are usually present between the neutral and the ground. I don't think the problem as described would have tripped an AFCI. Did I miss something?

Mark
Environmental conditions change, higher resistance corrosion can build, every subsequent arc changes subtle characteristics of the fault, etc.
 
e57 said:
Yeah pretty much....

Can't get the link to work - But is says:


I was pointed to this after calling about a vaccum. Later I had to call about a really big flat screen and the guy on the phone says - "could they get another TV? - That one just won't work on our breakers." - Me thinking it would be cheaper to get another panel.....



Try this link - http://www.snapdrive.net/files/507790/VacuumFAQ0502homeowner.pdf
 
langjahr@comcast.net said:
-Actually, you can find the location within a few inches of an abrupt change in cable properties on an unpowered line using Time Domain Reflectometry. I don't think anyone makes one of these yet for house wiring, but the way things are going, they might soon.
-For this setup you need a reasonably fast scope and a special pulse generator, and they mostly use it to find coaxial cable faults.
-But, I don't know if Romex cable clamps and cabling kinks (both of which change the "characteristic impedance" of the cable) will give you a lot of false readings.

A TDR compared to an Insulation Tester? Man, your wallet must be much fatter than mine,...WOW!!!!!
 
tom baker said:
Fluke makes a combo megger/DVM. I have used the hand cranked type, the Fluke you push a button, I am bit doubtful but it works great. I am going to sell the hand crank "megger" on ebay. I see them there for about $300. The three meters a maint person needs is a DVM, clamp on ammeter and megger.

Megger is a trademark of Biddle, by the way.


What exactly are you doubtful about Tom with your Fluke? What model did you get? I have the 1520 and the 1507 which has PI/DAR function as well as Low's ohm's range for bond measurements. Alot of maintenance personnel love the 1587 for the low-pass feature working on VFD's, temperature, and ACA, but my 87V will handle all of that, and the 1507 is the only model with the PI and DAR function.
 
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