electricguy61
Senior Member
Yup. Got one.
Is there a 3/4 model?
Yup. Got one.
Is there a 3/4 model?
I am with you on this one. Sometimes we craftsmen) tend to get a little too anal. A 1/2" conduit entering the KO nearest the stud strapped 3 feet away from the box is not going to present a "bad" installation. It is easy to pick it apart, but the loss of cosmetics is outweighed by the time saved, and what no one here has mentioned, the reduction in the degrees of bend in the conduit run. Using an offset bender, like the Greenlee, is, to me actually detrimental to a good pipe installation in a wall. Even if you are going to put a box kick in, it should be as long as possible to minimize the bending degrees. A foot long kick is very easy and fogiving in a 1/2" or 3/4" and even a 1" to some extent. Time is money!Yeah, I don't think anyone is talking that extreame.
I am with you on this one. Sometimes we craftsmen) tend to get a little too anal. A 1/2" conduit entering the KO nearest the stud strapped 3 feet away from the box is not going to present a "bad" installation. It is easy to pick it apart, but the loss of cosmetics is outweighed by the time saved, and what no one here has mentioned, the reduction in the degrees of bend in the conduit run. Using an offset bender, like the Greenlee, is, to me actually detrimental to a good pipe installation in a wall. Even if you are going to put a box kick in, it should be as long as possible to minimize the bending degrees. A foot long kick is very easy and fogiving in a 1/2" or 3/4" and even a 1" to some extent. Time is money!
How many of you out there regularly mount raceways on curved surfaces like that of grain storage silos?
Frequent slight bends in raceways is a must on those kind of surfaces. The occasional place where someone did not do so usually has broken fittings everywhere if you come look at it sometime after they are gone. And when you get to a box a regular offset made with an offset bender almost never works. You usually need a custom offset for the application. One bend may be different number of degrees than the other when it fits right.
Grain silos are a whole different animal. It takes a lot of bending and tweeking on my part to get it to lay in there just right. I've come in behind other installations where someone used straps every 3' to suck the pipe in, you can see the bends aren't right and straps bent out from the tension. Box offsets are definitely NOT standard on a silo.
We've done work on conveyors in distribution centers as well, pretty much the same deal on those 90 degree conveyor sections.
In concealed spaces above ceilings behind walls do you guys install box offsets?
Confession time ... I really haven't given much thought to box offsets since I bought that Greenlee offset bender ("squisher") eight years ago. I just put the bend in .... no muss, no fuss.
Sure, the price is scary ... but I don't regret it one bit.
boring a 2-1/2" hole in a 'tilt-up.'.
I'll try 1" to 1.25" on a tilt up because I know I can blow through rebar if I hit it. Any bigger than that and I hire a coring company. But you're right, the jobs you dread don't seem like a big deal anymore when you have the right tools or can hire someone with them.
Please tell me what a "tilt up" is. I hear that term on this forum sometimes but never anywhere else, is it a regional thing?
Tilt up around here refers to a tilt up building. Pre cast concrete wall panels, delivered to
the job site then they tlit them up. They can come with dock doors, man doors already
cut out. Check out your big box store. Wall panels can be 10ft wide & whatever height
you need. You will have a grout joint between every panel. Wired a million sq ft warehouse
in 2009.
And now you know:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRpjTTeEGi0&feature=related
As you can imagine, they have a TON of rebar in them. So making holes in them is NOT fun, unless you wet core.