Built-ins redux

[tallgirl]

This thread got locked before any good answers were given:

Custom furniture

I have a client that has installed custom permanent furniture in their office. Internally they snaked Wires through the various tiers & installed Table lamps(4 looped together ) with zip cord & are plugged into a receptacle I installed underneath. I’m looking at 400.8 to convince the client...

forums.mikeholt.com

Here's another without a lot of answers:

Question

What article(s) of the NEC cover powered furniture, like tables and tool boxes with power strips/built-in receptacles?

forums.mikeholt.com

Here's one for burying a junction box:

Concealing a JB exceptions?

With respect to NEC 314.29, is there a way to conceal a junction box if it doesn't contain a splice? Or is there a product that can make a junction box be considered a raceway? I've seen those plastic sleeves that can guide a wire through a JB when pulling, but something along those lines...

forums.mikeholt.com

Basically, there aren't any threads that cover what I want to do, so I figure I'll describe it and reference some code sections (2017 NEC for Wisconsin). And then there will be a thread.

I want to have a built-in hutch in a piece of wall that's weird-shaped and either needed to be an enclosed void, or I could fill the void with this hutch. I could either do all the construction in-place (then it's not an issue - it's a wall that's shaped like a hutch), but I don't think I can do the cabinetry as nicely - shelves and cabinets with doors - as if I built is separately, then slide it into place and connect the wiring.

The relevant code sections are 210.52 (A) (2) and 314.29 (and maybe 300.4 (D) and 300.23). I can use a 4" recessed LED light (one of the pancake lights) below the junction box in the top of the hutch and a 6" high decorative trim board with screws which are meant to be removed for access. The plan is to use Wiremold (this is for 300.4 (D)) on the outside of the sides of the hutch, with a Wiremold junction box having a receptacle and snap switch for the overhead light. The LED driver will be in the space above the top of the hutch (300.23).

Build all of that in the middle of the floor, do all the wiring before sliding it in place and screwing it to the walls, then connect the wires on the top into junction box in the ceiling, put the LED into the hole for it, put the cover on, and call it good.

How's that sound?

 

[texie]

There are listing standards for wiring in furniture. If what you are proposing is permanently installed and complies with Chapter 3 wiring requirements I don't see an issue.

 

[tallgirl]

There are listing standards for wiring in furniture. If what you are proposing is permanently installed and complies with Chapter 3 wiring requirements I don't see an issue.

The plan is to make it as permanent as possible. I'm not going to shoot framing nails through it. It'll be more like how a large cabinet is installed in place - screwed into studs - then trimmed out on the face with molding.

I did read all of Chapter 3. 314.29 came up every time I searched for burying a junction box. Using a 4" pancake light and that piece of removable trim was the hardest part of figuring it out. I think that's a rather clever hack. Pulling the light down allows the junction box to be accessed straight down, and that piece of trim comes off and gives access from the front.

 

[tom baker]

I used to wire store displays, they used 3/8" metal flex. The flex is small and easy to conceal

 

[hillbilly1]

The plan is to make it as permanent as possible. I'm not going to shoot framing nails through it. It'll be more like how a large cabinet is installed in place - screwed into studs - then trimmed out on the face with molding.

I did read all of Chapter 3. 314.29 came up every time I searched for burying a junction box. Using a 4" pancake light and that piece of removable trim was the hardest part of figuring it out. I think that's a rather clever hack. Pulling the light down allows the junction box to be accessed straight down, and that piece of trim comes off and gives access from the front.

I did something similar this week in a house built in 1936, but using 6” led pancakes in the ceiling. Added five in each room, but the original j box in the center of the room, is one of those 3 1/2” octagon boxes. So nowhere near enough room for all of the existing wires, let alone the feed for the other four lights. Used a deep 1900 box mounted to the upstairs subfloor directly above the pancake fixture. Easy access by just pulling the light out.

 

[tallgirl]

I used to wire store displays, they used 3/8" metal flex. The flex is small and easy to conceal

I went through different wiring methods and Wiremold seemed the easiest to attach to the outside of the hutch and know it was going to stay put. Flex is going to have a minimum bending radius more than I'd like, and NM would require additional physical protection.