Can lights

[kwired]

Had one contractor we did work for that did that, he would shoot a laser to level the ceiling and the shim as needed to get a perfectly level ceiling. Very professional , and very time consuming.

Understandable for something existing that needs some attention, but if for new construction why isn't his ceiling level to start with? Then you have to ask just how much tolerance is acceptable as most of the time it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, just having drywall finished will usually mess with the absolute perfect idea.

 

[iceworm]

X bracing between the joist is often found in homes from the 1930's to 1950's. Engineered joist or 2 X 8, 2 X 10 is what you will find today.

The picture looked like joists on 24" centers, over 16' long. At 16' I would expect 11-7/8 TJI - if longer span = deeper TJIs. I don't see anyone using 2x12s inside. And yes, I would expect either metal x-bracing or blocking on the TJI. I haven't seen much 1x4 x-bracing any more. But that could be cause I'm not in the middle of this any more.

I can't say what was normal in the 1930 - 1950 era. I'm old - but not that old. First I got into it was in the 1960s

ice

 

[iceworm]

Had one contractor we did work for that did that, he would shoot a laser to level the ceiling and the shim as needed to get a perfectly level ceiling. Very professional , and very time consuming.

Understandable for something existing that needs some attention, but if for new construction why isn't his ceiling level to start with? Then you have to ask just how much tolerance is acceptable as most of the time it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, just having drywall finished will usually mess with the absolute perfect idea.

I'd guess the contractor does high end finish (level 5?), minimal to no texture and flat ceiling. I'm at best a medium taper - I really don't like it, I can't do it. However, the ones that I know that can, really take pains to see the finish is dead flat. Any little dip or wave really shows.

ice

 

[HackElectric]

I'd guess the contractor does high end finish (level 5?), minimal to no texture and flat ceiling. I'm at best a medium taper - I really don't like it, I can't do it. However, the ones that I know that can, really take pains to see the finish is dead flat. Any little dip or wave really shows.

ice

We got about 50 trillion houses without strapping that were framed by day laborers, rocked by convicted felons with no where else to work, and taped by drunks. Yet no one notices any problems with the ceilings except for the occasional screw pop.

 

[iceworm]

We got about 50 trillion houses without strapping that were framed by day laborers, rocked by convicted felons with no where else to work, and taped by drunks. Yet no one notices any problems with the ceilings except for the occasional screw pop.

Just curious - What does this have to do with a customer wanting a level 5 finish?

ice

 

[HackElectric]

Just curious - What does this have to do with a customer wanting a level 5 finish?

ice

It doesn't, you're the only person to even mention the DEFCON levels of ceiling flatness.


All the people in New England who have their ceilings strapped are happy with DEFCON Level Orange.

 

[CT Tom]

In my personal experience, your best bet is to stay away from blind drilling. Unless you can 100% guarantee you won't hit something. Since you mention it's a kitchen, can you cut the ceiling above the cabinets and plate or have it patched/repaired as needed? I prepare customers for the potential to have to cut/patch ceiling or walls. Most don't care..as long as you say it before you cut. :rant:

Had something like this come up once, but it was a LV lighting system we were installing. Ceiling was plaster on lath and cutting it was not an option. Had a carpenter pull siding off of the house at all our feed points, and we just cut plywood and drilled/snaked as needed. No damage to the ceiling. Been doing this a lot lately. Got a few jobs that other EC's said cutting sheetrock was the only way. More options=more solutions.

 

[HackElectric]

There's another option that I have done a few times, altho it costs the customer a lot more in extra time that it took me than it would have cost for a pro to come in and patch.

If you have a wall that runs perpendicular to the joists, which you usually do, and a basement underneath, you can drill up from the basement. It takes careful measurements, but you drill up into the wall cavity and then use a long drill bit with an extension on it to drill up thru the top plate of the wall into the joist space. Then you send a fiberglass rod up thru the holes with some bunched up string on the end and from the first high hat hole you send in a snake with a hook at the end.

You need to repeat this for every row of high hats, but it works when the customer absolutely doesn't want holes.

 

[iceworm]

It doesn't, you're the only person to even mention the DEFCON levels of ceiling flatness.


All the people in New England who have their ceilings strapped are happy with DEFCON Level Orange.

Didn't know that. But that's okay. I don't live anywhere near mainstream America. This would be only one of many things where I am clueless.

Note to AP wire:
News Flash to Continental US - Americans building homes or remodeling can now specify standardized levels of sheetrock finish, L1 (fire taped) through L5 (flat wall). Remember, if it is available North of the 65th parallel, it's probably available South of the 48th parallel.

ice

 

[HackElectric]

Can someone get me an L17 on the 106th parallel? Thanks breaker 1-9.

 

[iceworm]

Can someone get me an L17 on the 106th parallel? Thanks breaker 1-9.

Absolutely. However we will need an immediate, substantual, cash, non-refundable deposit. Waiting list is about 20 years. We will confirmed your place in line 15 years after receipt of deposit.

Miracles R Us