can lights

[steve66]

Re: can lights

I recently recomended Juno to a client because they had some nice looking track lights. Big mistake.

The Juno rep told my client that I screwed up because I didn't provide 150VA for every 2 feet of track Therefore, they had to buy the super efficient, super expensive fixtures that wouldn't work with the dimmer system that was already installed

Last time I ever have anything to do with Juno.

Steve

 

[tom baker]

Re: can lights

"The Juno rep told my client that I screwed up because I didn't provide 150VA for every 2 feet of track "
Thats only required in the load calc. You can put as many feet of track on a circuit as you want.
Have the Juno rep show you where his statement is in the NEC, for installation.

 

[physis]

Re: can lights

It's not good when a salesman get's in the middle of something they don't actually understand. I'm curious why he or she ended up getting involved in that end of it.

I'd be upset about it too but I still like Juno.

 

[luke warmwater]

Re: can lights

I would much rather install Progress than Juno.

We have a job where the HO wanted Juno, so he had to supply them (we will install them, but not supply or guarantee them).
We powered up some circuts, and even with no trims installed and 60 watt bulbs, the thermals keep cutting out. It looks like a disco show!

On the other hand, there will absolutely not be any Halo or Commercial Electric junk even given a chance on any of our jobs. The trims don't sit right. They are also not Air Tight. The legs are super flimsy, which takes longer to install.

Pay a little more up front for quality, and it will pay off in the end.

 

[JohnE]

Re: can lights

I only remember 1 thermal cutout failing ever and have installed thousands of Juno cans. One interesting note about juno cans. In our area, ceilings are "strapped". ie furring strips 1"x3" perpindicular to joists 16" oc. Juno is the only can I've seen where hanging bars readily fit between strapping that is 13.5". So, to install some other cans, you have to fasten to joists and lower housing 3/4". Some - like halo- you can just nail to joists because mounting tab allow you to lower entire can to be flush with finished ceiling. Others can be a real pain.

John

 

[JohnE]

Re: can lights

To answer the original question, "blue" connectors and wirenuts. Hate the quick connects. Hate the built in connectors.


John

 

[physis]

Re: can lights

Todd are you using non-reflector bulbs in a can that isn't made for them? I like when the thermal does what it's supposed to.

 

[aelectricalman]

Re: can lights

First of all, I never stated that it was not a 1 man job. Reread my statement. "More of a one man job." I did not say it makes it a one man job. I simply implied that at first it was a 1 man job, but with these it is more of a 1 man job. Secondly, I if you ever have to move one of those fixtures you speak of, the tabs bend and become hell after a couple moves. Thirdly, I was actually making the comparasion to the ones without the tabs. I hate the tabs, and think its a bad idea of a design. With nails, its just easier to use. I think anyone who has used the two and actually compared, will agree.

Originally posted by aelectricalman:
Thomas Lighting and Elco, are hands down the best for contractors. Both have quick release retrators for adjustments and require no wirenuts. Also, they have nails already attached to the fixture so it becomes more of a 1 man job. Its kinda hard to hold the fixture, hold the nail to the 2 X 10 and hold a hammer at one time. Amen.

 

[cselectric]

Re: can lights

I hate the tabs, and think its a bad idea of a design. With nails, its just easier to use. I think anyone who has used the two and actually compared, will agree.
[/QB]

Actually, I hate both. The tabs I can take or leave. The nails are totally uselss as they do not have a phillips head and therefore cannot be shot in with my cordless. Of course, if I'm doing housing it is surely in N. IL and always in pipe. I don't even carry a hammer when boxing up (if you can't screw it, screw it.) Yes, I realize that is a unique and rare situation, but a valid opinion all the same.

BTW, I believe that Juno was the first to market the capive nails, somwhere about 15-20 years ago.

 

[LarryFine]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by aelectricalman:
First of all, I never stated that it was not a 1 man job. Reread my statement. "More of a one man job." I did not say it makes it a one man job. I simply implied that at first it was a 1 man job, but with these it is more of a 1 man job. Secondly, I if you ever have to move one of those fixtures you speak of, the tabs bend and become hell after a couple moves. Thirdly, I was actually making the comparasion to the ones without the tabs. I hate the tabs, and think its a bad idea of a design. With nails, its just easier to use. I think anyone who has used the two and actually compared, will agree.

Originally posted by aelectricalman:
Thomas Lighting and Elco, are hands down the best for contractors. Both have quick release retrators for adjustments and require no wirenuts. Also, they have nails already attached to the fixture so it becomes more of a 1 man job. Its kinda hard to hold the fixture, hold the nail to the 2 X 10 and hold a hammer at one time. Amen.

Well, okay this time.

 

[luke warmwater]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by physis:
Todd are you using non-reflector bulbs in a can that isn't made for them? I like when the thermal does what it's supposed to.

Don't know, my guys told me. They could have used 60watt A bulbs for temp. Which i would agree, they're not reflective.

But I still prefer Progress to Jumo. I also prefer Lightolier to Juno, but there's more work involved with them.

 

[wayne123]

Re: can lights

HALO, without a doubt. Just put in the new ones. THEY HAVE A NAIL IN THE BRACKETS NOW TO MOUNT THEM!! The quick connects in them are a good idea but I just don't trust them so I make them up with wirenuts.

 

[JohnE]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by luke warmwater:

But I still prefer Progress to Jumo. I also prefer Lightolier to Juno, but there's more work involved with them.

I hate lightolier so much that on a recent remodel quote which included approx. 12 lightolier cans per specs, I offered a $500.00 savings to substitute Juno. Translation - $500.00 more for lightolier. I would use halo, progress, and some others if they were spec'd for same price as juno.

John

 

[George Stolz]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by cselectric:
The nails are totally uselss as they do not have a phillips head and therefore cannot be shot in with my cordless.
...

I don't even carry a hammer when boxing up (if you can't screw it, screw it.)

That's just weird.

[ August 10, 2005, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: georgestolz ]

 

[davedottcom]

Re: can lights

"I don't even carry a hammer when boxing up"

How the heck do you know how high to mount your receptacle boxes?!?!


Dave

 

[George Stolz]

Re: can lights

No kidding!

 

[davedottcom]

Re: can lights

George, so is mine...we would get along just fine on a rough!

 

[iwire]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by georgestolz:
No kidding!

What do use for switches?

 

[davedottcom]

Re: can lights

Originally posted by iwire:
What do use for switches?

A 4 ft. ladder, what else?

 

[georgeswe]

Re: can lights

Just so you know when you look to price fixtures make sure you also look into the trims because thats where they get ya. In some cases you get the cans for 10-15 dollars and pay 50 + for the trim be careful not to screw yourself )