Can someone recommend a leakage tester?

[Todd0x1]

You can disconnect the electronics or disconnect the heating element and only meg the components you are comfortable testing in this way. The element that doesn't fault until it is hot still may fail when subjected to the higher test voltage of a megger.

This is portable 'temporary' applications. Can't start disassembling and troubleshooting some party rental company's appliances. I just need a tester to plug inline between the GFCI and appliance with a display I can point to that says BAD on it.

 

[TwoBlocked]

alot of stuff these days has a switching power supply connected directly to the mains input. Putting 1000vdc to that is not ideal

Of course not. Use an appropriate scale like 100V or 250V.

 

[Joethemechanic]

Make up a box full of nothing with a receptacle and colored indicator lights. Make it so you can make whatever light you want will light up. Plug the appliance into the box and make the "BAD" light come on. Connect a known good appliance and make the "GOOD" light come on. Maybe add a piezo buzzer.

Do you really think the Oompa Loompas from the party rental place are smart enough to figure it out?

 

[zbang]

I just need a tester to plug inline between the GFCI and appliance with a display I can point to that says BAD on it.

Elsewhere, it's called a "portable appliance tester" (PAT tester). Problem is that since the US doesn't require periodic testing like some other countries, they're not generally sold here, or not sold here with only a three-digit price tag (Megger and Fluke both make them....$2500.....) Maybe on ebay?

Search pat tester and see what comes up.

 

[kwired]

This is portable 'temporary' applications. Can't start disassembling and troubleshooting some party rental company's appliances. I just need a tester to plug inline between the GFCI and appliance with a display I can point to that says BAD on it.

For rental equipment just plug into another GFCI, and another and so forth, chances are if they all trip you can be assured the rental equipment has something wrong with it.

Another trick that is even simpler, plug in the item in question via a two to three prong adapter, if that lets the GFCI hold it is because you interrupted the fault return path.

As far as the switching power supply, if you are testing for a ground fault you shouldn't be testing from hot to neutral you should be testing from hot to ground and neutral to ground neither of which will put the test volts directly across the power supply input, if there is nothing wrong with it anyway.