Carlon B108B single Gang Shallow box

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Does anyone see a problem with this box?
 
peter d said:
Assuming I just spent big bucks to get my basement finished, and that is the final result, then yeah, it looks horrible.
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Fair enough.... Now... if you have no depth to play with, what do you do?
 
stickboy1375 said:
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Does anyone see a problem with this box?
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Typically you will be able to use the extra capacity of the luminaire canopy in conjuntion with the outlet box to provide adeaquate space for the conductors. (See 410.10)

Chris
 
infinity said:
H 2.25
N 2.25
G 2.25
Device (2*2.25) = 4.5

Total 11.25
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Thanks. I didn't realize that devices were double.


I was taught decades ago that the grounds combined were counted as 1 cu inch. Old wives tale or code change?
 
220/221 said:
Thanks. I didn't realize that devices were double.

I was taught decades ago that the grounds combined were counted as 1 cu inch. Old wives tale or code change?
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Yes, a device counts as two of the largest conductor attached to it.

The EGC's combine as one of the largest conductor in the bundle.
 
raider1 said:
Typically you will be able to use the extra capacity of the luminaire canopy in conjuntion with the outlet box to provide adeaquate space for the conductors. (See 410.10)

Chris
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The way I read 410.10, is that it is for fixture wires only not branch circuit conductors... am I wrong to believe this? Probably why this box has no UL marking...
 
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220/221 said:
Thanks. I didn't realize that devices were double.


I was taught decades ago that the grounds combined were counted as 1 cu inch. Old wives tale or code change?
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1 Cu in? I never heard that one. The one conductor deduction for an EGC exists back to the 1987 NEC which is the oldest book I have.
 
stickboy1375 said:
The way I read 410.10, is that it is for fixture wires only not branch circuit conductors... am I wrong to believe this? Probably why this box has no UL marking...
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Many luminaire canopies are marked with the voulme in cubic inches somewhere on the fixture. You are able to use the combine cubic inches of the canopy and the outlet box for you supply conductors and the fixture wires and mounting hardware.

Take a look at 314.16(A). This section states that the volume of a wiring enclosure shall be the total volume of the assembled sections and, where used, the space provided by plaster rings, domed covers, extention rings, and so forth, that are marked with their volume.

I would say that a fixture canopy that is marked with its volume would apply to this section.

Chris
 
tallguy said:
For those who aren't willing to pay for this... I rest my case. :roll:
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Then they get that eyesore. Or double up on the furring strips.

Beauty ain't cheap!. :grin:
 
raider1 said:
Many luminaire canopies are marked with the voulme in cubic inches somewhere on the fixture. You are able to use the combine cubic inches of the canopy and the outlet box for you supply conductors and the fixture wires and mounting hardware.

Take a look at 314.16(A). This section states that the volume of a wiring enclosure shall be the total volume of the assembled sections and, where used, the space provided by plaster rings, domed covers, extention rings, and so forth, that are marked with their volume.

I would say that a fixture canopy that is marked with its volume would apply to this section.

Chris
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Thanks Chris...
 
lilg1964 said:
I am building a room addition with concrete walls furred out with 3/4" foam insulation and have installed the B108B boxes due to the depth without breaking the concrete for the outlets. ...Has anyone used these boxes before?? I'd appreciate any help I can get.
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You might want to look at this to see if any creative juices start to flow, and good luck.

Here is the link--- go to page 6 (8 of 22). The part # is B117RSW
http://carlon.com/Master%20Catalog/Zip%20Boxes_2B1.pdf
 
One more idea: Use an illegally-shallow, but otherwise-legal box, secured with Madison strips, and add a Wiremold extension box, the kind with the rectangular cutout in the back. It's a bit shallower than the standard box.

If it were me, however, I'd break out the Bosch SDS-Max. I'd start with a smaller drill bit (say 3/4") to make the corners as well as a couple of holes in the middle, then switch over to the chisel bit without rotation to shape the cavity.

But, that's me. I like to make every retro-fit look original, such as matching existing box heights, device and plate colors, layout patterns, flush-mounting, etc.
 
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