ceiling fan screws

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LarryFine said:
That's not difficult. Just have the conversation before you price the job, remove the switch plate to look, and charge for the extra work.

If the hot was fed to the switch, just move the receptacle's leg over; if fed at the receptacle, open that box and rewire so the loop is now a feed.

In either case, I always run a 3-conductor cable to the fan box whether I install one switch, two switches, or a fan/light controller.

3 wire is no longer necessary...they now make in-wall remote kits...no batteries needed and simply replace the existing switch. Let's you control the fan and the light...much quicker than running a new wire..
 
emahler said:
3 wire is no longer necessary...they now make in-wall remote kits...no batteries needed and simply replace the existing switch. Let's you control the fan and the light...much quicker than running a new wire..

That's fine if the fan is the remote type, or a remote kit is wanted and added, and if there already is a ceiling box.
 
Vinniem said:
Hey Celtic, does your method work well when you have to remove a ceiling fan? (leave the blades on)

ABSOLUTELY.

That is where I got the idea to do the "reverse" :D

The bonus on removal is (usually :roll: ) you don't even have to be careful...light kit and all.
 
Ceiling fan blades

Ceiling fan blades

What I'd like to know is how do you adjust the fan from wobblimg? I've tried the weight kits, re-arranging the blades, re-tighting the fan, but nothing seems to work. The secret must have disappeared with the pyramid builders.
 
sstaley said:
What I'd like to know is how do you adjust the fan from wobblimg? I've tried the weight kits, re-arranging the blades, re-tighting the fan, but nothing seems to work. The secret must have disappeared with the pyramid builders.
Avoid cheap "Hampton Bay" (or similar) CF's.

I just installed 6 Hunter CFs...of which only 1 was ceiling mounted (others on down rods). Not a single one required any adjustments for balancing.

23262.jpg

Eclipse

This model uses the "standard" "ball and cup" hanging system.

I put a Hunter CF in my kid's room that uses a "triangulated" hanging system....virtually impossible for the fan to "wobble".
Hunter calls it "WobbleFree? Canopy" and it lives up to the name :)
 
sstaley said:
What I'd like to know is how do you adjust the fan from wobblimg? I've tried the weight kits, re-arranging the blades, re-tighting the fan, but nothing seems to work. The secret must have disappeared with the pyramid builders.

What is wobbling... the fan or the box? Seems like many wobbles I've seen are not the fan at all, but rather a non-fan rated box or a box which is not properly secured to the framing. You can fiddle with the fan all day in those situations and it's not going to make a difference.
 
sstaley said:
What I'd like to know is how do you adjust the fan from wobblimg? I've tried the weight kits, re-arranging the blades, re-tighting the fan, but nothing seems to work. The secret must have disappeared with the pyramid builders.

Celtic had no problems and I have had many problems with the Hunter. HO bought a Hampton Bay Fan and it worked beautifully except he bought a 42" Fan and decided he needed a 52" ( I suggested that before I installed the 42") . Anyway he came back with a Hunter and I said I hope this doesn't wobble--- sure enough it did. I have not had much luck with some of the Hunters.

The weight kit that came with the fan work perfectly. We had a pretty big wobble and I got it to hardly no wobble at all.

The trick to the weight kit is to make sure you put the temp weight on the leading edge of the blade about halfway down. Do all 5 blades and see which blade wobbled the least. I marked the top sides as I did this.

Once you have the correct blade move the weight all the way out to the tip. Then again all the way to the base of the blade. See which wobbles the least. If it wobbled less toward the end of the blade then work from the middle to the end to see where the best spot is.

Once you have the spot put the weight on top of the blade halfway across at the spot where the wobble was eliminated (Hopefully).

I must add that it was the first time I had luck with the weight kit but I never used them much.
 
I have de-wobbled many fans, and rarely have I needed to use a balancing weight. In my opinion, the very first step in balancing a fan is to make sure every blade is in the same plane. In other words, make sure the tips of the blades are equidistant from the ceiling.

I spin the fan by hand, slower than low-speed, and make mental note by saying, for example, "up, middle, middle, down, middle," and then firmly bend each offending bracket by gripping the blade and bracket together and bending past level just enough to spring to level.

Also, any blade with more or less pitch than the others will cause a wobble that worsens with speed, as its "lift", or its pressure against the air, is different from the others. Obviously, this is usually more of an issue with existing fans than new ones, but check for it.

I once de-wobbled a four-bladed fan that three other guys could not, because I discovered that one blade had been knocked out of its 90-degree position because the bracket was bent side-ways, still within the plane of the other blades. In other words, symmetry is key.
 
The balance kits that come with the fans sometime take quite a while to balance them. It's not a 60-second fix. I've spent up to an hour getting a fan balanced. So it takes a lot a patience. Sometimes you need more than the 2 or 3 wieghts that come in the kit, so I keep all the ones I don't use.
 
sstaley said:
What I'd like to know is how do you adjust the fan from wobblimg? I've tried the weight kits, re-arranging the blades, re-tighting the fan, but nothing seems to work. The secret must have disappeared with the pyramid builders.

The longer the down rod, the more visible wobble. I seem to recall reading in some fans instructions that rods longer than 18" would have at least a little wobble.
 
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