hillbilly1
Senior Member
- Location
- North Georgia mountains
- Occupation
- Owner/electrical contractor
So getting back to what the op wanted to do, an off delay timer set at around 45 seconds, with a contact replacing the start button should work.
That's what I said back in Post #17...I figured it out, PS1 is a over pressure switch on the reverse stroke, when the start button is pressed, MS closes, but it is still in reverse mode, while the start button is keeping MS engaged, PS1 changes state, flipping it to forward mode, PS1 drops back out, maintaining MS even though the start button is no longer pressed, once T1 times out, the reverse solenoid is energized, but because it is not under load, PS1 does not change states until the ram is fully retracted. Once it is retracted, the pressure jumps up changing the state of PS1, dropping out MS because the start button is not closed.
.... Looks like R1 energized-deenergized controls forward and reverse solenoids, respectively... but there are no travel limit switches involved... only pressure switches... so would need to know their location on hydraulics. Currently assuming PS2 and PS3 on ram-forward line and PS1 on ram-return line.
Now I'm having a problem with that. The OP'er said in the other forum that if the start button is held in, at the end of forward travel the ram reverses, then immediately goes back to forward direction...So getting back to what the op wanted to do, an off delay timer set at around 45 seconds, with a contact replacing the start button should work.![]()
Now I'm having a problem with that. The OP'er said in the other forum that if the start button is held in, at the end of forward travel the ram reverses, then immediately goes back to forward direction...
That's what I said back in Post #17......and probably the case.
Here's a link to the statement (post #15) in the other forum...I keep looking at it, and I can't figure out why it would, also my timer would have to be longer than 45 seconds because I would have to include return travel time also. It should compress, return, compress again if the button is held in. T1 clears the holding contact on R1, so there shouldn't be a backfeed problem.
No... what I quoted is from this thread, at the end of Post #17...It's actually post #34, I was looking back at your drawing again, and just re-read what you posted.
I used PicoSoft 6 for this but it should work with PicoSoft 3 which is free.
I01 is an input from the load side of the Start button
I02 is an input from the line side of the start button.
Q1 contacts energize an additional control relay that has NC contacts in series with the CR2 coil but not the 100% indicating light. This allows the 100% light to come on at each cycle.
I03 is on the load side of the 100% pressure switch
Pressing the Start button begins the sequence but is then disabled for two more cycles
The 100% switch advances the counter each time it closes. After 3 cycles the counter and latched output are reset allowing R2 to open the circuit in normal fashion.
Pressing the Stop or Locking out the key switch will Stop the sequence and also reset the Counter and Latched relay.
View attachment 7923
All standard disclaimers apply as well as any others that I or any other person can possibly think of. It is also worth what you have paid.
I used PicoSoft 6 for this but it should work with PicoSoft 3 which is free.
I01 is an input from the load side of the Start button
I02 is an input from the line side of the start button.
Q1 contacts parallel S/R
I03 is an input from the line side of the FWD solinoid .
Pressing the Start button begins the sequence but is then disabled (ignored) for two more cycles
I03 advances the counter each time the FWD is energized. After 3 cycles the counter and latched output are reset
The control cycle stops when PS1 increases to setpoint.
Pressing the Stop or Locking out the key switch will Stop the sequence and also reset the Counter and Latched relay.
,,,,,,,,,and now if you get that all straightened out as to functionality and it has run thru a complete cycle where PS2 has reached it's set point,turned on the 100% light, sealed itself in and dropped MS out,,,,,,,,you now have to toggle the "Key" switch manually to reset R2 & R3 before beginning the next needed cycle. Who knows how this hardware all works,,,is it plain vanilla or smart stuff?
I don't like the system schematic at allYea I know, it is what it is but all paramaters need to be known when attempting to modify.I agree as others have said,the modification is doable but not a good idea.You got to dance with who brung ya.
dick
You're not trying hard enough...Thanks for all the responses sorry I have not been commenting. I live in Louisiana and I have been dealing with some flooding from all the rain. I will try to coment later today.