Commercial oven disconnect

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goldstar

goldstar

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
The other day I was working with a friend of mine (also an electrical contractor) at a remodeled residence and we were installing wiring for the kitchen. When it came to wiring for the range/oven (either a Garland or a Viking commercial range/oven) he installed an 8/3 MC cable and just left the whip. So I asked whether he was going to install a 50 amp range receptacle and provide a cord for the appliance. His response was "No, I've always wired them direct and never had a problem."

I'm not certain how to interpret section 422 III of the NEC for this. My reasoning for always using a cord and plug is based on how the manufacturer designs the unit. Most of the ones I've seen don't provide a means of landing #8 stranded wire. They usually have a threaded stud where the internal wiring is landed via Sta-con type connectors and a captive nut to secure the wires. The range cord is perfect for this appliacation IMHO.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil
Gold Star Electric
New Jersey
 
goldstar said:
(either a Garland or a Viking commercial range/oven)
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First if this unit is really a commercial unit it can not be placed in a dwelling unit.

It might be a household unit made to look commercial.

The problem is commercial ranges are not made to be in contact with combustible cabinets.

Anyway....

If you hard wire it you would need to provide a breaker lock at the supply or a disconect within sight.

As far as the connection to the 'studs' you could use foot lugs to do it.
 
infinity said:
What do you mean by he just " left the whip"?
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It was just a rough-in and we left the whip coming out of the floor near the back wall behind the range.

iwire said:
It might be a household unit made to look commercial.
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Probably what it is Bob. You know Viking and Garland make some nice looking units that are typically referred to as commercial range/ovens but, in fact, are commercial looking but designed for residential use.

iwire said:
If you hard wire it you would need to provide a breaker lock at the supply or a disconect within sight.

As far as the connection to the 'studs' you could use foot lugs to do it.
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OK. So, here's my point : Obviously he is not going to provide a disconnect switch within sight in a newly remodeled kitchen. So, the alternatives are to go with the direct wire, foot lugs and a breaker lock or a cord and plug. But, isn't the cord and plug an acceptable disconnect means and a much neater installation ?
 
goldstar said:
But, isn't the cord and plug an acceptable disconnect means and a much neater installation ?
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It is to me. :smile:

But even including a breaker lock and foot lugs direct wire is probably cheaper and faster than a cord and plug.
 
422.33(B) Connection at the Rear Base of a Range. For cord-and-plug-connected household electric ranges, an attachment plug and receptacle connection at the rear base of a range, if it is accessible from the front by removal of a drawer, shall be considered as meeting the intent of 422.33(A).

The cord and plug is acceptable only if the drawer is removable.
 
Thanks Phil, I asked because I once saw a wall oven with a manufactured whip that was removed by an electrician and had a cord and plug installed in it's place. The whip had high temperature conductors and terminated within the oven with torx head screws. (Should have been an indication that it wasn't supposed to be removed). IMO this violated the warranty and was potentially dangerous since the cord had much lower temperature conductors than the original whip.
 
Mike is correct. The plug and receptacle must be accessible in order to qualify as the disconnect.
 
electric said:
The cord and plug is acceptable only if the drawer is removable.
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Not so fast Mike, that is an overstatement. :smile:

You can always use a cord and plug.

If the drawer is not removable you would have to provide anther disconnecting means as in a breaker lock.

Of course kind of a moot point.....I have never seen an electric range that did not have a removable drawer. :cool:
 
LarryFine said:
Partially correct or partially removable? :-? :smile:
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Partially correct.

IMO Mike's post...

The cord and plug is acceptable only if the drawer is removable.
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.....made it sound like a cord and plug always has to be accesable.....it does not.

Unless as you pointed out you want it to qualify as the disconnecting means. :)
 
iwire said:
Partially correct.

IMO Mike's post...



.....made it sound like a cord and plug always has to be accesable.....it does not.

Unless as you pointed out you want it to qualify as the disconnecting means. :)
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Here I agree with Bob that this only applies when the cord and plug is being used for the disconnecting means.

Yes there are several manufactures of ranges that the bottom drawer is not removable and a few that don?t have a drawer at all.
 
jwelectric said:
Yes there are several manufactures of ranges that the bottom drawer is not removable and a few that don?t have a drawer at all.
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Those would be gas ranges.

I will be willing to eat crow if someone can link to a drawer-less electric household range. :)
 
CROW KABOBS


Ingredients
16 pieces of crow breast meat (no bones) (8 crows)
16 pieces of green pepper
16 cherry tomatoes
8 button mushrooms
8 ears of sweet corn
1 1/2 cups of Teriyaki sauce
1/2 cup melted butter
8 kabob skewers
Preparation
Cut each piece of crow in half and place in a covered bowl with the Teriyaki sauce over night. Clean and cut each ear of corn into 3 pieces. Cook in boiling salt water for 10 minutes. Alternately put corn (3 pieces), green peppers (3 pieces) and cherry tomatoes (3) along with 4 pieces of crow meat on each skewer. Use 1 mushroom to top each skewer. Brush with melted butter and place on preheated grill for about 4 minutes. Flip, butter again and place back on grill for another 4 minutes. Repeat one last time for a total of 12 minutes or until they appear done. Serves four adults.
 
iwire said:
Partially correct.

.....made it sound like a cord and plug always has to be accesable.....it does not.

If that cord and plug is not accessible and doesn't qualify as the disconnect, wouldn't that make it part of the "fixed wiring of the structure" and subject to 400.8(A)?
Just curious
steve
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hillbilly said:
iwire said:
If that cord and plug is not accessible and doesn't qualify as the disconnect, wouldn't that make it part of the "fixed wiring of the structure" and subject to 400.8(A)?
Just curious
steve
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IMO no.

My table lamp plugs in behind the couch does that make the cord part of the fixed wiring of the structure?
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drawerless01.jpg


This range does not have a bottom drawer. It works real well for cooking crow either baked, broiled, fried, boiled or with dumplings. lol
 
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