cook top

[Dennis Alwon]

Just wondering if have been living in the dark ages. I work in an area that I have to keep up with 2005-2014 codes in different municipalities. I was turned down for the first time today for running a 6/2wg to a cook-top that is only rated 240v. Blk Wht and bare ground from the cook-top. Inspector says the feeder has to be a 4-wire. Can someone tell me where in the code I can find this requirement.

Thx

If the cooktop is rated 240v and not 240/120 then the inspector is incorrect. The code requires a separate equipment grounding conductor and neutral if a neutral is required. In the old days we could use the equipment grounding conductor as the equipment grounding conductor and neutral-- that is not allowed any more.

 

[silver hair]

It is rated 240 NOT 240/120
Thought I was going nuts

Thanks for the reply

 

[kwired]

Might want to have that inspector actually cite you the section he thinks you have violated.

Many places if they are going to make you change something they do have to cite the code/section that is in violation. He isn't going to find one that you can't challenge unless there is some local code that requires what he is asking for.

 

[user 100]

Might want to have that inspector actually cite you the section he thinks you have violated.

Many places if they are going to make you change something they do have to cite the code/section that is in violation. He isn't going to find one that you can't challenge unless there is some local code that requires what he is asking for.

:thumbsup: Ditto. The op shouldn't have to change anything barring local amendments.

 

[DrSparks]

I use aluminum SER for ranges and cooktops, so cost is negligible to me ;-)

 

[user 100]

I use aluminum SER for ranges and cooktops, so cost is negligible to me ;-)

I see your point and sometimes we should let these things go if the inspectors request is cost neutral or less and it won't take a lot of time to change something. But otoh, the ops issue seems a little different-He should demand a code reference- the inspector is wrong.

 

[DrSparks]

and I would never use #6 alum as a branch circuit conductor...

Your reasoning?

 

[kwired]

I see your point and sometimes we should let these things go if the inspectors request is cost neutral or less and it won't take a lot of time to change something. But otoh, the ops issue seems a little different-He should demand a code reference- the inspector is wrong.

I agree, cost has nothing to do with the violation/non violation in question, OP could have easily run a two wire with ground aluminum cable and still had same issue with inspector.

 

[DrSparks]

I agree, cost has nothing to do with the violation/non violation in question, OP could have easily run a two wire with ground aluminum cable and still had same issue with inspector.

Someone mentioned something about cost being an issue, so I was just interjecting. I agree, however, that the inspector is wrong. Why run a neutral to a device that doesn't require one? Do we run neutrals to water heaters and AC condensers? :lol:

 

[iwire]

I tend to think that the wire size should match the breakersize upto the appliance.
Back to dwelling wire size matching the breaker...
If half the appliance is located a sizable distance away from the first half, then a sizable portion/length of wire is subject to physical damage or a direct short in the second half appliance. If a direct short occurs on a 12ga wire protected by 50 amp breaker, then the 12ga wire may become a runaway heating element inside a dwelling wall.

The code allows and I bet you have used a 10 AWG EGC for a 60 amp breaker, or a 8 AWG for a 100 amp breaker.


A 12 AWG will trip a 50 amp breaker.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Someone mentioned something about cost being an issue, so I was just interjecting. I agree, however, that the inspector is wrong. Why run a neutral to a device that doesn't require one? Do we run neutrals to water heaters and AC condensers? :lol:

No we don't run a neutral to water heaters or a/c but a range can easily be changed for one that requires a 4 wire connection. Then the issue becomes do we run a #6 or a #8 cable. You can spend a lot of money on what if's.

IMO, if it would be very difficult to add a 4 wire circuit later then I would probably run a 4 wire circuit now. Not code, but we do very custom homes and I would want to cover that base. Often times the unit that may have been speced is not what comes in so unless I can easily add that circuit then I would run a 4 wire to it.