jumper
Senior Member
- Location
- 3 Hr 2 Min from Winged Horses
In that case, I definitely withdraw my statement about being quicker with a porta-band. I was thinking a hand held cutter.:ashamed1:
No way I can compete with a beast like that.
Cutting Rigid metal conduit.
- Thread starter arnettda
- Start date
- Status
In that case, I definitely withdraw my statement about being quicker with a porta-band. I was thinking a hand held cutter.:ashamed1:
No way I can compete with a beast like that.
jumper
Senior Member
- Location
- 3 Hr 2 Min from Winged Horses
To use an angle grinder? I gotta be misunderstanding something.
- Location
- Massachusetts
Hot work to OSHA is flames and sparks, not electrical.
On many jobs any tool that makes sparks or flames needs a hot work permit each day.
https://ohsonline.com/Articles/2008/12/Hot-Work-Right.aspx
Johnnybob
Senior Member
- Location
- Colville, WA
Which requires a fire-watch
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
For a large amount of RMC you should have the threading machine that Bob posted AND a Rigid 700. Anything that can fit in the threading machine goes in it where is cuts, threads and oils very quickly. Short elbows or threads near bends get done with a pony. A pony with a band saw or Sawzall is way too slow for running large amounts of RMC even if it's only 3/4".
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
That is another tool I really try to avoid. It is a very rare case when you really need one. You can cut and thread the conduit before you bend it for the very short lengths. It seems every time I had one on the job along with a 300, productivity went down.
- Location
- Massachusetts
Johnnybob
Senior Member
- Location
- Colville, WA
That's the way I learned, add the shrink for your offsets, subtract the gain on the 90's, cut it, thread it, then bend it! Just a little extra number grinding saves alot of hand treading
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
There is always a few inches before the start of the elbow bend that can be removed and re-threaded when you need a very short 90°. For that the 700 is great. Also at times shortening offsets by cutting/threading requires a threading method that does not rotate the conduit.
- Location
- Illinois
- Occupation
- retired electrician
My experience was that the electricians always wanted to make conduit with multiple bends when I had a pony on the job....work that took much longer than the same pipe installed in more than one piece using the 300 threader. So I did not keep a pony on the job. Once in a great while there would be an application where that was the only possible choice, but that was very rare.
JFletcher
Senior Member
- Location
- Williamsburg, VA
Would powder and gas actuated (Ramset, Passload) guns require hotworks as well?
- Location
- Massachusetts
JFletcher
Senior Member
- Location
- Williamsburg, VA
The plants I used to work at had HW permits issued all the time, but I dont recall one for a tool like I described. I would think anything capable of sparks would need one. I've used a Hilti DX 351 on commercial sites, never had to get a permit, I just made sure I had the proper safety gear and notified trades on that floor I was operating a gun. I dunno if it's required, but I kept a 20' 'exclusion zone' when shooting it so any busted concrete chunks or pin blow-outs/ricochets wouldnt be a danger to other workers.
wallyworld
Senior Member
This will cut a piece of 3/4 rigid faster than anything I've seen and the battery lasts most of the day in my experience
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/0740-22
I've had one for years, blades last fairly long also
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/0740-22
I've had one for years, blades last fairly long also
Fulthrotl
~Autocorrect is My Worst Enema.~
- Occupation
- E
it won't make a difference.
if you are using a porta pony, the die will self guide just fine.
what i found was a lot more versatile (and cheaper) than a
tri stand is a jawhorse, made by rockwell.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK9003-JawHorse-Material-Support/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=dp_ob_title_hi
as far as cutting GRC, the milwualkee porta band is my odds on favorite for cutting
most everything. the 18 volt one cuts 4" GRC faster than the corded one. go figure.
Cow
Senior Member
- Location
- Eastern Oregon
- Occupation
- Electrician
I'm curious, do you allow them to cut strut with a portaband or do you require them to use a chop saw or shear for a perfectly square cut also?
Our small project setup is a corded portaband(either Milwaukee or Dewalt, we have both), tristand, pony, and an oil bucket. We have a reamer also, but it's quicker and easier for jobs using smaller conduit to just use a cordless drill and unibit for reaming.
We've been doing quite a bit of rigid for the last year or so on projects, so we're definitely trying to get our process as streamlined as possible. The Makita LC1230 we picked up a few months ago works great for cutting mild steel strut as well. Stainless strut....not so much.
Cow
Senior Member
- Location
- Eastern Oregon
- Occupation
- Electrician
I looked at the jawhorse. It doesn't look like it would work well to thread pipe with. I don't see any tool holder slots or holes for a reamer handle,oil dispenser, or to hang the portaband hook on. The jaws aren't grooved to hold round stock(conduit) plus a tristand has a shelf under it to hold rags, couplings, etc.
It looks like it would work well for the purpose it was designed for, carpentry, but I don't think it can touch a stand Rigid has built for years catering to the market of running pipe and conduit.
It looks like it would work well for the purpose it was designed for, carpentry, but I don't think it can touch a stand Rigid has built for years catering to the market of running pipe and conduit.
- Status