Cutting Sealtite with conductors inside?

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busman

busman

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Northern Virginia
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Master Electrician / Electrical Engineer
I've never had to do this before. I have some badly UV deteriorated sealtite (the metallic kind) that needs to be replaced. The first 5 feet are fine (they are in a shady spot). I'd like to cut the bad section, install a JB and new sealtite. Any tips on cutting sealtite without damaging the wires? I was thinking of using a razor knife to cut the jacket and then just cutting it with a hacksaw like MC cable (thru one section of the spiral).

Any help appreciated.

Mark
 
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I have never tried this but how about a tubing cutter. I have used a hacksaw and kept the wire on the bottom side while I cut slowly around.
 
busman said:
I've never had to do this before. I have some badly UV deteriorated sealtite (the metallic kind) that needs to be replaced. The first 5 feet are fine (they are in a shady spot). I'd like to cut the bad section, install a JB and new sealtite. Any tips on cutting sealtite without damaging the wires? I was thinking of using a razor knife to cut the jacket and then just cutting it with a hacksaw like MC cable (thru one section of the spiral).

Any help appreciated.

Mark
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Slide a piece of emt down the inside of the sealtight to protect the wires before cutting the sealtight.
 
I may get slammed for this, but I've actually done this hundreds of times with wires in it. For that matter, It's also the only way I cut it. Score it and break it. Clean it up with side cutters. Up to 1 1/4" that is.
 
The EMT is a great way to protect the conductors.

You didn't say what size flex you are cutting, but if it was 3/4 or 1/2, I'd just use a MC cutting tool and razor knife to cut the vinyl.
 
I cut the outside cover with a razor knife, then "break" it and cut the piece with side cutters, then put in an insulator, a st fitting, a coupling, st fitting and on you go with the sealtite. But with all of that said, why not just disconnect the power and wires and redo the whole length. By the time you get done repairing it you could have replaced it.
 
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I don't know if the connector-coupling-connector method would be okay, as we've had similar discussions about similar methods for connecting flexible raceways to conduits, nor whether the results would be weather-tight, but I do agree that replacing the entire length would be preferable.
 
Chev said:
I cut the outside cover with a razor knife, then "break" it and cut the piece with side cutters, then put in an insulator, a st fitting, a coupling, st fitting and on you go with the sealtite. But with all of that said, why not just disconnect the power and wires and redo the whole length. By the time you get done repairing it you could have replaced it.
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I didn't want to replace the whole length because it goes down thru the roof flashing and I hate to disturb the roofing. I wasn't going to use the connector-nipple-connector, I was going to install a JB.

Thanks,

Mark
 
kspifldorf said:
I may get slammed for this, but I've actually done this hundreds of times with wires in it. For that matter, It's also the only way I cut it. Score it and break it. Clean it up with side cutters. Up to 1 1/4" that is.
Click to expand...

That's how I would do it. Like you said maybe cut the outter cover with a razor knife.
 
Update

Update

Update: So, I did the job. Was able to score the jacket and just break it open like MC/BX cable and then cut the spiral with my BX cutters. Worked great (better than BX) since the screw-in part of the connector does a great job of covering the sharp edges.

Thanks for the help.

Mark
 
I'd cut it the same way as without conductors.

Ring the sheath, snap the inner metallic part, slip my strippers inside and cut with the cutter part. Dikes or tin snips wil work too.
 
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