Decora plates on tile walls

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K8MHZ said:
How do you deal with plastic screws?

Isn't there some screwy rule in the NEC that dictates the use of plastic cover screws in certain situations?
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Depends on where you're located. In NJ, if you're doing electrical work in a public housing project, the State will come in and require you to use plastic 6/32 screws in all switch and GFI covers in bathroom areas. That's the only time I've run into that situation.
 
goldstar said:
I dropped out of this thread after the first page when I noticed that we started re-inventing the wheel. But I couldn't help but notice that there were suggestions about communicating with tile guys. On many jobs you don't get an opportunity to do that. You complete your rough and come back for the final. But, let's stop for a moment and analyze the tile guy's job :
  • Mix the thin set
  • Apply the thin set
  • Cut the tile to size if required
  • Set the tile in place
  • Apply the grout
Think about the level of person you're dealing with. Unlike us who have 1" thick Code books, whose contents we have to be extremely knowkedgable about and CEU courses for our licenses, these guys have 5 processes to go through to make their job complete. Don't even think about asking them to cut a divot in the tile for your mounting screw. Use a self adhesive plate or a screwless cover plate.
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:thumbsup:

They may have a few more complications at times but you mostly summed up their primary job.

They definitely didn't need much if any of a post secondary education to be able to do what they do. I guess electricians don't necessarily need that either but it certainly can help learn all the aspects of the trade easier.
 
goldstar said:
Depends on where you're located. In NJ, if you're doing electrical work in a public housing project, the State will come in and require you to use plastic 6/32 screws in all switch and GFI covers in bathroom areas. That's the only time I've run into that situation.
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So how do you make the plastic screws shorter if needed? I have never tried it, but I'll bet using a T-stripper won't work. Maybe you could thread the screw in the desired amount and use a knife to make the cut?
 
I'm not sure what problems might occur. I would think, at the very worst, you could cross thread the screw and never know the difference
 
goldstar said:
I'm not sure what problems might occur. I would think, at the very worst, you could cross thread the screw and never know the difference
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The strippers don't really cut the metal screws, they break them. If you look close you can see the shear line. My thought is that the plastic screw would not be cut, just deformed and stretched. Granted, that is a SWAG as I have never tried such a thing.
 
K8MHZ said:
The strippers don't really cut the metal screws, they break them. If you look close you can see the shear line. My thought is that the plastic screw would not be cut, just deformed and stretched. Granted, that is a SWAG as I have never tried such a thing.
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But they re-thread the screw as you back them out, that is the key!
 
Anyways, since this is such a difficult item for many, I am willing to work for $100.00/HR cutting screws for people that cannot, i'm accepting orders now, and accept all forms of credit cards, please inbox me for orders....
 
stickboy1375 said:
Anyways, since this is such a difficult item for many, I am willing to work for $100.00/HR cutting screws for people that cannot, i'm accepting orders now, and accept all forms of credit cards, please inbox me for orders....
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Ah, capitalism at it's finest.:) Just keep the government out of it.
 
John120/240 said:
I always try to talk to the tile or granite guys ahead of time & explain what I need to have done. There have been times where one or both screw holes were covered by tile/granite. I would wrap the screw terminals on the device with tape & let it hang loose until tile guy made his repair.

A former coworker was famous for using his BFH & a screwdriver to adjust tile & granite. I always had to leave the room when he did this. There are too many ways this can turn sour. It is better to let the tile guy do his own repair than to have the tile guy repair your screw up IMHO.
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From post #4
I put the responsibility on the tile/granite guy to do a quality installation from the start. Then you can concentrate on real problems that need your attention.
 
stickboy1375 said:
Anyways, since this is such a difficult item for many, I am willing to work for $100.00/HR cutting screws for people that cannot, i'm accepting orders now, and accept all forms of credit cards, please inbox me for orders....
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Do we need to send you the screws? What is the warranty policy?

You sure you can keep up with orders by "hand cutting" them or will you start automating the process?

:)
 
If the device yoke gets overtightened into the wallboard surface or the finish surface is uneven, the screws that work with tile will be too short.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
GoldDigger said:
If the device yoke gets overtightened into the wallboard surface or the finish surface is uneven, the screws that work with tile will be too short.
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You would not leave it that way, you would back out the screws to the box or the device will look like crap recessed into the plate.
 
iwire said:
You would not leave it that way, you would back out the screws to the box or the device will look like crap recessed into the plate.
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Bwahh, This thread makes me feel as if i'm the only one that has ever installed a plate before... :roll: Can't wait until we start talking about screwless faceplates....
 
100 decora screw in your bag, 100 decora screws,

cut one off, screw on the wall,

99 screws in the bag..


who will be 100!
 
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