Disp & Dishwasher on single 20A ckt?

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There is a different model sold at Walmart with some mechanical failures.
https://www.walmart.com/reviews/product/21799075?reviews_limit=10&reviewId=topid
That model is the Insinkerator single outlet air switch. It only has one switched outlet.

That one is a dual outlet air switch, marketed for hooking up a hot-water dispenser and a garbage disposal. Presumably only one outlet is powered at a time, although I couldn't actually confirm that in the spec sheet.

Do you actually know anyone who has used the dual outlet switch for a garbage disposal and a dishwasher? I guess if the dishwasher has an "automatically resume cycle after power failure" feature, it would work. Otherwise, it would be very annoying.

Cheers, Wayne
 
Do you actually know anyone who has used the dual outlet switch for a garbage disposal and a dishwasher? I guess if the dishwasher has an "automatically resume cycle after power failure" feature, it would work. Otherwise, it would be very annoying.

Never heard of DW instructions prohibiting interlocking air-switch systems, much less voiding warranties, nor halting cycle after such interruptions.

My trouble is 15A reset fuses on power strips, which can pop with Insta-Hots, while the air-switch interupts both disposer & dishwaser.
 
Never heard of DW instructions prohibiting interlocking air-switch systems, much less voiding warranties, nor halting cycle after such interruptions.

My trouble is 15A reset fuses on power strips, which can pop with Insta-Hots, while the air-switch interupts both disposer & dishwaser.

My dishwasher, with electronic controls, requires that you push the start button to resume after you interrupt the cycle by opening the door and forgets completely what it was doing if you interrupt power. You have to manually start a draindown cycle to get to an appropriate state to start over again.
Older models with a drum timer might handle it more gracefully. :)
 
Photo6.jpg
Air-switch interrupter w/ nameplate mounted under-sink to cabinet door divider. The only place it could fit.
15A Powerstrip shown with insta-hot appliance. We had to order a 20A power strip online. Not sold in stores.

The Toledo Long Beach CA, Custom home with single 20A circuit under sink, was packed with appliances, and no practical route to add a circuit.

1) Power-assist Reverse Osmosis (RO dispenser) water filtration system that could not be interrupted.
2) 6A Insta-Hot water heating element - that overheated when city turned off water - now pulling 10-12A
3) Dishwasher
4) Monster Disposal
 
2) 6A Insta-Hot water heating element - that overheated when city turned off water - now pulling 10-12A
Yes client was told to replace insta-hot hazard, and eventual did after getting socked at sink, and under sink GFCI failed to reset. 15A power strip should have worked fine after defective insta-hot was replaced.
 
I did. It powered up not in a cycle. What happened with yours?
Shutting off wrong breaker killed my desktop computer for good. May be foced to upgrade my old WinXP. Smart phone pecking not fun, I quit.

My dishwasher was not halted during the interruption, same cycle, continued as if nothing happened, albeit a mechanical rotary dial control.
 
Shutting off wrong breaker killed my desktop computer for good. May be foced to upgrade my old WinXP. Smart phone pecking not fun, I quit.

My dishwasher was not halted during the interruption, same cycle, continued as if nothing happened, albeit a mechanical rotary dial control.
As I said, a DW with a drum switch (timer) will almost certainly resume where it left off. Unless it had a safety circuit added like modern dryers.
 
110.3(B):



One may be able to question whether or not such instructions are included in the listing or labeling though. Some instructions are so poorly written I kind of doubt they are a part of the listing.

How would one go about getting the text of the listing or labeling?

RC
 
Dangerous, but I've been re-thinking this issue of individual circuits being required by the installation instructions. :slaphead:

The installation instructions on the GE units were from shop drawings on a previous apartment complex. Normally during the design phase we don't know whose appliances will be installed in any given project. Nor will the appliances be installed during the final inspection.

Sooo, If I don't know during the design phase, why can't I assume in my favor and put the dishwasher and the disposal on a single dual function AFCI/GFCI via a split receptacle??? :cool:

RC
 
Dangerous, but I've been re-thinking this issue of individual circuits being required by the installation instructions. :slaphead:

The installation instructions on the GE units were from shop drawings on a previous apartment complex. Normally during the design phase we don't know whose appliances will be installed in any given project. Nor will the appliances be installed during the final inspection.

Sooo, If I don't know during the design phase, why can't I assume in my favor and put the dishwasher and the disposal on a single dual function AFCI/GFCI via a split receptacle??? :cool:

RC
That is mostly my thoughts. Most of the time at rough in I have no idea what model the appliance will be, nor do I know what it will be replaced with someday down the road. Very seldom does one run into a combination that does exceed 20 amps, and even if it does very seldom would it ever cause troubles with tripping the breaker either. If the inspector has the time to check this sort of detail and calls it out - so be it I guess, IMO that is more of a design issue then a safety issue anyway. If this were life safety equipment those kinds of details are more important though.
 
From a CYA standpoint... Most appliance mfg.'s are spec'ing dedicated circuits nowadays. So if one or more DW fails and an appliance repairman shows up and finds both units on one circuit, blame will be placed on the designer, and you may be responsible for replacement of said unit and the correction of the wiring. Are you OK taking that risk to save $100 a unit?
 
From a CYA standpoint... Most appliance mfg.'s are spec'ing dedicated circuits nowadays. So if one or more DW fails and an appliance repairman shows up and finds both units on one circuit, blame will be placed on the designer, and you may be responsible for replacement of said unit and the correction of the wiring. Are you OK taking that risk to save $100 a unit?

Maybe that happens in some instances. Most appliance repair guys I have ever seen have no clue on most anything about the premises wiring. Some of them don't even know how to properly install a supply cord on a range or dryer, or even a dishwasher or disposer in some instances. GFCI tripping - has to be a problem with the GFCI - the appliance works fine when not plugged into a GFCI:slaphead:
 
From a CYA standpoint... Most appliance mfg.'s are spec'ing dedicated circuits nowadays. So if one or more DW fails and an appliance repairman shows up and finds both units on one circuit, blame will be placed on the designer, and you may be responsible for replacement of said unit and the correction of the wiring. Are you OK taking that risk to save $100 a unit?

The day that happens is the day I tear up my electrical license and become a plumber.
 
Dangerous, but I've been re-thinking this issue of individual circuits being required by the installation instructions. :slaphead:

The installation instructions on the GE units were from shop drawings on a previous apartment complex. Normally during the design phase we don't know whose appliances will be installed in any given project. Nor will the appliances be installed during the final inspection.

Sooo, If I don't know during the design phase, why can't I assume in my favor and put the dishwasher and the disposal on a single dual function AFCI/GFCI via a split receptacle??? :cool:

RC
If the dishwasher is in place when final inspection is done it could be very expensive for you and I check instructions during final inspections.
 
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