Drill Bits...

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Re: Drill Bits...

Midget, it looks like this.

VGUN5.JPG
 
Re: Drill Bits...

a selection bits should be available for the job and these are maintained and/or replaced as necessary and paid for by your overhead -- just like tools! some jobs may require special bits and you should realize that when looking at the job. an example: we had to install card readers inside the elevators in a building. the elevator interior walls were stainless steel. we had a standard selection of bits and unibits--not necessarily new but in good shape. well this stainless kicked our a$$! it required us to change bits to gradually get the hole to the size necessary --- this was very time consuming. this was doubling the labor required to do the job! years ago, i was shown by a printing press mechanic the "cobalt" bit, we were drilling into some heavy press frames and he loaned us one.

i called my local granger store and asked about "cobalt" bits. they had them! i picked up a half dozen of each size hole we needed for this install. guess what--never needed more than the original bit! they are expensive but labor savors and in the long run -- the way to go!
 
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charlie: you misread. buy a bit a house and you end up with a good selection of augers. you will generally end up ahead with augers. move to other bits. It's part of the general operating costs. Some jobs now have so many nails i would be tempted to see if there were carbide augers for the hawg. wonder if they make cobalt augers?

paul
 
Re: Drill Bits...

So what's our favorite brand?

I've found Greenlee's to dull if it sees a nail from the street, but Lenox are good. Is it Lenox that makes the "Nailbiter" with the black edge? Seems like a used one once and it was awesome.
 
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I don't quite understand how you pick the size of the hole you drill with the christmas tree bit...

[ December 18, 2004, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: midget ]
 
Re: Drill Bits...

You drill through until you think you have the right size, stop and check with whatever connector you're using in the hole, keep drilling, etc.

I've always had a 1/2" step bit, so I just drill until I run out of bit, and it's a 1/2" hole.
 
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on the step bit.....
i just picked up a new one made by greenlee
it has a lengthened area on it that lets you know when you hit 1/2 and 3/4
 
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Much better than cobalt is the solid carbide twist drill. These are available from machinist supply houses. They are expensive, especially in the larger sizes, but will never wear out unless you overheat them. They'll make mince meat out of stainless

-Hal

[ December 18, 2004, 05:51 PM: Message edited by: hbiss ]
 
Re: Drill Bits...

Originally posted by georgestolz:
You drill through until you think you have the right size, stop and check with whatever connector you're using in the hole, keep drilling, etc.

I've always had a 1/2" step bit, so I just drill until I run out of bit, and it's a 1/2" hole.
Ooo...these are for metal...I was thinking wood...silly me. :p
 
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midget: an earlier poster said why not stick it out with new for a while. That might be a good idea to get familiar with all the available goodies.

cutting into all the new expensive veneers, tile, fragile trim, island faces; positioning outlets just above the marble spash, just behind the island drawer, switches to the side of trim, switches and outlets and lights outside the mirrors and tile, or completely in the tile. getting a feel for the framing so up and down drilling is not problematic; all the ways 4-ways can be done; getting a sense of when removing wood is a structural problem (or is going to require some remediation). these and other skills come with working new construction.

knowing which tools to drag into the crawlspace and attic is a personal and learned experience.

losing a few handtools in blown insulation will prevent future losses better than any advice.

good luck either way

paul
 
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Good idea. :) I just don't want to be doing new all the time... :) But that's a good idea to start there to get a feel for the framing...There are times wood actually has to be reomved, other than just drilling threw it? How do you learn when that would weaken a structure, or when it would need to be moved or what not? Would you do something like that, or get a framer to take care of it?
 
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Midget, imagine a back door of a house with a straight back wall. Imagine a kitchen next to the back door. Imagine the entire wall between the back door and the window over the sink being filled with studs, some of which are load bearing, and some aren't.

Sometimes, yes, removing is necessary. (I usually ask a framer which ones I can sawzall into!) :)

There's debate at my shop about engineered lumber. When drilling a lamm, do you want to be in the outer 2/3's or the inner 2/3's? I have been taught it's the inner 2/3 of the lamm, but some believe otherwise. Who's right?
 
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George, usually there is a packet that comes with a load of I-joists. It is stapled to several joists in the pack. this will have the info you need for engineered lumber. It will tell you where to drill, max hole size, distance from other holes, etc.
 
Re: Drill Bits...

Originally posted by charlie:
Midget, get a copy of the American Electricians Handbook, you will not regret the purchase. :D
What's in that book? I was looking for something the other day, and like some website was talking about the book...and I was like hmmm perhaps I should get that.
 
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Charlie is not entirely correct--it has a lot of everything. My buddy purchased it last year, loaned it to me for a couple of months. It's twice as thick as the Bible, Midget. It's awesome. :)
 
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