Electric Baseboard Heat

[Cold Fusion]

-2
I noticed the reader had to supply their own decimal point. Not a problem for me.

The "aw_$h__ is more than out-weighed by the atta-boy for being the only one that has pointed out that the "rules of thumb" only work if:
1. you only do work in one area
2. you only work on one building type/formfactor.

You're absolutely right - heat loss is a function of differential temp, wind speed, outside surface area, insulation, insulation factors for windows and doors/number of doors and windows.

cf

 

[Cold Fusion]

(cut) If you're going to quote numbers on this site , they had better be correct, or you will get called on them every time.....ask me how I know.

1 watt of electricity equals 3.42 btu, not 3412 btu.

Hummm

cf

 

[enigma-2]

-2
I noticed the reader had to supply their own decimal point. Not a problem for me.
cf

I'm never going to live this down, am I? <grin>

 

[LarryFine]

If you're going to quote numbers on this site , they had better be correct, or you will get called on them every time.....ask me how I know.:smile:

Okay, Steve, I'll bite.

How do you know?

 

[hillbilly]

Okay, Steve, I'll bite.

How do you know?

As a example..

Cold Fusions Post #22 above.:grin:

 

[Cold Fusion]

As a example..

Cold Fusions Post #22 above.:grin:

Just pointing out a little irony. I wouldn't have said a thing about the units if you hadn't.

cf

 

[480sparky]

.....1 watt of electricity equals 3.42 btu, not 3412 btu.....

I get 1W = 3.415179027 BTU/hour. Or 1 BTU = 0.2930710702 watt-hour.

 

[mdshunk]

I feel the need to address some of this, because much of it simply doesn't apply to the topic of electric baseboard heaters.

If you run the programs, you can see that the different parts of the country vary widely in the amount of heat needed to be supplied to any given structure.

For example, a 1250 sq. ft home built in Texas might require 63,521,600 Btu/h per hour where that same home in Mn could require 81,115,100 Btu/hour to heat.

Assuming that a 1 watt = 3412 Btu/h, the Tx home would require 18.6 Kva of heating, and the Mn home would require 23.8 Kva of heating.

When translated to electric baseboard heaters, distributed throughout the home, it will more than likely yield nearly the same heaters in the same locations.

And also consider that oversizing is no longer considered acceptable. So just assuming say 15 watts/SF will keep them warm may produce a red tag just as readily as undersizing.

Plainly untrue in the case of electric baseboard heaters. You can oversize all you want. You may also undersize as long as your design can maintain 68 degrees. If you have a code section in mind that precludes oversizing baseboard heat, I'd invite you to post it here, whether it be IRC or otherwise. It does not exist. The stat will simply run the heat for a shorter amount of time.

 

[Cold Fusion]

(cut) When translated to electric baseboard heaters, distributed throughout the home, it will more than likely yield nearly the same heaters in the same locations. (cut)

Lost me on this one. MN needs 95 feet, TX needs 72 feet. Are you over-buying by 1/3 in TX or are you under-buying by a 1/4 in MN?

cf

 

[mdshunk]

Lost me on this one. MN needs 95 feet, TX needs 72 feet. Are you over-buying by 1/3 in TX or are you under-buying by a 1/4 in MN?

cf

Do a room by room layout and call me later. You're a goofball.

 

[suemarkp]

Hey MD, do you have a 4.7' baseboard heater on your truck?

 

[mdshunk]

Hey MD, do you have a 4.7' baseboard heater on your truck?

No, that's my point. You can only get them in certain steps.

 

[peter d]

Hey MD, do you have a 4.7' baseboard heater on your truck?

Use a hacksaw.

 

[LarryFine]

Use a hacksaw.

That's something only a hack would try. :wink:

 

[Cold Fusion]

Do a room by room layout and call me later. You're a goofball.

Whoop! Whoop! High post count arrogance factor alert!

And you guys wonder why mule doesn't want anything to do with you. It's clear to me.

As for me being a "goofball' - I don't know what to say - technically "nope, I don't sniff". Practically, "Yeah sometimes - so what"

but I still don't get why one would want to buy extra heat when not needed - nor undersize to the point of poor recovery. Without any explanation, it appears to be poor tradesmanship to me.

But I also don't do residential either.

Sorry to hit and run, but I only get a few hours every now and then to look at this. Back to work for me.

cf

 

[mdshunk]

but I still don't get why one would want to buy extra heat when not needed - nor undersize to the point of poor recovery. Without any explanation, it appears to be poor tradesmanship to me.

When they start making baseboard heaters in boutique sizes, then you might be right. Until then, unless you're operating in the most extreme northern or southern climates, the install will look pretty much the same in most of the country.

 

[peter d]

That's something only a hack would try. :wink:

Well duh!!

 

[iwire]

but I still don't get why one would want to buy extra heat when not needed - nor undersize to the point of poor recovery.

Who said anything about it being undersized?

The explanation is simple, the opening poster asked if there was a rule of thumb and the answer is yes, there are rules of thumb.

I think we all know that to figure heat or cooling load exactly requires more than a simple watts to area calculation but for electric heat it can be done.

Without any explanation, it appears to be poor tradesmanship to me.

That seems like a long stretch to me.

 

[peter d]

And you guys wonder why mule doesn't want anything to do with you. It's clear to me.

I don't wonder at all. He posted some comments on a public forum open to public scrutiny, and when he didn't get the answer that he wanted to hear, he cut and ran. It's clear to me.

 

[goodfriend]

Share these with all friends here.