evaporated milk for drilling stainless steel

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I guess with evaporated milk when you are done drilling holes you can add a little water and have some milk, most products marketed for cutting and drilling aren't recommended to ingest.:cool:
 
kwired said:
I guess with evaporated milk when you are done drilling holes you can add a little water and have some milk, most products marketed for cutting and drilling aren't recommended to ingest.:cool:
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FWIW remember that there is a difference between evaporated milk (milk with some of the water removed by a heat process) and condensed milk (essentially evaporated milk with a lot of sugar added.)
Using condensed milk could add a bunch of caramelized sugar to the mess if the heat at the drill tip gets too high.
 
Don't know how it would work for drilling stainless but I have used shaving cream for drilling through concrete with floor tile that may contain asbestos. Anchoring racks for communication equipment in older buildings we would mark the floor and set the bit on our mark then squirt cheap shaving cream around the bit. This prevented any partials from becoming air borne.
 
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I use it for shaving, and I don't use condensed milk, so it must be better.

:lol:
 
USMC1302 said:
Hmmm....I need to drill some stainless and am out of cutting oil, let's see what's in the cupboard....or I have a coolant leak in my '73 Impala, let's pour some black pepper in the radiator.
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LMAO!!!
 
USMC1302 said:
I've often wondered where/how these "remedies" evolved? Hmmm ... I have a coolant leak in my '73 Impala, let's pour some black pepper in the radiator...
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That actually works on small radiator leaks. I had a '67 Econoline I used that trick on and it worked very well. The only thing was that every time I removed the radiator cap it smelled like I was cooking a gumbo. :D
 
Run your drill slow. I've used WD-40, PB Blaster, or cutting oil for threading pipe -it's kind of thick. Trans fluid. Basically any type of petroleum product.

The key is running the drill slow on low to get the torque.
 
Mystic Pools said:
Run your drill slow. I've used WD-40, PB Blaster, or cutting oil for threading pipe -it's kind of thick. Trans fluid. Basically any type of petroleum product.

The key is running the drill slow on low to get the torque.
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I don't know all the details of how/why, and do agree that most any oil may help but have seen especially for pipe threading that an oil intended for pipe threading is better then just any oil.

We once had a job with a fair amount of threading and one guy thought it would be a good idea to use "used" motor oil instead of thread cutting oil. We had a lot of gulled threads when using that oil compared to using pipe threading oil.

I have seen different products that work better then others on stainless as well.
 
Might try what I have seen mirror people use when drilling a hole in the mirror. They used duct-seal to form a little dam around the area & then put anti-freeze/coolant inside the dammed area. Coolant keeps the vehicle engine cooler, so worked on their application. And yes, low speed!
 
JDB3 said:
Might try what I have seen mirror people use when drilling a hole in the mirror. They used duct-seal to form a little dam around the area & then put anti-freeze/coolant inside the dammed area. Coolant keeps the vehicle engine cooler, so worked on their application. And yes, low speed!
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As long as you are not heating it to its boiling point water actually conducts heat better than pure or mixed antifreeze coolant.
But the glycol compound is a lot better lubricant than plain water.
 
JDB3 said:
Might try what I have seen mirror people use when drilling a hole in the mirror. They used duct-seal to form a little dam around the area & then put anti-freeze/coolant inside the dammed area. Coolant keeps the vehicle engine cooler, so worked on their application. And yes, low speed!
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But in an engine it absorbs heat as it is pumped by and takes it to the radiator where it gives up heat as it is pumped through it - you constantly have coolant moving past the area you want to remove heat.

If you dam off a large enough area you probably do get enough coolant movement though to be similarly effective.
 
Malox for heat transfer compound

Malox for heat transfer compound

I shop i used to work at would use plain unscented malox to coat 480v rod heaters,'
it is the same stuff used on transistors and heat sinks.
 
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