Extending 12/2 Romex

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winnie said:
I wonder, however, if there is a chance that this might be considered a small appliance branch circuit even though it is intended to be dedicated to the microwave.
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I would call it a 15 amp individual branch circuit.
 
infinity said:
Have you ever run larger conductors for voltage drop compensation? We often run #10 branch circuit conductors for 20 amp circuits. No one should be changing the OCPD size without thoroughly investigating the entire circuit.
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infinity said:
To each his own. I would put #12 on a 15 amp OCPD everyday without a second thought. To me this is no different than converting a 240 volt, 30 amp electric dryer circuit to a 120 volt, 20 amp for a gas dryer and putting the #10's on a 20 amp OCPD.
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No issue with these. In these cases, if someone reverted/changed that circuit in the panel to what the wire size is in the panel, it still wouldn't be undersized. What gives me pause is when someone does that not knowing there was a gauge change down the line. It would be accidental for anyone to discover that gauge change.
 
As I said previously no one should be installing a larger circuit breaker just because the conductor happens to be oversized. There could be a number of reasons why there is a #12 conductor on a 15 amp circuit breaker in a panel including the one mentioned in the OP which is extending the existing 12/2 with 14/2. Is it code compliant to do so, yes. Is it a good idea, opinions vary. :)
 
roger said:
Funny, I just did the same thing three days ago putting a #6 on a 20 amp breaker for someone changing an electric range to gas.

Roger
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When I remodeled my kitchen, the electric cooktop in the island went away and now I have a gas range against the wall. I now have a 20 A MWBC serving island receptacles with #8 AWG. There is a junction box in the island switching to #12 for the last couple of feet. Never gave it a second thought before this thread.
I really doubt anyone in the future will look in the panel, see 8 gauge and put in a bigger breaker just because.
 
Dennis Alwon said:
You are probably going to hell especially since the equipment grounding conductor has not been upsized proportionally with the other conductors. Shame on you....hahaha
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The EGC in the #6 would be more than enough for a 20a OCPD.

What would need upsizing?

JAP>
 
jap said:
The EGC in the #6 would be more than enough for a 20a OCPD.

What would need upsizing?

JAP>
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I was joking but read 250.122(B), I believe... Since 15 or 20 amps is all that is needed for the circuit to a gas range then using #6 means you have upsized the conductor therefore, the equipment grounding conductor must also be upsized.

I have done what Roger did many time but they now make an electric range adapter with a fuse in it to reduce it down to 15 or 20 amps. Something like the image below, They make it for 4 wire range receptacles also.

51zMn9zJ2pL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
southwire-stove-parts-9042sw8801-c3_145.jpg
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I was joking but read 250.122(B), I believe... Since 15 or 20 amps is all that is needed for the circuit to a gas range then using #6 means you have upsized the conductor therefore, the equipment grounding conductor must also be upsized.

I have done what Roger did many time but they now make an electric range adapter with a fuse in it to reduce it down to 15 or 20 amps. Something like the image below, They make it for 4 wire range receptacles also.

51zMn9zJ2pL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
southwire-stove-parts-9042sw8801-c3_145.jpg
Click to expand...


Oh,,,, I see the irony.,,,

Jap>
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I have done what Roger did many time but they now make an electric range adapter with a fuse in it to reduce it down to 15 or 20 amps. Something like the image below, They make it for 4 wire range receptacles also.

51zMn9zJ2pL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
southwire-stove-parts-9042sw8801-c3_145.jpg
Click to expand...

That is exactly the adapter that I am using in my kitchen. The specific reason for selecting this was to have the 50A electric receptacle remain in case a future appliance needed it. Has worked beautifully for several years now.

-Jon
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I was joking but read 250.122(B), I believe... Since 15 or 20 amps is all that is needed for the circuit to a gas range then using #6 means you have upsized the conductor therefore, the equipment grounding conductor must also be upsized.

I have done what Roger did many time but they now make an electric range adapter with a fuse in it to reduce it down to 15 or 20 amps. Something like the image below, They make it for 4 wire range receptacles also.

51zMn9zJ2pL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
southwire-stove-parts-9042sw8801-c3_145.jpg
Click to expand...
Interesting, never seen such a beast!
 
Here is the info

  • [240V-120v] (250v-125v)] your new gas range will use a 120V plug as opposed to the 220V plug for your previous electric range. This unit is UL listed and allows for an easy plug and play solution to convert that old Plug from a 4 prong 220/240/250 volt plug to a 110/120/125 volt plug
  • [Save money] you already had to pay to run a gas line for the new range, save money by doing the switch over yourself with this plug and play solution.
  • [Safety listed] UL listed for your safety with built in overload protection provided by a non-replaceable 15 amp fuse
  • [Functional design] the 90-degree Plug orientation of the plug allows for the appliance to be closer to the wall and the easy-grip, folding Tee handle allows for easy and safe removal from the 220-volt outlet
  • [Technical stuff] UL Listed, 125-Volt/250-volt outlet configuration: NEMA 5-15R (2-pole, 3-wire grounding) 15 amp 125-volt (protected by non-replaceable 15 amp fuse)
  • [More details] Plug Configuration: 250-volt 50-amp NEMA 14-50P (4-prong) receptacle: 125-Volt 15-amp NEMA 5-15R (2-pole, 3-wire grounding)
  • [Note on voltage]: commonly voltages for 250 Volts Might be referred to as 240 volts, 250 volts, and 220 volts. This unit is rated to 250 volts and will address these applications.
  • [Note on what this unit won't do] sometimes we get questions on if this item will convert an electric range to a gas range. While we wish it would do that, this item will only handle the electrical part of the conversion, you will still need to run a gas line.
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Dennis Alwon said:
Here is the info
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[Note on what this unit won't do] sometimes we get questions on if this item will convert an electric range to a gas range. While we wish it would do that, this item will only handle the electrical part of the conversion, you will still need to run a gas line.


:unsure:... :)

JAP>
 
jap said:
[Note on what this unit won't do] sometimes we get questions on if this item will convert an electric range to a gas range. While we wish it would do that, this item will only handle the electrical part of the conversion, you will still need to run a gas line.
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It doesn't convert electricity into gas?! Then what good is it?! :mad:
 
LarryFine said:
It doesn't convert electricity into gas?! Then what good is it?! :mad:
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It gives a do it yourselfer 2 different chances to burn their house down....

1 by use of this product or 2 by running their own gas line.... :)

Jap>
 
I see now posted above it is UL listed with overload protection so I stand corrected.

The running of the gas line should however be performed by a liscensed plumber in my opinion.

Jap>
 
jap said:
I see now posted above it is UL listed with overload protection so I stand corrected.

The running of the gas line should however be performed by a liscensed plumber in my opinion.

Jap>
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If they'll use a handiman to hook up a tap off a 50A line for the stove what makes you think they'll get a licensed plumber to do the gas line? Just get the handiman do it too. Then while he's at it he can check for leaks with a lit match too.
 
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