kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
I assume no attic access, if there is use all thread and crawl in there to put a nut on the back side of the framing member you are trying to use for support.
Eye bolt..
- Thread starter B4T
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B4T
Senior Member
- Location
- Long Island, N.Y.
one of my supply houses has lag tips with threaded rod on the other end.
I didn't even think they had a real use, until this thread. I don't know how you install them tho, since there is nothing to turn, its just a lag tip and a threaded rod tip
They fit into a threaded rod coupling
al hildenbrand
Senior Member
- Location
- Minnesota
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor, Electrical Consultant, Electrical Engineer
I'd connect the rod to the tip, leave the rod 6" long, or so, drill a large enough first hole for the tip and coupling to get through, tap the end of the rod with a hammer to set the tip, and use a pipe wrench, or even a vice grip to grab and turn the end of the rod. Once set, I'd cut the rod to length.I don't know how you install them tho, since there is nothing to turn, its just a lag tip and a threaded rod tip
... I don't know how you install them tho, since there is nothing to turn, its just a lag tip and a threaded rod tip
Put the rod coupling on the stud and a hex head bolt in the other end of the rod coupling. Use the bolt head to turn.
Gettin' 'em out is a little harder... but try two hex nuts jammed together and use the first one on to turn CCW. If that fails, add a third nut and try again.
B4T
Senior Member
- Location
- Long Island, N.Y.
Yep.. that is my plan and I am going to Locktite the nuts a few days in advance..
Just want to see if this pic is any better..
the guy at the hardware store said to use a cap nut to drive them, but I think I like the two hex nuts jammed tite (and the drive nut in a coupler) as a better solution. I think the coupler nut would just thread all the way on and I guess it would finally hit the wood threads and then it could turn it.
A cap nut would work fine for screwing the studs in. Only problem is that the nut may get too tight to remove it without spinning out the stud, and usually we don't want to grip the threaded part of the stud to remove the nut. With a coupling and hex head bolt, one can grip the coupling to remove the bolt, and the rod coupling is going to be used in the final assembly anyway. Perhaps the better alternative in the OP case, is to use the eye bolt to turn the stud in and its done.
Hoofhearted
Member
What do you do when it's a finished wall on the inside? Screw in's are all we use, often the POCO guys will give us a handful.
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krisinjersey
Senior Member
- Location
- Hackettstown, New Jersey
Crazy
Crazy
Call me crazy, but why can't you lower the thing 6 inches and drill a lag eye into a stud? The hooks got to be below the head anyway. And you'd get more bite in 3 1/2" of stud than through an 1 1/2" of rafter. JCP&L has run them though the siding here and a strong wind can pull em out. LIPA really that crazy about the way you install the hook?
Crazy
Call me crazy, but why can't you lower the thing 6 inches and drill a lag eye into a stud? The hooks got to be below the head anyway. And you'd get more bite in 3 1/2" of stud than through an 1 1/2" of rafter. JCP&L has run them though the siding here and a strong wind can pull em out. LIPA really that crazy about the way you install the hook?
B4T
Senior Member
- Location
- Long Island, N.Y.
Trying to hit the center of a stud would be a chore all by itself.. I know the roof rafter is not going to split as easily as a stud will..
LIPA could really care less.. it always looks good from the street..:roll:
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