Fastening strut channel directly to a surface

[winnie]

I would like to fasten strut channel directly to a surface using 1/2" expanding sleeve anchor studs.

The problem that I have is that the nuts that go on to the ends of the studs are 3/4" across the flats, and a socket for these nuts will not fit between the 'lips' of the strut.

Can anyone point me to a tool designed to tighten nuts 'inside' a strut channel? I am imagining something like a cross between a socket and an open end wrench, that could be slid on from the side.

Currently my best solution is to use long 'coupling nuts' that extend all the way out of the channel. But it seems to me that there should be a way to grab onto a normal nut.

Thanks
Jon

 

[benaround]

Jon,

I think most guys use 3/8" anchors and the 3/8" bolt is a 9/16" socket, if

more strenght is needed then add more anchors.

As far as your case, can you set the strut off the surface just a bit more ?

I'm thinking you could run the bolt thru the strut hole, then double nut

behind the strut- one to secure to the surface the other to secure the strut.

You could always grind a socket down to bear minimum, that might work

better. good luck. also I will take this oppertunity to say thanks for your

contributions to this Forum

 

[tkb]

Why do you need to use 1/2" anchors?
3/8" anchors should hold sufficiently for the strut.
1/2" may be overkill.

If you use 3/8" anchors you have a little room for adjustment in case you didn't drill the holes exactly in the right spot.

 

[growler]

The problem that I have is that the nuts that go on to the ends of the studs are 3/4" across the flats, and a socket for these nuts will not fit between the 'lips' of the strut.
Jon

Have you tried a thin walled socket? That's a about as narrow a tool made.

 

[winnie]

Hmm. I like the idea of 'double nutting'; then I can just get in there with an ordinary open end wrench. Plus it puts some space between the strut and the concrete.

If I grind off a socket, I'll just grind off one side and leave the other full thickness; a standard socket will fit _under_ the lips of the strut, but once the nut is tight it might be difficult to get the standard socket out. Of course one also needs to clear the _bolt_.

As to why I used half inch anchors: I'll fess up to a DIY 'doh' moment (not electrical, I'm using the strut in the yard), rental hammer drill and anchors are already in place. Using 3/8" makes more sense in retrospect.

If I can find a _very_ thinwall socket, that would probably work, but it would have to be _very_ thinwall indeed. 3/4" hex is 0.866" across the diagonals, and the opening in the strut is _nominally_ 0.875". What I had initially hoped to do was use some sort of 'small pattern nut' and a 11/16 thinwall socket. But while 6-32 small pattern nuts are common, 1/2-13 small pattern nuts are not.

And many thanks for all of the ideas.

-Jon

 

[Buck Parrish]

We generally sleeve it and put a couple large washer on the outside.

If this is for outdoors we also spray it with clear polyurathane to keep it from rusting.

 

[zappy]

We generally sleeve it and put a couple large washer on the outside.

If this is for outdoors we also spray it with clear polyurathane to keep it from rusting.

Thats a good idea clear polyurathane.Does it come in a spray can?

 

[benaround]

Jon,

I meant to grind the socket down lenght wise not thin wise, make it real

stubby just enough to catch the head of the bolt.

 

[Sparky555]

3/8" RedHead with a washer & a deep socket.

Dave

 

[220/221]

I like the idea of 'double nutting'; then I can just get in there with an ordinary open end wrench. Plus it puts some space between the strut and the concrete.

Generally you wouldn't want space there. You lose stability (but gain drainage).



Rod coupling???

Spacer behind the nut???

Tweak the strut to accept the deep socket and then squeeze it back???

 

[Buck Parrish]

Thats a good idea clear polyurathane.Does it come in a spray can?

Yes,
I got caught doing this by the owner of a building, boy was he impressed.

 

[LarryFine]

As to why I used half inch anchors: I'll fess up to a DIY 'doh' moment (not electrical, I'm using the strut in the yard), rental hammer drill and anchors are already in place. Using 3/8" makes more sense in retrospect.

Jon, why not just abandon the existing studs (cut them off with a recip saw or grinder if you really want to) and install new hardware in the next slots?

 

[celtic]

Jon, why not just abandon the existing studs (cut them off with a recip saw or grinder if you really want to) and install new hardware in the next slots?

I'm going with Larry's answer...final answer.


By the time you figure how to do it, modify things to do it, then actually get to doing it...you could have had it re-done by starting over.

A thought if you insist on using the 1/2" set up... 7/8" strut and square washers

 

[winnie]

In the end, I think that I'll just go with the rod couplings used as nuts; they will stick out far enough to use an ordinary wrench, and will certainly be strong enough. Not ideal, but cheaper and easier than drilling new holes and setting new anchors, and good enough for the application. Also _lots_ easier than trying to make a specific tool for the job (though I do have a couple of ideas that I might put together if I get easy machine shop access)

In the future I will use 3/8" anchors, which appears to be the _right_ tool for the job.

Thanks again.
Jon

 

[ceb58]

Thats a good idea clear polyurathane.Does it come in a spray can?

If this is for outdoors we also spray it with clear polyurathane to keep it from rusting.

DUH, if they spray it it probably comes in a can.:grin: :grin: :grin:
Sorry Zappy, just to good to pass up

 

[mdshunk]

DUH, if they spray it it probably comes in a can.:grin: :grin: :grin:
Sorry Zappy, just to good to pass up

If you happen to have a can of ZincIt on the truck, that works good too. Sorta messes up the look of yellow chromated strut, but blends in just fine on the galvanized color strut. Leftover cans of Ocal/Robroy touch up stuff works good too. For me, that stuff goes bad before I ever use it all up.

 

[LarryFine]

For me, that stuff goes bad before I ever use it all up.

I have the same problem with PVC solvent. I always want to buy the larger can for economy, but . . .

 

[peter]

My favorite thread size is 3/8-16.
1/2" is too big for UniStrut for the reasons mentioned. With 3/8-16, you can measure your trapeeze and if one side is, say 1/8" low, then that is two 1/16"s so you mark andmake two turns on the nut and it will go up 2/16"s or 1/8". Pretty neat!
Since this is a serious, scientific, college level, brainstorming thread, I will kindly toss out a couple more ideas:
1] Using a grinder or sawzall or whatever [file, sandpaper, etc.], eradicate the curved lips of the strut to gain access for the socket.
2] Use long nose pliers and fake it. Who will know?
3] Most esoteric: Carefully and precisely, grind down the 1/2" stud to 3/8" diameter and then thread it with a 3/8" die.
~Peter

 

[iaov]

How about Tapcons and washers? Plenty of room for adjustment and to get a wrench in.

 

[jrannis]

I agree with the use of square washers. Sometimes you need to use 1/2" hardware and not having to try to get a socket inside the channel works out nice.