Feed to Sub Panel, Need Some Ammunition...

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kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
Ok, from what i see this site is all about not empowering DIY'ers, and i want to make it CLEAR i am not asking about this particular situation in an attempt to gain advice about doing something myself, i am trying to get advice on how to deal with an electrician and an inspector that are driving me totally nuts!!! So come on pro's, give me some advice on how to approach these guys so i know what's going on here!!

I work primarily in the low voltage and networking world, but even my nose is sniffing something wrong here. So here it is...

House to Non-Attached Garage Sub Panel...

The main panel in the basement of the house has a two pole 20a breaker feeding 12/3 Romex to a J-Box on the outside of the foundation wall. There is conduit through the foundation wall, and there is a box on both sides of the foundation wall. To clarify, there is a PVC two gang box on the inside of the foundation and the outside of the foundation and a piece of conduit going through the foundation, a threaded fitting glued on both ends and a hole drilled in the center of the back of the box on both sides with a nut attaching the conduit fitting to the box. With me so far?

The electrician did all this, i have NOTHING to do with this install, i will clarify why i am trying to solve this in a bit...

Ok, to continue... They ran the Romex from the main panel to the inside box, about a 20 foot run, drilled a hole in the side of the box (these are not the pre-punched boxes with breakouts but the type you see in a big box home improvement store with a foam gasket lid and a plain gray box) for the NM connector to hold the Romex. (sorry if i get any of the terminology wrong its not my day job, LOL) Then from the inside box to the outside box they ran THWN wire, from the splice in the inside box to the panel in the garage is a total run of about 35 feet, wire nuts on all conductors making the splice in the inside box. The outside box has what i believe you call a liquid-tite flexible conduit connector in the bottom side facing the ground, it appears to be a wet location one with a gasket and its like a cable gland we use installing outdoor and DB networking cable, from there its liquid-tite NM flexible conduit down the side of the foundation, about two feet and goes into the ground, they hand dug a trench across about six feet of ground, then tunneled under a four foot wide sidewalk, then through about six more feet of ground to the side of the garage. The garage is brick, so they attached the flexible conduit about five foot up the side of the garage, drilled through the brick, and installed a conduit body on the end of the flexible conduit, it appears to be simply glued onto the end of the conduit and then the right angle exit had another piece of rigid conduit glued into it to make a stub with a threaded fitting glued on the inside end to attach it to the back of the small two breaker panel thats attached to the inside wall of the garage. From there of course one circuit is outlets, one circuit is lights, its not feeding much and thats really not where the concerns are.

Ok so i think i outlined as well as i could what this electrician did.

Now here is what i did for my part of the job... Networking cable, direct burial rated Cat6 and two runs of RG6 quad shielded coax from a junction box mounted on the inside of the foundation with Keystone plate and jacks for the network and the two coaxial cables, passes through the foundation wall through conduit attached to the back side of that junction box and on the outside i used a conduit body to make the right angle turn, from there straight conduit to the ground, a nice sweep to turn horizontal to the ground, and then fully enclosed in conduit about 50' to the garage wall, sweep up, conduit up the wall, conduit body to turn right angle, drilled hole in brick, conduit through brick, box inside attached to conduit, and again another plate with Keystones for the network and coaxial cables. The inspector wanted me to tear it all up as he said conduit wasn't necessary, tell that to the homeowner when something cuts through the cable in the future unprotected, and that i shouldn't have run my own conduit line for them since the electrician was already running conduit for his install... I basically turned and walked away at that point disgusted but i hear the arguing between him and the electrician and come back to hear the rest, and that left me pondering the rest of the day what this inspector was ranting about.

Here is my questions...

The inspector came by this job, and the reason i got tied into all this is i was responsible for running some networking cable and coaxial cable from the same house to the same garage. However i didn't touch the electrical install, nowhere near it actually. But in the process of the inspector looking over the electrical install he brought up some stuff that i know isn't right and also raised some questions as to the abilities of the electrician for future use in projects, this is why i am here, i need to see what others think.

1. He asked the electrician why he didn't run a larger conduit so that the networking and coaxial cables couldn't be run in the same line. Well my argument is you don't run networking cable and coaxial cable with AC, aka high voltage lines, in the same conduit, but he swore up and down how they should have been run together but i know better, at least i think i do! First off its just a no-no, but second off how did he expect the network cable and the coaxial cable to be handled at the garage panel end? It would have run into the sub-panel since it was directly connected to the back side of it through the wall. Still scratching my head over why an inspector would say this.

2. That the flexible conduit run is too long for the intended use and is not allowed, at which point he also mentions that the flexible conduit cannot be glued into the conduit body. Perhaps thats mainly for mains voltage? Because i have seen that done many times for networking bundles being passed from flexible conduit to a conduit body, but then we aren't dealing with high voltages so... He also said that UF cable should have been used inside the flexible conduit instead of separate THWN conductors... Huh?? Again i don't know much of the electrical code but one i hear from electricians on sites all the time is you don't run Romex through conduit of any kind, although UF is direct burial and outdoor rated isn't THWN suitable in conduit in wet locations? Correct me if i am wrong but even inside conduit if its outside and/or in the ground its considered a wet location correct?

3. Why go through all the trouble of the setup he did on the foundation wall with a box inside and outside and joined by a piece of conduit, could he not have just put a single box on the inside? Again this isn't my domain but i think it just looks like overkill and overbilling of materials using all that, but then i don't know the code involved with that other then i would assume going through the foundation is considered a wet location even before it gets to the outside? The main reason i am asking about this is the inspector wants to see the coaxial and network cables handled in a similar fashion, as i described above i used a right angle conduit body on the outside, its quicker and cleaner looking then another square box to make the downward transition... Considering 99% of the homes around here have their cable tv coax drilled through the concrete foundation and just standard RG6 passed through and a little caulking on both sides i think the overkill i did on my install of running rigid conduit from a box on the inside of the foundation wall to the garage outlet location, not located anywhere near the electrical entrance by the way, is more then sufficient and it looks clean and neat.

4. Tell me how the electrician should have better handled his install and how i should handle it? Basically i'm just a friend of the homeowner, but i hired the electrician to do the electrical part of this garage wiring because i'm no electrician, replace a receptacle, no problem, replace a switch, ok. Rough in something and have it all up to code, NO THANK YOU... Not my place. Should i tell him rip it all out start over, should i specify how anything should be done? I mean, not my place i know, he should know the code for doing his work, but enlighten me a bit here. If you were supervising the job being done by a licensed electrician tell me from your point of view what should i expect him to do in this case? Can he make simple changes or is this a complete junk it and start over?

At this time the electrical inspection has failed, although the inspector did say my install was overkill but he "will let it ride"... I'm like what? Maybe overkill, sure i could have direct buried the cables, but why risk replacement a few years from now when someone drives a planter stake or a spade through the cable. As is i ran two coaxial cables for the off chance they upgrade from cable to satellite or add an antenna input or some such, its also easier to pull a bad cable from a conduit and snake a new one in from behind then it is to dig the lawn up again in the future, his comments just really erked me...

If nothing else i feel better for ranting about it on here!! :)
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Section 2 is the area that stands out for me. Gluing the fitting to the flexible non metallic conduit would be first. FNMC is allowed to be buried with the assumption it is the right product. Depth of burial is unknown as is if it is subject to damage which the AHJ could determine at time of inspection. The inspector should have listed the code articles that were violated. Two circuits would mean that a GES must be installed along with the appropriate #of conductors (4) to the house. A lot of areas that could have red flagged the job that you have not given enough information for but coax not in the same conduit as the thwn, is not one of them.
 

augie47

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Tennessee
Occupation
State Electrical Inspector (Retired)
FWIW: My first concern would the the LFNC: (a) is it listed and marked for direct burial & (b) is it subject to physical damage where it emerges from the ground (in 95% of the cases I would say it was and thus not allowed); secondly, the glued LB may not be the "acceptable" method but it is done very often. My read is that the Coax and network cable could not share the conduit with the power conductors. Since he used a 12/3, one can assume its a shared neutral MWBC and no grounding electrode is normally needed in that case.
I see no problem with your LV install.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
FWIW: My first concern would the the LFNC: (a) is it listed and marked for direct burial & (b) is it subject to physical damage where it emerges from the ground (in 95% of the cases I would say it was and thus not allowed); secondly, the glued LB may not be the "acceptable" method but it is done very often. My read is that the Coax and network cable could not share the conduit with the power conductors. Since he used a 12/3, one can assume its a shared neutral MWBC and no grounding electrode is normally needed in that case.
I see no problem with your LV install.

The 12/3 feeds a panel with circuit breakers in a separate structure. I see it as a feeder.
 

Buck Parrish

Senior Member
Location
NC & IN
I fell asleep reading all that. But I'm back now. I'd like to hear the other two sides to the story. It might make it more exciting (understanding).
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Inspector was right that conduit for the communications wasn't necessary. But it also is not prohibited and is a very good method of providing physical protection, or even easy removal of cables someday down the road when a different type of cable may be needed.

One could pull communications in same "sleeve" as power if the power were a stand alone wiring method such as UF cable, the power and communications lines would need to separate before the jacket of the UF gets stripped for terminating though.

Raceway run between the two buildings that is not a complete system or does not contain conductors that are required to be in a raceway system is nothing more then a sleeve, and doesn't even need to be listed raceway either - just needs to be deemed suitable for the purpose - perhaps via 110.3(A) which doesn't necessarily leave us with any specific guidelines for this application.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
I fell asleep reading all that. But I'm back now. I'd like to hear the other two sides to the story. It might make it more exciting (understanding).

Sorry it was so long, i was trying to provide as much detail as possible so we didn't get in an endless loop of questions.

In regards to the cabling i did being in the same conduit, sleeve, container, raceway, etc, as the AC power i will never allow that due to interference concerns. I have seen network cabling run next to household wiring and it resulting in throughput speed issues due to the noise induced on the line, this all of course depends on the appliances and so forth that are running on that circuit but its easier to begin with by running them separate. And as pointed out by kwired standards and needs change and its a lot easier to replace a cable or upgrade one thats a simple conduit pull. For all i know we will be pulling the CAT cable out and replacing with fiber optic in the years to come, i'm seeing household fiber optic networking components getting cheaper every year, and recently wired (or would that be glassed, lol) a home office with fiber for a customer. They wanted to spend the big bucks! Although 10gb home networking is quite thrilling.

Ok so the flexible conduit has to be rated for direct burial as well? That i did not know, i will have to take a look at what exactly the stuff is that he used. I know its a non metallic flexible conduit and that it says liquid-tite on it along with some other printing that i didn't get a chance to read or check on.

Can anyone comment on the way he handled going through the foundation wall please? I was mainly concerned that he will replace the conduit and then the inspector will say that the use of those boxes and such isn't right either and i need him to get his work done so i can finish my stuff now. For the time being the work i did is not in question, but i have no idea what the electrician needs to do at this point to get his work passed. I didn't get a listing of the violations or problems, the inspector handed something to the electrician and they both stormed off and left. Starting to think i might have to hire another electrician to come in and sort this mess out now... UGHHHH
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
I fell asleep reading all that. But I'm back now. I'd like to hear the other two sides to the story. It might make it more exciting (understanding).

I don't know what other side of the story your looking for...

Thats the whole story, except for now the electrician disappeared to another job and isn't returning anyones phone calls as of this morning.... So i guess i should start asking how i should approach another electrician about fixing this job.
 

ActionDave

Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
Occupation
Licensed Electrician
I don't know what other side of the story your looking for...

Thats the whole story, except for now the electrician disappeared to another job and isn't returning anyones phone calls as of this morning.... So i guess i should start asking how i should approach another electrician about fixing this job.
Describe just the part through the foundation again please.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
Describe just the part through the foundation again please.

There is a 4x4 PVC box on the outside and the inside and joined with a piece of 1/2" conduit with a threaded adapter glued on each end and a nut inside the box, roughly in the middle of the back of both boxes. The question there is why not use a LB (conduit body) on the outside but i guess it works.
 

ActionDave

Chief Moderator
Staff member
Location
Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
Occupation
Licensed Electrician
There is a 4x4 PVC box on the outside and the inside and joined with a piece of 1/2" conduit with a threaded adapter glued on each end and a nut inside the box, roughly in the middle of the back of both boxes. The question there is why not use a LB (conduit body) on the outside but i guess it works.
Yes, you could use an LB. What you have will work.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
Yes, you could use an LB. What you have will work.

Ok good so that at least won't have to be re-done.

What about the use of the flexible conduit from the outside box to the sub-panel in the garage? Its buried in the ground and goes under a sidewalk slab. Should that be changed to rigid conduit instead? The inspector said that it was not suitable for the location used and it was beyond the 6 foot limit.

Going to call another electrician tomorrow and just wanted a good idea of what to say needs to be done so i can hopefully pass this job on to him and i don't have to be there supervising to make sure i don't hit another delay. At this point i am waiting for power to the garage so that i can finish my work, installing networking equipment and the entertainment equipment, etc.

Thanks!
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
I don't know what other side of the story your looking for...

Thats the whole story, except for now the electrician disappeared to another job and isn't returning anyones phone calls as of this morning.... So i guess i should start asking how i should approach another electrician about fixing this job.

Approach him after giving the first guy some time. I am getting closer to not answering phone calls at all until I am done with job I am on.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
Approach him after giving the first guy some time. I am getting closer to not answering phone calls at all until I am done with job I am on.

I can understand that from being on the service provider side as well... In this case i'm stuck inbetween a rock and a hard place since i handled hiring the electrician and i can't finish my job until he does, and to make matters worse he left this job unfinished. Would be nice if he would just pick up the dang phone, or reply to a text message. Whats odd is before the blowout with the inspector i could get a reply from him any time of day by text, and a phone call almost always went through, now its voicemail and no replies and i certainly didn't say anything to him to make him mad. I tried to defuse the situation and even offered him to help since his normal employee was out on leave, his wife had a baby, and yet here i sit looking at a pile of dirt, an angry homeowner, and a job i can't finish and get paid for with a couple grand in gear waiting to get installed. Last thing i need is the customer pulling out and screwing me to over his mistake, if it is a mistake.

That's the problem here guys, i'm no electrician, i know what i need to know to do the stuff i do. When the electrical stuff comes into play i grab my phone not a screwdriver. This day in age your one step from getting sued until your shorts are gone, and i like the stuff i do.

If the flexible conduit was ok and i could find documentation to support such, but i'm no NEC code guru and that stuff is confusing so my hats off to you guys that can roll it off your tongue like an encyclopedia, i could argue this with the inspector, push the dirt in the trench, and toss a little grass seed on it and bury the hatchet and move on. Right now its all wired up, sub-panel in the garage is done just needs the cover screwed on, all the outlets and switches and lights are roughed in, and i can and have installed a receptacle into a box and put the cover on, no rocket science there thankfully. But until i get the signoff on the install to the sub-panel i can't start closing stuff up and finish.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
FWIW: My first concern would the the LFNC: (a) is it listed and marked for direct burial & (b) is it subject to physical damage where it emerges from the ground (in 95% of the cases I would say it was and thus not allowed); secondly, the glued LB may not be the "acceptable" method but it is done very often. My read is that the Coax and network cable could not share the conduit with the power conductors. Since he used a 12/3, one can assume its a shared neutral MWBC and no grounding electrode is normally needed in that case.
I see no problem with your LV install.

I'm going to try and get a hold of the inspector today and work on these questions, A. is it listed and marked for direct burial, and if so why is not acceptable at the length it is. It is subject to damage which is why UF cable wasn't used without any protection over it, its along side a house and garage, subject to getting rubbing by the lawnmower, beat to death with the string trimmer, etc.

The LB being glued, ok i can see the arguments there, it wouldn't have taken much more time to put a connector on the end of the LFNC and then use a threaded LB instead, the guy had all these parts on the truck, so why he did it this way is i assume merely time and labor related. But that could be easily fixed as there is enough slack in the LFNC to cut and replace the LB at the garage with whatever the inspector sees necessary.

As for the shared neutral MWBC, i will have to do more reading on that, i think i know the details there but again not a NEC guru or electrician here, which is why i hire the guys that are. All i know for sure is between the house and the garage sub panel there is Red, Black, White, and Green, THWN 12awg which is connected to the 12/3 NM that goes from the panel to the box on the inside of the foundation wall. And in the sub panel the neutral is not bonded to the ground and he installed a separate ground bus which i remembered him complaining about not having the right one on the truck and had to bring it the next day he was out to finish that.

Now to call the inspector and find out whats what here..
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
As for the shared neutral MWBC, i will have to do more reading on that, i think i know the details there but again not a NEC guru or electrician here, which is why i hire the guys that are. All i know for sure is between the house and the garage sub panel there is Red, Black, White, and Green, THWN 12awg which is connected to the 12/3 NM that goes from the panel to the box on the inside of the foundation wall. And in the sub panel the neutral is not bonded to the ground and he installed a separate ground bus which i remembered him complaining about not having the right one on the truck and had to bring it the next day he was out to finish that.

This part is compliant however he also needs to install ground rods unless he is connected to a concrete encased electrode- which I doubt.
 

kb0nly

Member
Location
MN, USA
This part is compliant however he also needs to install ground rods unless he is connected to a concrete encased electrode- which I doubt.

Ok i will mention that to the inspector as well, meeting with him in about a half hour. I do know there is ground rods at the service entrance to the house, but i don't think he put a ground rod at the garage. I was planning on doing that near my cable entry for grounding the surge arrestors on the coaxial lines and network cabling.

Thanks! We are getting closer to resolution i think.
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
but i don't think he put a ground rod at the garage. I was planning on doing that near my cable entry for grounding the surge arrestors on the coaxial lines and network cabling.

that would not be compliant. you cannot have your own set of grounding electrodes for these cables. you are required to use the ones that are supposed to already be there. there should be an intersystem bonding bridge for you to connect to.
 
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