Fein Multimaster

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TOOL_5150 said:
I was mostly joking around, but I didnt even get one positive comment yet. Oh well, dinner time and I am starting a 4 day weekend - all is good. :grin:
Actually, with the intersecting-wall stud where it is, I don't think you weakened it enough to matter anyway. Besides, drywall adds a whole lotta strength to a wall, and removing one stud from a non-load-bearing wall has minimal risk.

That cut would be difficult to do with a reciprocating saw, which is how I do it. I also would have used a 3-gang plastic OWB if I were doing it, but you gave yourself a sturdier mounting, presuming you screwed into the notched stud.

I'd like one of those tools, too, but I can't afford it right now. (And yes, I know a recip pokes holes on the backside of the wall if you're not careful. :cool:) If they'd only spelled the name right. :roll:


Anyway, bravo! Well done!
 
LarryFine said:
Actually, with the intersecting-wall stud where it is, I don't think you weakened it enough to matter anyway. Besides, drywall adds a whole lotta strength to a wall, and removing one stud from a non-load-bearing wall has minimal risk.

That cut would be difficult to do with a reciprocating saw, which is how I do it. I also would have used a 3-gang plastic OWB if I were doing it, but you gave yourself a sturdier mounting, presuming you screwed into the notched stud.

I'd like one of those tools, too, but I can't afford it right now. (And yes, I know a recip pokes holes on the backside of the wall if you're not careful. :cool:) If they'd only spelled the name right. :roll:


Anyway, bravo! Well done!


:D

~Matt
 
I also own this tool and have come to like it for cutting holes in drywall. It is fairly fast, leaves a nice cut, but best of all it does not produce the same amount of dust as rotozip, recep saw, keyhole saw, etc would make. I generally do this when cutting holes to drill thru a studs, etc in an accupied home where dust can be an issue. I also like to keep a shop vac next to me to hold next to the blade as i cut.

This tool is pricey, but there are times i do not know how i could get by without it.
 
Bought one off Craigslist.com for $220.00 with variable speed. Blades are expensive at about $45.00.

This is an awesome tool. I used one for a while when I worked for at buddies cabinet business. Cutting a junction box into 3/4 material like cabinets, baseboards or paneling is a breeze and you don't risk splintering or damaging the surface of the wood.

Couldn't live without one now.
 
TOOL_5150 said:
That picture is from the garage looking in. Its right next to a door, which studs are still fully in tact.

~Matt

Does the door have a doubled up stud on both sides after this notch was taken out? If so, nice job - and your pic surely shows what a versatile tool this is. What blade (or blades) did you use? Can you post a pic? Is that a stud laid flat that sits behind the MC? Otherwise that doesn't appear to be a full 2" x 4" that you notched.

If the door wasn't left with doubled up studs on both side, complete with header, than I'd be a little concerned from a structural standpoint.

Nice tool!
 
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I personally don't own one of these gadgets [YET] but in the various carpenter forums [JLConline and Taunton's Breaktime] I visit, there are discussions of making your own replacement blades. Something like going to The Home Depot and buying a cheep handsaw for $20 and cutting it up into four blades for the MultiMaster.
Also somebody on E-Bay sells a version. Fein tries to stop this and invented the star mounting hole to defeat this.
Soon, Dremel or perhaps DeWalt will come out with a cheaper version.
~Peter
 
bjp_ne_elec said:
Does the door have a doubled up stud on both sides after this notch was taken out? If so, nice job - and your pic surely shows what a versatile tool this is. What blade (or blades) did you use? Can you post a pic? Is that a stud laid flat that sits behind the MC? Otherwise that doesn't appear to be a full 2" x 4" that you notched.

If the door wasn't left with doubled up studs on both side, complete with header, than I'd be a little concerned from a structural standpoint.

Nice tool!


The door has doubled studs on both sides, which have not been cut in any way. I used the E cut blade that came with the tool. as far as the framing... I believe it is a full 2x4 flat, then to the left of it is another 2x4 which I notched. Inside, right behind the flat 2x4 is a wall that divides a bedroom and the laundry.

the blade:
ecut.jpg


It can plunge cut up to 2"

~Matt
 
peter said:
I personally don't own one of these gadgets [YET] but in the various carpenter forums [JLConline and Taunton's Breaktime] I visit, there are discussions of making your own replacement blades. Something like going to The Home Depot and buying a cheep handsaw for $20 and cutting it up into four blades for the MultiMaster.
Also somebody on E-Bay sells a version. Fein tries to stop this and invented the star mounting hole to defeat this.
Soon, Dremel or perhaps DeWalt will come out with a cheaper version.
~Peter


hmm all you have to do is find someone with a waterjet or laser cutter and you could make a TON of blades for $75 to $100 worth of cutter time
 
aline said:
Anyone have experience with the tool in the link below. I was looking at a rental property remodel job today and the property owner's maintenance man said this tool is great for cutting boxes into baseboards and lathe & plaster walls. I'm considering buying one but thought I'd see if anyone had any experience with it first and what they though about it.

https://www.4multimaster.com/vcc/feinpowertools/multimaster/190648/


there's a couple flavors of this tool, and the one you want is the newer
one with the quick release blade attachment, and variable speed.

here's an example.... finished kitchen cabinet installed, with backing
in cabinet, over two layers of 5/8" sheetrock. behind that turned out
to be a 1x6 sway brace. cutting in a box for a plug for the cooktop,
inside the cabinet.

lay out the box, and start making plunge cuts. after you get
everything cut out of the way, the hole is half over a stud as
well. continue, and notch the stud as well. it cuts a perfect hole,
and the above hole took about 4-5 minutes to do, and the
resulting work looks like it was laser cut, working upside down
and backwards under the cabinet.

or, cutting in a can light, and find you have a rafter you have
to notch an inch, in a 4" can light hole. not accessible from above.
plunge cut, and break out the notch with channellocks.

or, notch a 2x6 corner of a house to put a 2" nipple in the side of a
panel... cut the plaster, and plunge cut 5" to the can. use an LB
and a ridgid nipple, and fill the entire void with structural epoxy.

i wouldn't have a work truck without one. now, the downside. the cost
of the blades, is breathtaking. the bi metal one pictured is over
$40.

each.

and these things are fair traded. no price break to speak of..

guy on ebay from san francisco sells blades he makes himself
that work well, at about $13 each. that's what i use.

if you are going to cut drywall, it eats up teeth quickly. use
an old wood blade for drywall service, and don't reuse it for
anything else, like wood.

using a blade that has lost most of it's teeth on drywall to make
plunge cuts in wood can generate enough heat to set the wood
smoldering, if not on fire.

don't ask how i know this. you don't want to know. really.

let me tell you that those arrowhead sports water bottles
are worth their weight in gold, when trying to cool down a
rafter thru a 4" hole in the ceiling. that little squirty nozzle thing
is your friend.

if you don't have one of these things, then you don't know
how badly you need one. i still use my drywall saw for most
things, but when you need to do surgical dissection of a wall,
nothing else even comes close.


randy
 
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