Finding the breaker alone

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kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
almost every tester I have seen has various adapters, and typically one with alligator clips. Some have an inductive clamp as well. IF not, just make one up. Connect one to the yoke and the other to the line side screw with the switch off, dont have to touch anything hot.
Still might require to loosen and pull the switch out of the box while it is live so you can gain access to connect the tracer, but that may still be better choice than doing the entire changeout while energized.

If you were in a troubleshooting situation and determined the switch was bad, you may already have it pulled out of the box anyway, just clip leads with alligator clips on the hot conductor and something grounded and you have power for the tracer, or something to connect radio, flasher with light, or other mentioned items to.
 

winnie

Senior Member
Location
Springfield, MA, USA
Occupation
Electric motor research
If the only approach suitable to a situation is turning off breakers, then you should know about the 'binary search'. This minimizes the number of trips necessary to locate a breaker.

At the panel you turn off _half_ the possible breakers, and check the state of the circuit. This eliminates half of the breakers as a possibility at each trip between panel and circuit. For 30 breakers this means 5 trips.

Not the ideal method; circuit tracers are probably better but if you are forced to use the 'flip breakers' technique this helps minimize the trips.

You can also use this technique to _map_ all of the outlets to circuits. You number your breakers in binary and check the entire panel '1 bit' at a time.

Say you have 64 breakers. You number them 000000, 000001, 000010, ..., 111111.

Now you start with the leftmost bit. Every breaker with a 0 in the left most position gets turned off.
Go through the house and at each outlet label anything on with a 1, anything off with a 0.

Go back to the panel, and look at the second to the left bit. Every breaker with a 0 in the second left position should be off, with a 1 should be on.
Go through the house and at each outlet add the next digit to the label, 1 for on, 0 for off.

Continue these steps for a total of 6 times. At the end of this _every_ outlet will be labeled with a binary number that corresponds to the circuit breaker controlling it.

(Tedious, but systematic. It gets everything. Unless two circuits are crossed. *sniff*)

-Jon
 

Greg1707

Senior Member
Location
Alexandria, VA
Occupation
Business owner Electrical contractor
Why not the main breaker?
I stopped doing that. One time I turned off the main breaker and it would not reset. There was something wrong with mechanism and it would not catch when I tried to reset it. I was there to replace a GFCI on the third floor and wanted to save time.
 

ggunn

PE (Electrical), NABCEP certified
Location
Austin, TX, USA
Occupation
Consulting Electrical Engineer - Photovoltaic Systems
I stopped doing that. One time I turned off the main breaker and it would not reset. There was something wrong with mechanism and it would not catch when I tried to reset it. I was there to replace a GFCI on the third floor and wanted to save time.
Sounds like it needed replacing anyway.
 

stedder

Member
About 20± years ago I was sniffing around ebay and found something called a screamer. Small plug in tester that has a few connection options (pigtail with alligators, socket adapter) and give high decibel "scream" that can be switched to lower decibel. I have used it many times, easily heard from basement of a large two storey Victorian style home. Able to find and mark all circuits in 3 or so hours. Still requires cardio and leg exercise but...
These days I don't hear as well but can still discern the tone from others that may be going on. I haven't been able to find them again but there may be something else newer out there. It also has a GFI tester.
 

Fred B

Senior Member
Location
Upstate, NY
Occupation
Electrician
Over the years I've used multiple different circuit tracers. Some were better than others. One issue that repeatedly presented was interference from "something" causing loss or tranference so much that accurate location not possible, regardless of how expensive the tracer was. Not sure what on some select residences that the tracers will have so much static that distinguishing the signal from the tracer is imperseptable. Others houses have no issue at all and receive a very strong audible signal.
 
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