Fire Rated wall

[1793]

You have a much bigger concern.
That is you are putting a recessed fixture in a fire rated ceiling. You have to box around the fixture with two layers of 5/8" sheetrock. Or they do make a fire rated cap that I've used before. But they're about $200 bucks per fixture. The switch in the fire rated wall cannot be within two feet of an outlet on the other side of the wall.

The ceilings to my knowledge are not considered Fire rated.

The switch box will need to be connected to a structural member like a stud. You cannot install a style of box that is only supported by the sheetrock.

That is what I thought, I just did not have the resource available to me at this time to reference.

This does not sound like a true "Fire Wall", this sounds like a fire rated partition or assembly. You will be penetrating one side only which means you will only be penetrating the "memberane" of the assembly, not through the entire assembly itself. There is a difference with how they are handled.

So would I still need to support the new box(s) to the structure? I think yes.

Here's a link from 3M that is very informative.

Great link, thanks

Anyway most of the high rises around here - at least the newer ones have PT slabs that act as the deck above - poured in pendant boxes - and intumesant paint... The rooms and halls often have a soffeted area for HVAC - sometimes as parts rocked off as plenum - and you can add any cans you want - no additional measures... (Except in the plenum...) And always rocked off from common areas and other units...

The walls however are a different story. Usually inner tenant walls can be treated as normal. But any partitions between units, or common areas are 1-2 hour rated.

Anyway - the building managment IMO is usually pretty intimate with the fire protection measures and wall/cieling ratings of their building - I ask 'em. Sometimes a good way to start a relationship for more work..

I'll check that out thanks.

I have been told that wall I am planning on getting power from does NOT back up to another Unit but It backs up a stairwell.

If there is no electric on the other side and or no power within 24" then do I still need to use Putty Pad on the metal box for the switch?

 

[JFletcher]

I have been told that wall I am planning on getting power from does NOT back up to another Unit but It backs up a stairwell.

That's a whole different animal. Take a look at NFPA 101 Chapter 7.

I ran into an instance in a new con hotel two years ago where the AHJ made us remove the v/d/v and the EC the electrical from the wall between the guest rooms and the stairwell. I do not know what code he cited*, but everyone wound up running wiremold in the four rooms on that wall instead of in the wall.

*ETA: I can't find the exact section, but I believe it was based off of something similar to this:

http://www.miami-airport.com/LSMP/Vol1/428v2.pdf

see the bottom of page 2 and page 3.

I would check with the AHJ to see if this installation is permissible.

 

[cowboyjwc]

The ceilings to my knowledge are not considered Fire rated.



That is what I thought, I just did not have the resource available to me at this time to reference.



So would I still need to support the new box(s) to the structure? I think yes.



Great link, thanks



I'll check that out thanks.

I have been told that wall I am planning on getting power from does NOT back up to another Unit but It backs up a stairwell.

If there is no electric on the other side and or no power within 24" then do I still need to use Putty Pad on the metal box for the switch?

You don't need a fire pad, but you may want to stick a sound pad on there. That wall is still a rated wall.

 

[1793]

You don't need a fire pad, but you may want to stick a sound pad on there. That wall is still a rated wall.

Thanks. It looks like I'll be making some work for the dry-waller to mount the box. I'll look to see if I can find the Sound Pads locally.

 

[cowboyjwc]

Thanks. It looks like I'll be making some work for the dry-waller to mount the box. I'll look to see if I can find the Sound Pads locally.

You shouldn't have any problem finding sound pads, I think you can even get them at the big box stores.

Let's make a friendly bet. I'll bet that the drywaller doesn't fix your cut outs correctly. To repair a fire wall the drywall has to be cut stud to stud. It can have a horizontal tape joint as long as it doesn't match up with the one on the other side, they have to be stagered 24".

The bet will be is that if I win Larry can't crack a joke for a week and if you win Larry can't crack a joke for a week. Picked on with admiration in my heart Larry.