Fishing and terminating mc cable

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codeunderstanding

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When fishing mc cable down walls and terminating it in a remodel box is there any tricks you can use to get the connector in the box and put the box in the wall? I always have to put the cable in half way put box in wall then pull down on cable to get it to seat in box. Also what connectors work best for this type of installation?
 
Fork it! There's a special 'fork' for grabbing the threads on the connector, freeing you up to install the locknut.


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fork2.jpg


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480sparky said:
Fork it! There's a special 'fork' for grabbing the threads on the connector, freeing you up to install the locknut.


fork1.jpg


fork2.jpg


fork3.jpg
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Never heard of that fork or seen that. Does that work with the snap in connectors to?
 
If you use and old work box, make sure it is listed for use with MC cable. I have had to write up quite a few correction notices for electricians that use old work boxes with clamps that were only listed for non-metallic cable.

Chris
 
Its not a clamp screw anymore. No clamp.
Why waste a green screw when the box has an extra one.

This is the way I always have done it and never had an issue with it.
 
tkb said:
Its not a clamp screw anymore. No clamp.
Why waste a green screw when the box has an extra one.

This is the way I always have done it and never had an issue with it.
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I was just being a pot stirrer. :D We've had the discussion before about the clamp screw and I agree with what you said.
 
Maybe I'm the only one who does it this way; I mark and cut out my box. I now have my hole in the wall, I snake the cable down into the hole. Take the old work box knock the knockout out, put the connector in at this point. Strip back cable, put it through connector already in box, tighten connector, put box into wall, put on madisons, done.

If you're thinking "the connector hits the top of the drywall cutout and the box doesn't go in easily" try this, take your jab saw and shave the inner part of the drywall where the connector is located, it will go in easier, never have gap problems doing this either as the face of the drywall does not get touched.
 
If you're running MC in an old work situation, you really need to think about the fire rating of the walls you're putting old work boxes in. There are only a very few compliant ways to add a box in an old work situation in a rated assembly.
 
mdshunk said:
If you're running MC in an old work situation, you really need to think about the fire rating of the walls you're putting old work boxes in. There are only a very few compliant ways to add a box in an old work situation in a rated assembly.
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Caddy H23 bracket mounted to stud is easiest. Putty pad if another opening is within 24" horizontally. Usually requires drywall patching.
 
mdshunk said:
I've done it a few times, but it was for em lights and exits. They cover up pretty big wounds! I'm not proud of it, but it is what it is.
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Those are probably the only things that would cover it. ;)
 
peter d said:
Kinda hard to use an H23 in old work. ;)
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That is true, but it is my understanding that a box in a firewall must be attached to the structure and that cut-ins as far as I know can't meet this requirement, unless there's a box I don't know about designed to cut into a firewall?
 
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