General can light question...

[melanconelectric]

Hubbell Prescolite cans and you can take the hangers and turn them to where you can get it in a space of about 8 inches.

 

[iaov]

Any good/experienced GC would have spotted this during framing.... And if this "I-joist Designer" had an iota of experience past the math for the loads above - he would have too..... So let me guess - they didn't line up the KO's either?!?!? :roll:

Now I'm going to make a suggestion that may be beyond the scope of your position in the design side of it all.... Allow me to install my 'lisp'....

Surface mounted ceiling and wall sconces.....

Often much more ambient light output per, over a 1/2 dozen cans..... And 'pretty' if you get some nice ones.... :grin:

Heresy, blasphemy, but alas a very good idea. IMHO cans are over rated.:grin:

 

[Engineer83]

Sawzalls work wonders! "When in doubt, cut it out"

It is sad that whoever it may be doing the layouts, can't think ahead or at visualize another trades equipment. One project I was on had the electrical panels on a wall conveniently above a 2 foot concrete beam. No problem for the overhead equipment, but the main library open area had many poke throughs that obviously needed to be fed from below.

On another project, the architect/plumbing engineer laid out the water closets right above several steel beams. Of course, this wasn't realized until after the plumber started coring the floors.

 

[c2500]

Well I went by and saw the inspector this morning to ask if the remodel cans were ok? He nixed it immediately, saying the were for remodels only (I have got to remember to ask for forgiveness...not permission). So I think I will be off and inch or so using another brand of can. The room is 15' wide so it should not be noticable. Such is life...

c2500

 

[A/A Fuel GTX]

That's ridiculas. Ask him to cite a code reference prohibiting it.

 

[electricmanscott]

saw the inspector this morning to ask if the remodel cans were ok? He nixed it immediately, saying the were for remodels only

Inspectional services...where braindead electricians go to die....

Another senseless inspector.

 

[c2500]

That's ridiculas. Ask him to cite a code reference prohibiting it.

You know, I could but........he said he does not want it done that way. (A city inspector) and while I might win the battle, it is not worth it. I prefer to have an amicable relationship. And yes I have repaired stuff in the past that I did not touch to apease him (the homeowner foot the bill for the extra time and theoretically was the right thing to do). I just do not feel that strongly over the whole thing to go over his head.

c2500

 

[e57]

Well I went by and saw the inspector this morning to ask if the remodel cans were ok? He nixed it immediately, saying the were for remodels only~

In CA depending on what floor you are on (top) - RT cans would be illegal due to energy codes.... (air-tight) Many other floors too depending on the can type due to IC ratings.... Think it the same in Washington as well????

Anyway, what do they think about dropping the cieling say ~8"? :roll:

 

[A/A Fuel GTX]

It just irritates me when authority goes to ones head which IMO we have here. I look at inspectors as mentors and a source of information when I need questions answered. I wouldn't be rude to him but I sure would like to know where he came up with this ruling he gave you. After all, I you are putting in a can after the sheetrock is up.....It Is Remodeling.:grin:

 

[dhducati]

Anyway, I cannot make the math work with Halo 6's, or 5s in the kitchen. Does anyone know of another brand, that including the bracket, can get you closer than 3 1/2 inches to the joist? I am considering just running the wire and go back with remodel cans once the drywall is up.

Which Halo cans do you mean? The H7 and H5 series new-construction cans get to about an inch from the joist in the direction that the brackets slide. They are similar in geometry to the Progress P87 cans that were also mentioned.

 

[e57]

Popping back in here - if you do RT cans - what do you do about lighting for the final inspection before you fish in all this wire for the RT cans? How are you gonna lay them out post de facto since you can't seem to lay them out now? Is all you need the 1/2 - 1"? Who is moving the furnature around, site protection, getting the owner off your back?

 

[iaov]

Many of the people I have worked with over the years will over-lay the plans in many framing issues and lay it out accordingly - 'proffessionals'! Why? because they have had to deal with the lack of planning in the past and learned from the mistake.... 'holes not lined up' is a lack of courtesy, or or ignorance IMO - Sure you can pop your own easy enough - I use a bunch of practically disposable spade bits - cheal and really easy to sharpen as the glue buns any bit out quick....



They do my friend they do.... Been on a number of them.

Never thought of drilling wood with a Uni-Bit. I use the cheap spade bits for the above reasons.

 

[electricmanscott]

Popping back in here - if you do RT cans - what do you do about lighting for the final inspection before you fish in all this wire for the RT cans? How are you gonna lay them out post de facto since you can't seem to lay them out now? Is all you need the 1/2 - 1"? Who is moving the furnature around, site protection, getting the owner off your back?

Run the wire now, make a drawing with measurements, cut in when doing finish, done. Not a big deal.

I do this all the time with kitchens. Islands seem to get moved once the cabinets go in and the customer sees how much or little room they have around them.