HDMI cable behind wall?

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sfav8r

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San Francisco Bay Area
We have a project where we're prewiring for some flat panel TVs and audio distribution. The Tivos, Amps, etc will be mounted in an enclosure about 10 feet from the TV (about 30' as the wire will run due to up and down walls). What is typically run from the equipment to the TV? The only requirement as far as the TV is concerned is an HDMI cable. The ends of an HDMI cable are pretty big, are these ever field crimped? I suspect the stock HDMI cables are not rated for installation behind sheetrock.
 
2" pvc between locations (may have to use smaller pipe if going horizontal to prevent compromising structural integrity). i usually put a 2 gang LV box on each end (not attached to the pipe, just above it or below it) and leave some poly-line in the pipe. i've seen some guys attach home vac system boxes to the ends of the pipe.

this pic was taken before i installed the pipe, but the red line shows the path it took from the cabinet below to the flat screen in the center of the wall. there are 2 gang LV boxes (orange open back box) on the bottom and top.

radney_ent.JPG
 
A carlon Box ?

A carlon Box ?

I looked for it but could recall who made it but a plastic box thats indented 45?, maybe someone can repost this box ! ?
 
Let me get back to you tomorrow. I do AV installs, and I know of some neat stuff, like HDMI and DVI cables with small inlline connectors for fishing through holes and conduits smaller than the end plugs.
 
sfav8r said:
We have a project where we're prewiring for some flat panel TVs and audio distribution. The Tivos, Amps, etc will be mounted in an enclosure about 10 feet from the TV (about 30' as the wire will run due to up and down walls). What is typically run from the equipment to the TV? The only requirement as far as the TV is concerned is an HDMI cable. The ends of an HDMI cable are pretty big, are these ever field crimped? I suspect the stock HDMI cables are not rated for installation behind sheetrock.
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HDMI isn't really that big. I'm wondering if you're thinking DVI. Neither of which has field-installable terminations due to specifications compliance. The closest you'll be able to get would be fiber or CAT-5 baluns, which are ridiculously expensive. (the copper solutions I've seen require one shielded and one unshielded cable)

I'm all for conduit. You never know what the next big thing is going to be... I've seen installs with 2" PVC. IMHO that's overkill today, it made sense when DVI was the best video standard. I'd think that 1" would suffice for now and the future, as there was such a big deal made about the smaller footprint for HDMI, as well as the general shift in the electronics industry to serial protocols and smaller connectors (Parallel > USB; ATA > SATA; DVI > HDMI)

My personal preference is Smurf / ENT. I'd probably go for 1.5" for a TV or projector since you have a higher pulling resistance.

Also, if you're pre-wiring for distributed audio be sure and loop your speaker wires through the keypad and back to the amp. Pretty much everything I've seen is CAT5 to the keypad, but some homerun the speakers to the amp, whereas others connect the speakers to the keypad (A-bus, etc) You also have the option of using simple volume controls off a shared amp...
 
I use a 2" flexible pool equipment pipe and put a mud ring at each end. It is easy to run in awkward areas, say above zero clearance fieplaces, and it is a breeze to pull RCA and HDMI cables through.
 
Shhessh guys, the guy just posts a picture to help out another guy and you have to bust his chops?

Straight up to the attic (How do you know there even is one?) . Why? You want the cable runs to be as short as possible, and who wants to go climbing through an ttic on the install rather than pulling the cable 6 feet through the pipe in the same room. And who's to say the studs were butchered? Ever hear of a hole saw?

Now I feel better! :grin:
 
I'm glad I don't do residential anymore. Seems they've found materials cheaper than pressboard, flakeboard, and particle board. Amazing what people are paying for homes where the #1 ingredient is glue, and any minor leak will spell disaster.
 
LawnGuyLandSparky said:
I'm glad I don't do residential anymore. Seems they've found materials cheaper than pressboard, flakeboard, and particle board. Amazing what people are paying for homes where the #1 ingredient is glue, and any minor leak will spell disaster.
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Slighty overdramatic maybe?
 
LawnGuyLandSparky said:
I'm glad I don't do residential anymore. Seems they've found materials cheaper than pressboard, flakeboard, and particle board. Amazing what people are paying for homes where the #1 ingredient is glue, and any minor leak will spell disaster.
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I disagree. I think if you compare dollar for dollar......... you get a better house today than ever. I know there are poorly built houses today but those are built on the cheap.
 
celtic said:
Curious why you haven't chosen this route in blue?

One less 90? to contend with...



radney_entEDIT.jpg
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I can answer that. It is easier to drill sideways thru the studs standing on the floor with the drill against you hip that to drill standing on a ladder. 30 year rope stringer knows drills.
 
electricamanscott said:
I would have gone all of the way up to the attic with back to back 90s to avoid butchering out all of those studs
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Shhessh guys, the guy just posts a picture to help out another guy and you have to bust his chops?

Straight up to the attic (How do you know there even is one?) . Why? You want the cable runs to be as short as possible, and who wants to go climbing through an ttic on the install rather than pulling the cable 6 feet through the pipe in the same room. And who's to say the studs were butchered? Ever hear of a hole saw?

Now I feel better! :grin:​
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I don't believe there is an attic. That doesn't mean you couldn't go above ceiling with 2 90s. No question it would take more cable to go above ceiling.

And there would be fewer holes to drill.

Now I feel better!!:D :D


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Curious why you haven't chosen this route in blue?
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red was all i had on the truck. :D (personal preference to have pipe directly underneath or overhead of the box).


the attic is 16' AFF; shorter cables cost less $$$.
 
the attic is 16' AFF.

Brant, where did you get your measurement. It looks to me to be no more than 14' AFF, and it doesn't look like an attic to me.
 
Any A/V job I have seen they never installs HDMI cables, they just use bulk component cable and install the fittings at trim out..., which is fine, HDMI is over rated anyway, also, I always use the TV for video switching, which would require wires for each device, (dvd, satellite, cable box, etc...)
 
dlhoule said:
the attic is 16' AFF.

Brant, where did you get your measurement. It looks to me to be no more than 14' AFF, and it doesn't look like an attic to me.
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the rooms you see behind the wall w/ the pipe (closet & bath) have 12' ceilings, but the living room goes up to 16' ceiling. its all floored w/ osb, along w/ the backside of that wall where it rises above the 12' ceiling. i don't think you can tell from the pic, but all the ceiling joists had to be drilled for the wire like you would on a two-story. the osb on the backside of the wall i think was for insulation. the house is now full of that spray-foam insulation (iceynene??)
 
stickboy1375 said:
Any A/V job I have seen they never installs HDMI cables, they just use bulk component cable and install the fittings at trim out..., which is fine, HDMI is over rated anyway, also, I always use the TV for video switching, which would require wires for each device, (dvd, satellite, cable box, etc...)
Click to expand...

The only reason for HDMI (IMO) is that some receivers will upconvert lesser signals to 1080i and then you must use the HDMI. Typically I use the component cables, too.
 
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