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testing the circuit with load described in my prevoius post removes all doubt.
I agree, I would want to remove any doubt in the meter readings.
testing the circuit with load described in my prevoius post removes all doubt.
I think you were saying --- I disconnected the neutral wire of the cord from the neutral terminal in the dryer. Then I read 245 line to line, 110 from one line to the cord neutral, and 117 from the other line to the cord neutral.I check for continuity, everything is OK. I pluged the cord, and check the connections at the dryer, 245V L1-L2, and 65V L1-n, 178V L2-N. Loose nuetral or broken neutral in cord. Idisconnect the neutral from the cord at dryer connection.I get 245, 110, and 117V at the cord, when i check at the dryer is showing open neutral though.
Make up a 3 wire drop cord, lug it into the orignal dryer breaker and plug the dryer in. If the dryer functions properly then something is wrong with the orignal circ. from the panel to the dryer plug. If it doesn't function properly then it should be something in the panel. Could be as simple as a bad breaker. Since you did not mention anything else going wrong other than the dryer chances are you can rule out a bad poco neutral.
So even using a solenoid tester could leave room for error? I see, thanks guys.I agree, I would want to remove any doubt in the meter readings.testing the circuit with load described in my prevoius post removes all doubt.
They now called me all worked out, they want me back and the guy even told me that it's got to work this time since they already paid me. Hell of a nerve.
High-impedance voltmeter. Once again, a solenoid-type tester would expose it.
To add, what I meant is that a low-impedance load (such as a solenoid tester, a 100w bulb, or a dryer's line-to-neutral loads) will expose the voltage differences, while a high-impedance meter won't.
The voltages must remain balanced (within a small range) under load for the load to function properly with line-to-neutral loads. Line-to-line-only loads have no 120v components.
Any ol' time.
100207-0939 EST
Charlie Bob:
My following comments may seem harsh, but treat your problem as a learning experience.
You have been instructed correctly above to use a large load to test a circuit for problems with poor connections.
Your customer was perfectly correct in telling you to solve the problem at your expense. Your customer went to the extra expense to buy a new dryer because you probably incorrectly diagnosed the problem.
A question without an answer yet --- did the new dryer come with a new cord and plug? This might be critical as to whether the misdiagnose was all your problem. Note: you could have done a resistance check on the neutral conductor in the cord.
Your following statement from the first post is not at all clear:
I think you were saying --- I disconnected the neutral wire of the cord from the neutral terminal in the dryer. Then I read 245 line to line, 110 from one line to the cord neutral, and 117 from the other line to the cord neutral.
Note: 110 +117 = 227 is not 245. This should be a red flag.
I have no idea what you meant by " when i check at the dryer is showing open neutral". Checked what, and open neutral where?
Your problem is a good illustration of why an understanding of electrical theory, and how various instruments work is important.
I favor using a high impedance voltmeter and when needed adding a shunt load like a 1500 W heater to check for a high impedance source. But I am not an electrician and a Wiggy as an only tool would be more convenient.
You could have a poor connection, assume 5 ohms, in the neutral. I do not know the impedance of a Wiggy, but I will guess at 1000 ohms. A change of 5 ohms in 1000 ohms at 120 V only produces a voltage change of 120*5/1000 = 0.6 V. By comparison a 1500 W heater when hot is about 10 ohms. A 120 V source with a 5 ohm and 10 resistor in series as the load will produce about 120*10/15 = 80 V across the 10 ohm (heater) load.
Using a modern high end high impedance digital voltmeter should give you 0.1 V resolution on a range reading 120 V. One can not realistically put a continuous 1500 W resistor for 120 V in this meter. You can do a lot of useful troubleshooting or circuit tracing with a meter with 0.1 V resolution, and an external 1500 W load.
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I have a short test cord with alligator clips on one end and a 15 amp connector on the other. I would connect this to the circuit in question and plug in my electric heat gun to put a 1500 watt load on the circuit. If there is a connection issue somewhere on the circuit it will show itself fairly quick with that kind of a load on it.
The latter.Is a "wiggy" a high impedance, or low impedance?
Isn't that for $100k+ talent?The latter.
"I'm so confused!" ~ Vinnie BarbarinoIsn't that for $100k+ talent?