How would you do it.....

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From a design standpoint, you should try to get your anchors in horizontally. The 1/4" platic anchors would have held forever if the weight wasn't pulling straight down.

It seems like a waste of time and effort to hang strut and then hang the conduit on the strut.

I'd use something like this on the conduits and simply anchor them with 1/4" plastic anchors.

Pipe-Strap-1RUX2_AS01.JPG


For those who suggest Zamacs, if you are talking about the drive pin style anchors, I hate you. Everything has to come off at some point. Screws are our friends. :)
 
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220/221 said:
From a design standpoint, you should try to get your anchors in horizontally. The 1/4" platic anchors would have held forever if the weight wasn't pulling straight down.

I'd use something like this on the conduits and simply anchor them with 1/4" plastic anchors.

Pipe-Strap-1RUX2_AS01.JPG


For those who suggest Zamacs, if you are talking about the drive pin style anchors, I hate you. Everything has to come off at some point. Screws are our friends. :)
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I like it. Have a link or name for the item in the photo?
 
220/221 said:
From a design standpoint, you should try to get your anchors in horizontally. The 1/4" platic anchors would have held forever if the weight wasn't pulling straight down.

It seems like a waste of time and effort to hang strut and then hang the conduit on the strut.

I'd use something like this on the conduits and simply anchor them with 1/4" plastic anchors.

Pipe-Strap-1RUX2_AS01.JPG


For those who suggest Zamacs, if you are talking about the drive pin style anchors, I hate you. Everything has to come off at some point. Screws are our friends. :)
Click to expand...

I don't think I have ever seen this hanger before.
Is it an electrical or plumbing hanger?

Please link to it.
 
220/221 said:
...

For those who suggest Zamacs, if you are talking about the drive pin style anchors, I hate you. Everything has to come off at some point. Screws are our friends. :)
Click to expand...
The Zamac's I use and am familiar with (Hammer-Screw) are removable... the spec' sheet includes instructions for removal: http://www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/02843.pdf.

However, I have seen some similar products that are not designed for removal. I do not use them (if I have a choice).
 
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Dennis Alwon said:
In that case every strap would be a violation.
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No, there are straps listed for the purpose of securing PVC that still allow the PVC to move and with standard 1 hole or teo hole straps you can just leave they a bit loose.


I don't see why you can't leave them loose-- just don't tighten them down. Couldn't you just use a strap one size larger.
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If you leave strut clips loose or use an oversized one they do not stay put on the strut.
 
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From a design standpoint, you should try to get your anchors in horizontally. The 1/4" platic anchors would have held forever if the weight wasn't pulling straight down...
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Damn near constant problem... :cool:
 
Follow up...

Follow up...

Today I reattached the PVC conduit using the Caddy Straps. It worked out great and I have no doubt that this will not pull out like the original install.
 

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1793 said:
Today I reattached the PVC conduit using the Caddy Straps. It worked out great and I have no doubt that this will not pull out like the original install.
Click to expand...


Yup, side attachment is much stronger than attaching to the underside. Nice work.
 
nhfire77 said:
Yes:

http://www.unistrut.us/index.php?WP=cat_detail&S=S05&P=Cush-A-Clamp
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How does that device allow for expansion and contraction? It squeezes the pipe just like a standard clamp just happens to have a more cushioned grip. I see similar devices for refrigeration or other lines that have natural vibration and it helps prevent transmission of the vibration.

Original install likely failed at least partly because of lack of expansion capabilities.

With hanger straps like in the photo use a locking nut and leave the clamp slightly loose and the raceway can move when expanding.
 
kwired said:
How does that device allow for expansion and contraction? It squeezes the pipe just like a standard clamp just happens to have a more cushioned grip. I see similar devices for refrigeration or other lines that have natural vibration and it helps prevent transmission of the vibration.

Original install likely failed at least partly because of lack of expansion capabilities.

With hanger straps like in the photo use a locking nut and leave the clamp slightly loose and the raceway can move when expanding.
Click to expand...

Like I posted earlier, I used T&B, but very similar to the Unistrut type:

Cow said:
I've used them before in a very humid dairy barn where the temperature varied a lot. The kind I used were from T&B, my electrical supply house was able to get them. I think I bought the 1 1/8 OD straps for 3/4 and they fit perfect. Just snug enough so the pipe couldn't wiggle but just loose enough it could slide back/forth through the strap.

When I was trying to find them, I believe McMaster Carr had a whole bunch of different types too, zinc, stainless steel, etc.
Click to expand...
 
jwelectric said:
Why would this matter?
Wouldn't bailing twine work just as well for support as anything that could be bought in an electrical supply house?
Why would the supporting means need to say it is for electrical PVC?
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I agree.

Just got off a roof of a dairy that has close to 1000' of pvc on the roof. Dang near every plastic strap is broken at least on one side. Sunlight has done a job on them. Brittle as all heck. A 2 hole metal strap that allows the pvc to move is hands down a better installation than the typ plastic one. Bailing twine would probably last longer.
 
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