Induction Lighting For Parking Lots

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Electric-Light

Senior Member
You're right. It's drastic enough that you need to account for it. It's weird, when I started in this business in 2005 I didn't proposed project based on Mean Lumens. Lumen maintenance was so good with PS/MH and T8 there really wasn't much need to. Now we're talking about Lumen Maintenance being a huge factor in the these we do. To me, that's going backwards.

That is true for T8 fluorescent lamps that load the tube very lightly. The light depreciation on PS MH and HPS is still considerably. In 20% range, I believe. The depreciation on LPS (SOX, rarity in the states) is negligible.

I'm firmly entrenched on the LED bandwagon when it comes to replacing low wattage HID, but the lumen maintenance issue is simply too big to ignore. I'm still a skeptic with most LED and almost all induction (which seems to not be dropping in price as swiftly as LED). Metal Halide has dimming options and a great track record, so when it comes to pole lighting that's my go-to solution.

For parking garages and warehouses where they experience operating ambient temperature of 110F +, amalgam fluorescent works well, because you have the space to use large lamps like 4' fluorescent. Induction suffers in efficacy, because the smaller lamp is ran at higher power density. Amalgam can be used in low pressure mercury lamp like fluorescent lamp to regulate Hg pressure so that they work ok at high ambient.

LEDs can not be thermally compensated. Rise in ambient will cause the chips to run hotter and efficacy will drop and decay accelerates. There's no way around that other than lowering the ambient or using refrigeration to lower heat sink temperature.
 

TNBaer

Senior Member
Location
Oregon
Great info, wish you were local to me so I could give you some business. I'm looking at dimmable metal halide as a possible solution to parking lot pole lighting at my buildings, how do potential energy savings stack up vs. standard metal halide?

Thanks, man. I appreciate it. I've heard good things but never done anything with dimming MH myself. Metrolight is the company I'm most familiar with and Duraguard puts their products in new heads, so ordering should be easy. I've spec'd it in, and had some good projects, but for one reason or another it always gets taken out.
 
T

T.M.Haja Sahib

Guest
An induction lamp has the same ten years plus life as LED but less costly. So if cost is the prime consideration, the induction lamp is to be preferred.
 
Parking lots-induction light VS LED

Parking lots-induction light VS LED

An induction lamp has the same ten years plus life as LED but less costly. So if cost is the prime consideration, the induction lamp is to be preferred.

LED has high effiency with around 130lm/W, this is also variates from different manufacturer, some of them can only reaches 60lm/W. In some cases they are much brighter and efficient than any of the current light sourcing. LED is a good choice for parking lots consider energy saving and the visual effect in packing lots.

The disavantage of LED, (1)cost high.(2) high lumen depreciation for some of the products. The most problems are caused by high heat produced in working.

Considering to the buying and maintaining cost, induction light is also a good choice. it has long life span with 800,000hours, the manufacturers garrantee 5 years for their light bulb. Also it's around 1/3 less cost than LED.

For parking lots, better using less maintaining light sourcing like induction lights. See below induction light picture.
40W?????T5,????.jpg
 
How about the combination induction bulb/built-in ballasts, are they rated for exterior use? I am considering these for courtyard lighting, bollard type fixtures, to replace 70 watt HID's

Here are 2 options:

(1) Some of manufacures do self-ballast 40W U27. The ballast in a thin pannel in the light together with the bulb, however, they garranty only 3 years:

(2) The ballast is separated from the induction bulb within the top hat of the courtyard light. In other words, if you choose the latter option, you may have to replace the whole fixture.

I also see someone using CFP but looks really bad...
 

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