TPW said "I would prefer to not have lockable circuit breakers back at the panel. .
Use two pull out disconnects that are commonly used for air conditioning equipment disconnects. Will probably be about the least costly thing you can use and they are fairly reliable.
A double pole switch under the cabinet?
They are not rated that high @ 40 Amps... I looked (ok, my thought as well)![]()
There are some out there, but the pullout switch is much less cost.
I'll give you that thought, but would the home owner know to reach under a cabinet verses running to a panel? Not to be argumentive but a pull out is more of an exterior
app. and doesn't lend itself as an application per say/by design gezz do we have to consider this an application, but it is a viable answer! I concour...
I would install wp disconnects without a thought other than is there room for them. Two units that take 40 amps??? Dang what a waste.
From what I understand it is instantaneous water heater. Requires two 40 amp circuits. They take a lot of power because there is no storage and the unit has to heat the water as it is used. They do not use any power however if no water is used.
I still think they cost more in maintenance than a tank style heater costs to operate even though it is wasting some heat. Tank style are not wasting heat in winter months - the heat is being lost to your home and lessening the demand on your heating system.
That is a little off base, many houses have the water heater in the garage that is not conditioned space. Tank water heaters are less efficient in a couple of ways. First they heat water and have to run to maintain their heat 24-7-365. Second, if gas, they loose heat up the flue pipe, unless you are using a high efficiency water heater (very pricey). Putting an "in demand" water heater at the point of use will also save the heat and water lost in the pipe run from the tanked type heater to the fixture, once you turn off the faucet the water in the pipe will just cool down.
The big problem with "on demand" water heaters is water quality and high cost of installation. If you have poor water quality, such as high calcium levels, your tankless will plug up internally very quickly. They need to be flushed out monthly, many of them come with bypass ports for connecting to just for this reason. I believe they use vinegar to clean them out, but I am not sure about that.
Use two pull out disconnects that are commonly used for air conditioning equipment disconnects. Will probably be about the least costly thing you can use and they are fairly reliable.
I have the same questuion as TPW how about 110.26a ?
You can also use a heat pump water heater which will cool the space around it thus also reducing your A/C cost.The colder the average climate is where you live the more you really need to think about this before rushing into the decision of having a tankless water heater. Total annual enerrgy cost plus cost of equipment over its average life span may not make any sense to use the tankless.