I have a decent one at 3K, good at 10K and better at 22K. They are typically purchased for a specific trade or "need" in mind. There are many options to choose from and specs run the gamete.
IR image question
- Thread starter marcram
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I have a decent one at 3K, good at 10K and better at 22K. They are typically purchased for a specific trade or "need" in mind. There are many options to choose from and specs run the gamete.
The "pointer" is not measuring the hottest temp in the pic. Where ever the pointer is well, pointing, is that temp with this setting. I wasnt sure if that was hot enough to melt insulation. I also thought it was interresting that a neutral can get hot, I am just a thermographer, not an electrician.
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KentAT
Senior Member
- Location
- Northeastern PA
All green, baby!
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
I don't think I'll be buying one very soon. :roll:
The neutral carries current as it tries to keep the load end of the feeder or circuit neutral as close to that of the source end as it can.
If you think about it, all current-carrying conductors really do the same thing. Current has a way of exposing the weakest link in a circuit.
See if this is of any help. I wrote it in response to another neutral question: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showpost.php?p=708650&postcount=4
It's not a stupid question. All of the technical questions and answers about neutrals can be confusing and seem contradictory at times.
The neutral carries current as it tries to keep the load end of the feeder or circuit neutral as close to that of the source end as it can.
If you think about it, all current-carrying conductors really do the same thing. Current has a way of exposing the weakest link in a circuit.
See if this is of any help. I wrote it in response to another neutral question: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showpost.php?p=708650&postcount=4
- Location
- Massachusetts
The first one I worked with was about 45K, the one I have now (not mine, just under my control) was about 32K as they bought a close out one for a good savings.
Great read larry, very helpful. Its funny how reading things such as this makes one realize how much you really "don't" know.
Just wondering..., at what temp will a conductor usually melt? Don't know if it matters but lets just say 14-6AWG, what you might typically see in a residence. Thanks a bunch.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
What matters to us is that the insulation has a much lower temperature limit than the copper. Insulation damage is the big limitation in residential wiring, and the greatest fire hazard.
RETRAINDAILY
Senior Member
- Location
- PHX, arizona
I was recruited to do IR photos with a insurance guy and 20 amp QOB breakers were running at 70 deg but dialed into the red and needed to be replaced.
it was the hot spot in the panel
I also would recommend they call their Electrician if it was me
it was the hot spot in the panel
I also would recommend they call their Electrician if it was me
I would recommend a certified thermographer.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
It's in F. A Klixon overload on a dehumidifier compressor that was dropping 3.2V across it at about 4.5A. The contact where the pigtail was spot welded developed a high resistance causing the OL to open/close every few minutes.
I hope the thermal image was not needed to find the problem here
RETRAINDAILY
Senior Member
- Location
- PHX, arizona
I agree
but we did find one serious problem with their cyanide hood (lab) were they had a fringe plugged in to it . running at 19 amps
new circuit:grin:
RETRAINDAILY
Senior Member
- Location
- PHX, arizona
actually who took the panel cover off?
The guy I dealt with REQUIRED a electrician during the photo shoot.
The guy I dealt with REQUIRED a electrician during the photo shoot.
wptski
Senior Member
- Location
- Warren, MI
No, actually I reinstalled the OL just to do that and did one with the new OL too. Much cooler then!I hope the thermal image was not needed to find the problem here
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
It is possible that you may be able to see that bad connection under load if you turned off all the lights.
zog
Senior Member
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I agree, this is like a DIY thread. Why is it that someone without an electical license asks a question he gets trampled but amatuer IR scanning by non certifed people seems to be accepted? I just don't get it. Just because you buy a cheap camera does not mean you should be doing IR surveys without the proper training anymore than buying a voltmeter makes you an electrician.
OK, off my soap box now.
zog
Senior Member
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I was refering to some of the comments and not the OP, I said this is "like" a DIY thread. Not meant to be rude, but IR scanning should only be done by trained and preferably certifed people. They also need to be qualified per the 70E training requirements and wearing the proper PPE for removing panels and for the scanning.
I did read the whole thread and think your post is more rude and more targeted than my post was.
wptski
Senior Member
- Location
- Warren, MI
The other connection on the OL wasn't melted so I checked the voltage drop across the OL which was 3.2V which is way too high but the current seemed normal.
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