Knockout Plugs

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paul said:
So it's your's guys who flatten out the teeth on these. Makes it a real PITA to remove them. Are your's guys the same one's who use the wirenut attachment and twist the wires all the way to the conduit, too?
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That's funny.:grin: I remember trying to unravel 8" of bare copper EGC's on a renovation job. Previous electrician wasn't thinking about the next guy.
 
paul said:
Are you's guys the same one's who use the wirenut attachment and twist the wires all the way to the conduit, too?
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iwire said:
I usually install them facing in but I also usually flatten the teeth out against the box. :smile:
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Same here on nema 1, on nema 12 and 13, I use the ones with the seal, a stud and a plate for the inside and wingnut.
 
I use those plastic one's that just "click". Real easy on the fingers. I hate trying to get the metal one's centered up nice, whack them with whatever tool is at hand, and have them fly away. The plastic knockout plugs for me, please.

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Wiretech said:
Same here on nema 1, on nema 12 and 13, I use the ones with the seal, a stud and a plate for the inside and wingnut.
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I like the rubber one's for weatherproof use. Not sure what all NEMA categories they're good for, though. I use them on 3r, normally.

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It is my opinion that the use of the KO closer that is pictured in the first post of this thread is a violation of 110.12(A)
(A) Unused Openings Unused cable or raceway openings in boxes, raceways, auxiliary gutters, cabinets, cutout boxes, meter socket enclosures, equipment cases, or housings shall be effectively closed to afford protection substantially equivalent to the wall of the equipment. Where metallic plugs or plates are used with nonmetallic enclosures, they shall be recessed at least 6 mm ( 1/ 4 in.) from the outer surface of the enclosure.
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There is no way that that closer is substantially equivalent to the wall of the box that it is installed in.
Don
 
mdshunk said:
I like the rubber one's for weatherproof use. Not sure what all NEMA categories they're good for, though. I use them on 3r, normally.

78621005710pcds.jpg
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I've never had to plug a nema 3r enclosure, but I bet those rubber ones would be alot cheaper than the ones I mentioned.:smile:
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
There is no way that that closer is substantially equivalent to the wall of the box that it is installed in.
Don
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What metallic plug is any better? You're promoting the 2-piece metallic knockout plugs? Substantially doesn't mean identical. I think you're out in left field on this one.
 
Wiretech said:
I've never had to plug a nema 3r enclosure, but I bet those rubber ones would be alot cheaper than the ones I mentioned.:smile:
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I think they're around a quarter for 1/2". T&B calls them 'liquidtight'. Not really sure what to make of that, but I'd say that they're good for any instances where you could compliantly run liquidtight flex.
 
Anybody ever seen where a previous guy punched a knockout in a metallic knockout plug to use it as a reducing washer? I see that from time to time. I should take a picture of the next one I see.
 
mdshunk said:
Anybody ever seen where a previous guy punched a knockout in a metallic knockout plug to use it as a reducing washer? I see that from time to time. I should take a picture of the next one I see.
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I have, shame on them.:grin:
 
mdshunk said:
Anybody ever seen where a previous guy punched a knockout in a metallic knockout plug to use it as a reducing washer? I see that from time to time. I should take a picture of the next one I see.
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that sounds pretty funny probably were all done by the same guy..i love finding stuff like that
 
mdshunk said:
Anybody ever seen where a previous guy punched a knockout in a metallic knockout plug to use it as a reducing washer? I see that from time to time. I should take a picture of the next one I see.
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Along that vein, I did (gasp) use a set of reducing washers with a 3/4" KO Plug in the middle because I didn't have any 1 1/4" KO Plugs on the truck. Shame on me. Flog away.

don_resqcapt19 said:
There is no way that that closer is substantially equivalent to the wall of the box that it is installed in.
mdshunk said:
I think you're out in left field on this one.
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Way out. UL doesn't agree with that opinion either.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
It is my opinion that the use of the KO closer that is pictured in the first post of this thread is a violation of 110.12(A)

There is no way that that closer is substantially equivalent to the wall of the box that it is installed in.
Don
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You're taking it slightly out of context. Highlight an additional three words preceeding the words you already have highlighted...
...shall be effectively closed to afford protection substantially equivalent to the wall of the equipment.
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The key is the protection afforded, not whether it is made of the same material and thickness.

How would you gauge (pun intended :grin: ) a plastic KO seal to a metal enclosure?
 
infinity said:
As mentioned these things aren't even sharp. Anyone who's ever worked in a commercial panel will tell you that there are multiple metal edges within the panel that are very sharp. Much sharper than a KO seal. Someone is off base with this one.
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I agree the KO seals are not sharp but yeah those panel tubs can cut like a razor.
 
brian john said:
e57 You are suppose to use a screw driver to flatten them not your finger and no bounce.

I almost always flatten them.
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I did the driver slipped - hand went in and got a gash I should've gotten stitches for. From then on when I see them I chuck 'em.
 
iwire said:
I agree the KO seals are not sharp but yeah those panel tubs can cut like a razor.
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There is nothing like a cut with a dull knife - more gash than cut. Outside of my finger whinning - I doubt they could damage conductors unless the box was subject to severe damage anyway....
 
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