Load testing alarm batteries.

Status
Not open for further replies.
LarryFine said:
Bring 'em down here, and we can pop them in front of the 10' screen in the HT.
Click to expand...


Ahh IMPO kids spend far to much time in front of the idiot screen as it is, I am very happy to have them socializing with each other. My kids don't have a TV in their rooms, they read each night. (OK I did install a DVD player in our truck for the kids to watch but that was for my own sanity on 4 hour drives. :D)
 
I found this an interesting read of the following products:

http://www.stonetechnology.com/stc612.html

This doesn't show or state a UL listing ?
This was a load - test product!
I also read the mag. article about a battery life cycle if the load is never drawn on or tested underload simulated, that this alone adds in the batteries short life! (I beleive I got this right)
---------------------------------------------------------------

This product
http://www.actmeters.co.uk/nsi/GOLD-...y-Tester-1.php

This did show a UL listing! " cUL us"
This product did not use a test underload and explained why this is better! (I beleive I got this right)

Now my questions:
1. Should a battery be tested under load or use a no-load from these testing devices for the best results ?
2. Should only UL listed devices be used on UL listed products ? (I'm frankly thinking that all F/A are UL listed)
3. I'm not asking anyone to search the UL for me but does the "cUL us" mean that its ok for stateside use ?
 
It was pointed out to me by a reader, that my direct link of:
http://www.actmeters.co.uk/nsi/GOLD-...y-Tester-1.php
does not go to the stated product.

Please recall that I'm posting about "the ACT GOLD-IBT CalKit"
it can be found under their, Product Index.

By default, the web programing sends one to the host page and not to the direct page about, ACT GOLD-IBT CalKit, sorry about the inconvience.
 
Security101 said:
What exactly is a "carbon pile tester" (or how does it work)? Jim
Click to expand...
It's a very high-wattage resistor that draws a large current from the battery. It has a voltmeter so you can see if the battery voltage drops too much under load. Some versions have an adjustable resistor and an ammeter so you can adjust the current draw according to the type of battery you're testing.
 
posted this right after I got back from replacing 3 fire alarm batteries that set the trouble light and beeper

That is like the check engine light on your car. You don't have to drive directly to the repair shop and you don't have to replace the batteries the instant you get the indication. Just replace then ASAP. Otherwise after 5 years.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
That is like the check engine light on your car. You don't have to drive directly to the repair shop and you don't have to replace the batteries the instant you get the indication. Just replace then ASAP. Otherwise after 5 years.
Click to expand...
When the customer is a crisis clinic, and their clients are on the fragile edge to begin with, the beeper was a real sore point for them. This was an emergency to them, and therefore to me too.
 
I have a battery tester at work that is designed for sealed AGM batteries, its made by BK precision, model 600, here is the link:
http://www.bkprecision.com/products/categories/sub_categories/?sub_cat_id=10

it only works on certain AH categories, it loads the battery and checks the voltage. I was changing my alarm batteries every 3 years but now go every 4, I have hundreds of batteries, mostly 12v 7 ah.
 
I have that Elk unit it works pretty darn wellllll. It can only do 12v batteries though.

I had one I made before. I used a 8ohm 10 watt sand resistor for 6volt batteries and for 12volt 15ohm 20watt. I put alligator clips on both ends and put in a project box.

BTW if you ever read about the ELK tester is says that it tests by mohms/siemens. Well the Fluke 87V has a conductance feature so I would think you could just use the 87v?
 
mdshunk said:
Anyone got a link to an alarm system battery checker? Using a regular DMM doesn't necessarily cut it, for me, so I've been putting a load on alarm batteries with a light bulb during PM to check them. ELK makes an alarm battery checker that relies on baseline measurements from when the battery was installed new, which is somewhat unrealistic considering that I might not have been the one to put in the new battery. I've got a decent one for UPS batteries, but it doesn't go low enough to check the 4 - 7.5ah batteries normally found in security/fire/access control panels.
Click to expand...
Mark I know this is a bit late and you may not see this reply, but you are on the right track.

Go to an automotive store or department and buy a car headlight of say 50 watts. I assume the battery is 12 VDC right? If the battery is fully charged, in good shape, rated, at say 7 amp-hours, and you apply a 50 watt load: The head light should stay on for about 90 minutes. As a threshold anything more than an hour is good. When the battery reaches 10.5 volts it is done or fully discharged

If you want a quicker test, get a larger wattage head light or parallel them up

When I was making 12 VDC power supplies for amatuar radio operators I used a bank of car headlights to test with.
 
Last edited:
When the customer is a crisis clinic, and their clients are on the fragile edge to begin with, the beeper was a real sore point for them.

Yeah whatever but I still don't get it. If you are going to go there, say every year, to test their batteries, why don't you just replace them every year instead? It's not like they are a lot of money and you are going to have to charge the customer anyway for the service call and the time it takes to do the test. If they fail the test it's another service call to replace them unless you stock the batteries which you shouldn't be doing.

Dunno, for an item this inexpensive what you want to do just doesn't make sense.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
Dunno, for an item this inexpensive what you want to do just doesn't make sense.
Click to expand...
Call me crazy, but it doesn't sit well with me, replacing an item that may or may not be bad, every single year, just because I can't test it. Now, I know I can test it, which is exactly what I'll do. If I go to a customer's location that has 4 to 6 batteries in their mag lock cabinet, 3 or 4 in the fire alarm, and 3 or 4 in the security, that's a lot of batteries every year. That would bill out, from me, at something like 500 bucks a year. I'm not against making money, but I'd like to do it righteously.
 
hbiss said:
Dunno, for an item this inexpensive what you want to do just doesn't make sense.

-Hal
Click to expand...

Ok lets look at that...
Most FACP's will use minimum 1 - usually 2 - minimum 7AH batteries
Most system's that are designed right will need an additional power supply to power everything and it has to be able to last as long as the control so it needs another minimum 1 - usually 2 - minimum 7AH batteries

So that's up to 4 batteries at an average price of $25.00^ (unless you can get them cheaper through wholesale battery distribution) plus shipping. Add a little profit and labor and now your well over 100 bucks to add to the inspection. In some cases that wouldn't be a big deal but around here that's "a hundred bucks"!!

Just my 2 cents worth...

Jim
 
Call me crazy, but it doesn't sit well with me, replacing an item that may or may not be bad, every single year...

Yeah, but they are he ones who can't handle the beeping, remember? Sorry, no sympathy, they can't have it both ways.

If I go to a customer's location that has 4 to 6 batteries in their mag lock cabinet, 3 or 4 in the fire alarm, and 3 or 4 in the security, that's a lot of batteries every year.

And how long do you think it's going to take you to test all of them? If it were at my rates that would be close to $500 right there.

-Hal
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top