Manual Transfer Switch inlet location.

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AC\DC

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Florence,Oregon,Lane
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EC
So this is my first one of these I ever installed, https://platt.com/platt-electric-su...iance-Controls/A310A/product.aspx?zpid=178075

It came with a built in power inlet not hocked up. I don't see in 702 any requirements that the inlet has to be outside.
Instruction says " The inlet is supplied separately for indoor models to encourage the use of a remote connection outdoors reducing the likelihood of running the generator indoors which is extremely dangerous."

Nothing say it can't be. Is there something in black and white that forbids this?
Inspector said he won't approve it. Its an easy fix, I assumed since it was part of a listed assembly that it would be compliant on there end.

I called them and said They include it for the homeowner, but they can't install it cause its in violation of UL1008. Have not had time to read this.
If it's in violation why Include it.
I am sure this is a dumb question and you will easily show me were I overlooked that I can't do this.
 
Seems inspector could not find anything saying it can't be installed indoors. He recommend I get the UL document and look it up for my own liability.
 
I would install the inlet outside. When installed inside you need a very long cord to reach the generator outside and have it be away from windows and doors to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning.

Installing outside is easy. Usually the transfer switch is right next to the panel on an exterior wall. Just punch through the exterior wall and mount the inlet. If you are on an interior wall, just run some conduit .
 
Cheap homeowner. Look like I am fine with nec and manufacture said they won’t factory install for liability reason. The unit was certified with inlet installed.
I would put it outside but he did not want to pay to pipe it.
I guess I’ll have him sign paperwork stating not to run generator outside.
I just want to make sure I won’t get in trouble.
I’ll just from now on not give them An option for indoor/ outdoor
 
Unless the inlet is specifically designed or labelled only for outdoor use it sounds like you're good to go.
 
Is that panel approved? What about that hole neutral bonded at service panel and also at generator and not switching of neutral thing? Does everyone not think much of that and just throw these in anyway?
 
Is that panel approved? What about that hole neutral bonded at service panel and also at generator and not switching of neutral thing? Does everyone not think much of that and just throw these in anyway?
The generator neutral bond must be removed and the generator labelled to indicate it. IMO an inlet and interlock kit is a better system.
 
Cheap homeowner............
I would put it outside but he did not want to pay to pipe it.
There's your first problem. The next is the location where you install this transfer switch. If the MBP is in the garage and the HO wants to run the cord under the garage door that's his choice. If it's in the basement and he has to open a window to get the cord in that may present a problem. The next is the bonding issue as others have mentioned. Good luck.
 
There's your first problem. The next is the location where you install this transfer switch. If the MBP is in the garage and the HO wants to run the cord under the garage door that's his choice. If it's in the basement and he has to open a window to get the cord in that may present a problem. The next is the bonding issue as others have mentioned. Good luck.
In some instances one needs to tell the homeowner how the job should be done and charge accordingly. After all we're the professionals.
 
In some instances one needs to tell the homeowner how the job should be done and charge accordingly. After all we're the professionals.
Granted, we are the professionals. We know how to work in the field installing electrical wiring, devices and other electrical equipment. BUT, not everyone is adept at being a good sales-person, administrator, manager, etc. Those qualities come with time and experience.

That said, like the Kenny Rogers song goes "You gotta know when to hold 'em and know when to fold em". When a HO is that cheap, no matter what your price is - he's going somewhere else or will try to do it himself, IMHO, hold your price firm if your quote is what you believe you should get for the work
 
In some instances one needs to tell the homeowner how the job should be done and charge accordingly. After all we're the professionals.
Years ago, an older couple from Florida asked me to install the used generator wiring they had brought with them. (Bad clue)

They had a W/P outlet instead of an inlet, and a suicide cord. I told them we can not and will not install their parts unless we replace the outlet and cord end.

The said never mind, and they would find someone who would. We never heard from them again. (Double meaning intended)
 
I have no problem turning down a job that can't be done in a code compliant manner and have done so many times. I like money, but I don't need the stress of worrying about people getting injured because I installed something. I also don't lower my quotes just to get work except maybe a token amount. I know what the job costs and I know what profit I need to be happy. I'd rather sit home and play video games than work for less.
 
Is that panel approved? What about that hole neutral bonded at service panel and also at generator and not switching of neutral thing? Does everyone not think much of that and just throw these in anyway?
So its not a Sepertly derived system since the neutral is not switched. The generator is a floating neutral set up. Am I missing. something on that end.
The transfer switch is coming off the 200 Amp Main breaker panel. Neutral and grounds bonded at that panel.
With my lack of confidence on this subject I can tell I need a lot of reading on this subject. Though I don't see a problem with it how it's set up.
 
So its not a Sepertly derived system since the neutral is not switched. The generator is a floating neutral set up. Am I missing. something on that end.
The transfer switch is coming off the 200 Amp Main breaker panel. Neutral and grounds bonded at that panel.
With my lack of confidence on this subject I can tell I need a lot of reading on this subject. Though I don't see a problem with it how it's set up.


From what I understand, there was a time you could remove the factory installed bond in the generator. But now you can't remove the ground for it to be listed.


go to 43:19


 
From what I understand, there was a time you could remove the factory installed bond in the generator. But now you can't remove the ground for it to be listed.


go to 43:19


Thanks for video I’ll do more research. Seems it’s a 2020 new requirement for listed generators have to have neutral to ground. This generator is older and we’re not on 2020 yet so looks like I squeezed by.
 
I in like to install the inlet inside beside the garage door opening when ever possible. I hardwire one end of the cord to the conductors feeding whatever the generator is going to feed and leave a 25' whip to plug into the generator.
A lot of those outdoor inlets do not hold up well. Besides typically when you lose power you also have inclement weather.
Whom amongst us wants to deal with plugging in a twist lock in a hurricane ;)
 
I in like to install the inlet inside beside the garage door opening when ever possible. I hardwire one end of the cord to the conductors feeding whatever the generator is going to feed and leave a 25' whip to plug into the generator.
Do you run the cord directly into the panel?
 
I typically run the wire from the panel via cable or conduit to a junction box. I install the cord to the junction box with a strain relief and hang the cord rolled up on a small garden hose hanger or large hook.
 
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