That is some nice pipework. To get all the bends, kicks, side by sides, and stacks, spaced with struts, is like wow. Art!
So if I'm using one 1" EMT and my spacing is 1" and I use the center of my knockout its should all line up right ? even tho the punch is 1-3/8" ?
Yes that is why I mentioned using the centerline to make the KO's and not the edge of the KO based on the spacing between the tubing.
Do I need to make the square like in your picture above 1" x 1" or 1-1/8" x 1-1/8" or 1-3/8" x 1-3/8"
Yes for sure. The greenlee was good in its day, nice for mikwaukee to beat up the green stuff.
The down side to this is that the slug gets warped as the cutter pulls through and pinches the draw stud. Then you spend 5 minutes fighting the stupid thing between holes. It gets worse as the cutter gets dull.
So whats the solution to this
A hole slightly larger than the draw stud and alignment cross hairs on the punch.
But there may be similar box at other end of the run, now the decision is which one to start at.Start at the box.
That is still laying it out based on centers of the holes and not distance between raceways though.
That is why I said we use the slug splitter KO punch. It splits the slug in two pieces so there is no issue getting it off the pull bolt.
No matter how you make the holes, you have to have a layout that gives you the center of the hole. My method does away with trying to line up the four marks on the die with cross hairs you have drawn on the layout tape.
What do u use for the initial hole that is a perfect fit for the draw stud?
A hole saw that is the same size as the draw stud. We normally used Blair brand hole saws and had the sizes for 1/2"(7/8'), 3/4"(1 1/8") and 1"(1 3/8") and an additional one that was 3/4" actual for the draw stud. We would use the hole saws for 1" and smaller and the KO set for larger.
I agree center of hole is usually most important thing and maybe misunderstood what you were describing? I thought I read distance between conduits which needs additional additions/subtractions especially with EMT to get a precise location for the KO.
We would just lay out the center without lines long enough to align the marks on a KO die. Small cross hairs and a center punch. Using the hole saw that matches the pull bolt size saved time. No matter what you need to make a hole for the pull bolt. In the past we would use the hole saw for 1/2" conduit, but that meant you needed to align the marks on the die with the cross hairs. With the smaller starting hole there is no alignment. Of course either way your initial layout has to be correct.
You do not need anything other than the center point of each hole, but the squares make it easier to visualize.
