Meyers hubs?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I guess this the two examples from this T&B's product info would not meet code.
http://www.tnb.com/contractor/docs/sc_raintightemt.pdf

If you read page 2, you will see the following information about the T&B fittings.

Materials, Specifications
Material: Steel Body, Steel Locknut
Plating: Zinc Plated, Clear Chromate Coating
Liner: Nylon (for insulated fittings)
Threads: Male hub threads NPS
Use: Raintight, wet locations, concretetight

I don't see what any of this has to do with a myers hub. The Male hub thread NPS is specifications for the male end of the EMT fitting in the document.
 
I've got a job later this week where I'll be installing an EMT riser out of the top of a 200A meter socket. So how do I legally transition from the 2" hub to my EMT connector?
 
I've got a job later this week where I'll be installing an EMT riser out of the top of a 200A meter socket. So how do I legally transition from the 2" hub to my EMT connector?

I know it is ridiculous but you could use a short 2" galvinized nipple with a coupling and then a RT emt connector into the coup.

I have never run into an inspector who would fail the install with the connector directly into the hub. Heck put some duct seal or silicone around the threads.
 
I know it is ridiculous but you could use a short 2" galvinized nipple with a coupling and then a RT emt connector into the coup.

I have never run into an inspector who would fail the install with the connector directly into the hub. Heck put some duct seal or silicone around the threads.


If you want to be incredibly picky that would not work either. The GRC coupling is supposed to have the tapered threads of GRC or IMC threaded into it. I would just use the thread seal on the meter hub myself, although I hardly ever do that either. This enclosure will have more condensation enter it than it will ever have water leak through those threads.
 
Well the answer would be to make the manufactures use the same threads on all items. I don't understand the issue as I have never seen an issue with PVC in these hubs. The poco did that for years on the meters as they supplied the overhead for residential services at one time.
 
I always use meyers hubs.The rubber seal on the meyers hub makes a good seal between the collar on the hub and the surface it is tightened against. As far as water leaking through the "Threads" of a compression connector or Pvc male adapter screwed into a hub, I would have to say I have never had an issue with that.
 
I always use meyers hubs.The rubber seal on the meyers hub makes a good seal between the collar on the hub and the surface it is tightened against. As far as water leaking through the "Threads" of a compression connector or Pvc male adapter screwed into a hub, I would have to say I have never had an issue with that.

A Meyers Hub wouldn't work on a meter socket as the Milbanks I use (4801), have a KO designed for their hub.
 
A Meyers Hub wouldn't work on a meter socket as the Milbanks I use (4801), have a KO designed for their hub.

My response was directed towards an outdoor gutter or cabinet, not a meter base that has a specific factory hub that goes with it already.
 
It would be better but I knew something was up when it threaded in halfway. I will solar seal the crap out of it and throw on some duct seal for good measure. (it will look like doody all over.)

It does help that it comes in grey, not such an eyesore at that point. I don't want the final to look like bird poop on a new car, only a used car. We really should have some better options. More is not always better.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top