motor connection question

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flounderhead59

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Installing a new big ol' Baldor 30HP motor with a huge 5" square connection box with a 2" unthreaded hole at the bottom. I was originally going to be concerned about water-tight integrity, but I noticed the windings are visible through the vents on the bottom. So I just need something to keep the 3/4" connector inplace so there is no strain on the wiring and connections. Using 3/4" because that's what was ordered before seeing the motor. I have heard numerous things will work, but what do you recommend to connect 3/4" flex connector to the connection box with the 2" untreaded hole
 
Dennis Alwon

Dennis Alwon

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That's a reducing bushing-- he needs a reducing washer.
6948111.jpg
 
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realolman

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Couldn't you thread the 3/4 fitting into the 2" reducing bushing, stick it in the knockout, and put a 2" locknut and maybe a bushing on it?

If it was me , I'd put a 3/4" K O in a piece of 14 ga steel (0.075") and bolt it to the J box w/. about 4 1/4" bolts.

I'm assuming the 3/4" and wiring are big enough in the first place.
 
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flounderhead59

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Yes 3/4 is plenty big.

Yes 3/4 is plenty big.

Only have 3 8ga wires @ 1 10ga wire going to the motor Is there a difference between a Myers hub and something just called a hub. BTW I am not full time electrician, more like a maintenance guy that retired from the Navy a year ago as a marine electrician. As I am finding out marine electricity and land based stuff are a little different and of course the terminology is something that keeps me guessing for hours. And looking at the picture of the reducing bushing it has threads and the connection box doesn't, unless those threads are for a nut on the inside.
 
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realolman

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I posted that link without giving it much thought. I thought all along that the threaded connections did not look correct, but the description said 3/4" to 2". ...it did it all in one bushing. I now think that is not the case looking at the picture. I don't know what it is.

If this thing was the correct sizes as it states, and it had a flange on the outside, you could put a 2" locknut and bushing on the inside of the j box.

A myers hub is a hub that has a flange on it with an o ring seal in the flange, male threads on one end and female on the other.
 
S'mise

S'mise

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reducer washer's are lame

reducer washer's are lame

I always opt for red bushings over reducer washers. Darn things keep coming loose on you because the metal caves in with a tiny bit of strain. I like to take the box off the motor and put it in a vice for tightening and getting the angle you want without distorting the metal. One good thing I'll say about using a pair of red washers is they wont stick out as much as bushings.
 
infinity

infinity

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I would just knock out a 3/4" hole in the side of the peckerhead and use a 2" KO seal in the existing KO.
 
celtic

celtic

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infinity said:
I would just knock out a 3/4" hole in the side of the peckerhead and use a 2" KO seal in the existing KO.
Click to expand...

Yup.

One of those single tooth hole saws will do a nice job.
(Anyone know the name of these things ~ and "broken" isn't it).
 
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flounderhead59

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Thanks guys

Thanks guys

I will be presenting all these ideas to my supervisor, who ultimately has to make the decision as to what we will use.
 
infinity

infinity

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flounderhead59 said:
I will be presenting all these ideas to my supervisor, who ultimately has to make the decision as to what we will use.
Click to expand...


Sounds good. Lets us know what you end up with.
 
celtic

celtic

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stickboy1375 said:
It's called (believe it or not) a 1 Tooth Hole Cutter
Click to expand...

That would be too simple a name...LOL.

I have one laying around someplace...mine was/is black and short...drilling into cast was a breeze with it.
Maybe a GreenLee bit?
 
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flounderhead59

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Sorry about the delay

Sorry about the delay

Project got put on hold for a bit while waiting for other portions to complete. We bolted a 1/16" plate to the bottom of the connection box with a hole drilled in it for the conduit connector. We had the the plate material and nuts and bolts so it added zero to the project as far as dollars go. Did the work during my normal work hours so it added zero to the labor side too. Thanks for the input.
 
iwire

iwire

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infinity said:
I would just knock out a 3/4" hole in the side of the peckerhead and use a 2" KO seal in the existing KO.
Click to expand...

I agree and if I could not do that I would probably go with Realolmans suggestion of filling the hole in with a metal and punching a hole in that.
 
iwire

iwire

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A 30 HP motor?

flounderhead59 said:
Only have 3 8ga wires @ 1 10ga wire going to the motor
Click to expand...

What voltage are you running it at?

The 8 AWGs are right on the edge if your running 460 volt motor.

If your running anything less than 460 the 8 AWG is too small.
 
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