kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
Are the contact blocks rated to handle the current of the motor? Most I have seen are pilot duty only.
motor reversing switch
- Thread starter jetlag
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What did I miss,,,,,,,,,if you go back and look at the OP it states to reverse rotation swap the blue and yellow wires.
Get a single pole double throw, spring return, center off selector,,,120vac hot to the common on the switch,blue & yellow from motor to the switch and 120vac neutral to the motor.
Now if I missed something I don't know where.
dick
Get a single pole double throw, spring return, center off selector,,,120vac hot to the common on the switch,blue & yellow from motor to the switch and 120vac neutral to the motor.
Now if I missed something I don't know where.
dick
kwired
Electron manager
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- NE Nebraska
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- EC
The blue and yellow happen to be the aux winding leads in the motor - reversing them changes rotation, you still need another pole that operates simultaneously to remove power from the main winding when in the off position.
Been a while since I checked, now that you mention it. Having done so, SqD Type KA series are rated for inductive 35% power factor, 60A make, 6A break, 10A continuous for 120V. Given the 10.4 FLA provided by jetlag earlier, I'd say borderline to handle full motor current... so 8 blocks would be better
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kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
You bring up the KA series - the one I am most familiar with. I don't believe any are rated for HP, maybe they have some in catalog but the most common used and likely only ones to be in stock at a supply house, KA-1 to KA-5 definitely are not.
I have replaced a few that others have installed and used to switch more than just control components. They never last with motor loads connected to them.
Here's the catalog spec's...
I did say borderline... and your quote of my reply appears to have been before I added the comment about 8 blocks
Anyway, all the more reason to just use a combination of adequately rated switches: one momentary for jog and one held dpdt for F/R (UP/DOWN).Here's the catalog spec's...
...
I did say borderline... and your quote of my reply appears to have been before I added the comment about 8 blocks
Okay easy enough add the 2nd pole .jumper the two common poles together and tie the motor winding hot leg to both sides of the selector output.
dick
You need 3 poles (or a switch combination that effects the same result).
Let's call the the wires from the switch box to the motor:
- RW1 = Run Winding 1
- RW2 = Run Winding 2
- SW1 = Start Winding 1
- SW2 = Start Winding 2
- RW2 - Neutral (direct connect)
- RW1 - Switch 1 - Line
- SW1 - ____ - Line or Neutral
- SW2 - ____ - Neutral or Line
My thoughts were that the start windings are magnetically arranged/opposed so that when energized they would start the ball rolling in opposite directions one vs the other and the run winding would keep it rolling.Somewhere I got that in my head that is the way it is or is this another of my old age oopsies?
If thats the case then a DPDT would work if not then agreed a 3PDT is needed.
dick
If thats the case then a DPDT would work if not then agreed a 3PDT is needed.
dick
There is only one start winding. Both windings (run and start) must be energized at start. An internal centrifugal switch cuts out the start winding after the motor gets up to a threshold speed. Similar to how you start your car (assuming you don't have an electric or hybrid vehicle)... only you act as the speed switch and release the key from the start position, back to the run position. Now that I think of it, why don't they do this with car engines???
texie
Senior Member
- Location
- Fort Collins, Colorado
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- Electrician, Contractor, Inspector
I already ealier on suggested this as quick and simple and readily available, but some thought it was not sophisticated enough. I never so much technical chest beating about such a simple little motor control.
I suggested it in post #7, two posts before you did.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
There is only one start winding. Both windings (run and start) must be energized at start. An internal centrifugal switch cuts out the start winding after the motor gets up to a threshold speed. Similar to how you start your car (assuming you don't have an electric or hybrid vehicle)... only you act as the speed switch and release the key from the start position, back to the run position. Now that I think of it, why don't they do this with car engines???
If the motor is of a type that has a run capacitor, the centrifugal switch only cuts out the start capacitor - the aux winding is still in the circuit while running.
Did you crank up the speed on your avatar? It used to go much slower, then got faster, but I think is even faster now. Maybe it is directly linked to some real world piece of equipment and you can tell roughly how fast the real world equipment is operating by quickly looking at this avatar
See jetlag's second attachment in post#16.
No change on my part. Speed seems to be due to browser-dependent handling of the Animated GIF protocol (i.e. format). It spins about 4-5 times faster in Chrome than it does in MSIE9.Did you crank up the speed on your avatar? It used to go much slower, then got faster, but I think is even faster now. Maybe it is directly linked to some real world piece of equipment and you can tell roughly how fast the real world equipment is operating by quickly looking at this avatar
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I have been regularly using EI and recently have been using Chrome. Guess they really have a "fast" browser:lol:
jetlag
Senior Member
- Location
- Eatonton, Georgia
Thanks Dicklaxt
Thanks Dicklaxt
Thanks to all replies, here is update on my plan, and it is up for suggestions, I plan to use a common 4 way 20 amp dpdt switch to reverse the start winding . I know this is not motor rated but they have been running the winch for years with the same thing in a 15 amp so it should do fine. Also the switch wont make or break because it is put in position up or down before push button power is engaged. Now the push button I have on hand is a pilot duty 6 amp break with second pole added , like dicklaxt said since this is 120 v only motor , I can leave neutral connected at motor and parallel the hot through both poles on the momentary switches. That should give it a 12a break I would think . The FLA on the motor is 10.4 . They need to get winch going right away and all we have around here is ace and lowes . I told them at the worst a switch would blow and In the meantime I have ordered some heavier switches.
Thanks Dicklaxt
Thanks to all replies, here is update on my plan, and it is up for suggestions, I plan to use a common 4 way 20 amp dpdt switch to reverse the start winding . I know this is not motor rated but they have been running the winch for years with the same thing in a 15 amp so it should do fine. Also the switch wont make or break because it is put in position up or down before push button power is engaged. Now the push button I have on hand is a pilot duty 6 amp break with second pole added , like dicklaxt said since this is 120 v only motor , I can leave neutral connected at motor and parallel the hot through both poles on the momentary switches. That should give it a 12a break I would think . The FLA on the motor is 10.4 . They need to get winch going right away and all we have around here is ace and lowes . I told them at the worst a switch would blow and In the meantime I have ordered some heavier switches.
jetlag
Senior Member
- Location
- Eatonton, Georgia
thanks dicklaxt
thanks dicklaxt
Ok , I know it will work because it is the same set up they had except they had a 15 amp for the 4 way and a spst 15 amp for the power switch . After all these years they finally had an accident that broke the rear cable and the rear of the boat went under water submerging the customers engine. It seems the customers dog was attacking the operator and he took his hand away from the power switch, when someone yelled stop he paniced and hit the reverse switch , since the start windings were allready disengaged from the cut out switch , the winch keep going up. someone said in a reply that on capacitor start the start winding stay connected and only the capacitor cuts out. I dont think that is true because the capacitor is in series with the start windings so both get disconnected together. Any way this doesn't have capacitor start , only start windings with a cut out. Thats why I going back with the momentary push buttom for power in place of the snap switch.
thanks dicklaxt
Ok , I know it will work because it is the same set up they had except they had a 15 amp for the 4 way and a spst 15 amp for the power switch . After all these years they finally had an accident that broke the rear cable and the rear of the boat went under water submerging the customers engine. It seems the customers dog was attacking the operator and he took his hand away from the power switch, when someone yelled stop he paniced and hit the reverse switch , since the start windings were allready disengaged from the cut out switch , the winch keep going up. someone said in a reply that on capacitor start the start winding stay connected and only the capacitor cuts out. I dont think that is true because the capacitor is in series with the start windings so both get disconnected together. Any way this doesn't have capacitor start , only start windings with a cut out. Thats why I going back with the momentary push buttom for power in place of the snap switch.
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