Mounting meter and disconnects prior to brick siding?

S

S&W

Member
Location
MO
Occupation
Contractor
Doing a new build and need to mount the 400a meter and 2 200a disconnects on the outside. Right now it’s just zip sheathing up. GC wants meter and panels up before the brick. It will be 3 1/2” brick with a 1” gap so a total of about 4 1/2” from the sheathing to the face of the brick.
All my other new construction jobs to this point have been in vinyl, metal, or wood/ hardie siding.
I need the panel back to be flush with the eventual brick and am having a heck of a time finding any ideas.
Should I just make a frame out of 2x4’s with 1” or 3/4” plywood over it so it sits the right distance away from the sheathing?
I’d appreciate any help.
 
GC doesn't sound too smart. Why not use temporary power til the brick is up? You can install conduit stubs thru wall and cap them til the masonry crew is done, then come back and install the disconnects and meter base. What you don't want is water to infiltrate behind the equipment and rot the wood out. If you must install first, I would build out the framing to the thickness and L x W needed, cover it with flashing membrane, and tape to the Zip board, then cap it with Aluminum that is color coordinated to anything exterior. And hope I guessed correctly.
 
S&W said:
GC wants meter and panels up before the brick.
Click to expand...
I would agree only with the full inclusion and cooperation of the mason.

(I'll bet he will think it's a terrible idea (if not impossible to do correctly) also.)
 
  • Like
Reactions: S&W
solarken said:
GC doesn't sound too smart. Why not use temporary power til the brick is up? You can install conduit stubs thru wall and cap them til the masonry crew is done, then come back and install the disconnects and meter base. What you don't want is water to infiltrate behind the equipment and rot the wood out. If you must install first, I would build out the framing to the thickness and L x W needed, cover it with flashing membrane, and tape to the Zip board, then cap it with Aluminum that is color coordinated to anything exterior. And hope I guessed correctly.
Click to expand...
I've already got temp power, and have since the framing. Yes, I agree that the GC is not too bright. I expected to do this AFTER the brick as well, but he threw this on me like it's a normal thing that they always do. I figured there was a reason why I cannot find a simple solution anywhere.
 
S&W said:
...
Should I just make a frame out of 2x4’s with 1” or 3/4” plywood over it so it sits the right distance away from the sheathing?
I’d appreciate any help.
Click to expand...

No the *GC* should frame it out for you. Or explain to you in detail how the masonry will be done around your stuff. Or come up with another suitable solution.

Maybe you should find a semi flush panel? It's up to you to tell the GC what you can provide and how you can install it, and it's up to the GC to tell you how they prefer it too look and to make everything else work with it.
 
LarryFine said:
Ask him if he plans on having the roof shingled before the sheathing is applied.
Click to expand...
😂 I needed that! I've been going crazy for days trying to figure out how this makes sense - it doesn't. You guys confirmed this for me and I appreciate it.
I'm not doing it - period. I guarantee this guy would eventually need me to remove the entire thing after the siding guys couldn't do it.
 
CoolWill said:
So he wants the panels up and the mason will brick behind them, or he wants them IN the brick?
Click to expand...

The back of the meter would be on top of the brick....or what WOULD be brick. I was thinking I'd have to build out a "bump" that would be the same thickness as the brick so it looks like it's laying on top of the brick and the bricks would be laid around it. Can't have it IN the brick.

It sounds insane as I write it, because I guess it is. I just figured I was missing some "secret" trick to doing it this way.
 
Why can't you have the meter in the brick? Utility rule? Of course if conduit needs to come out the top or bottom or side then that would also need to be in the brick and to be all done before they brick and they'd probably better be paying the mason extra. Is that what they want? They need to tell you how they think this is gonna work and you then tell them if that's feasible and compliant. I mean, architects and GCs can try to do weird stuff but it's up to *them* to make it all work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S&W
If the contractor installed the structure to mount equipment on then any issues are in him. But I done see this a practical solution. Mounting on the brick is brsty
 
  • Like
Reactions: S&W
In older times around here you could get pre fabricated brick brackets for the 100A meter cans, that you secured to the framing. then the sheathing, air space and then brick was fitted around and over the brackets. the brackets were pre tapped for the machine screws to secure the meter to. It was less of a problem for the masons to cut the bricks and fit them around the bracket standoff legs.

Having multiple enclosures to mount would make this method more difficult, but possible if he was willing to pay to have the custom brackets designed and fabricated. I remember cutting the old ones out on service size upgrades. They were made out of 1/4" thick metal band iron. Bent to give the correct standoff dimension and attached to the framing.

You could do one for the meter and then put the disconnects on top of the bricks as an alternate. A single enclosure wouldn't be too hard, multiple interconnected enclosures would be more involved. you would be required to mount and pipe the enclosures first, then remove them, to allow for the masons to cut and place the bricks around the standoff brackets. Drill the brick after install for the conduit or wire penetrations.

That talk would probably be enough to kill that idea.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S&W
Nothing new with this line of discussion between a GC and Electrician. Most times when the electrician gives in to the whims of the GC it comes back to bite him. "I need the panels up and wiring done before the HVAC guys come here , they need the power on" and you come back for the final and now you've got all sorts of ducts and plumbing in the dedicated zone and at times worse. Had one after the plumbing had been laid out and you can't get the panel cover off or even the door open. Then GC tells you to move the panel because plumber said it's not a plumbing "violation". Won that one, got the AHJ in there and he made the plumber make corrections. The plumber had to fix it twice though, I can't be sure but it seems he intentionally placed the 4" sewer line at about 2ft elevation in the line of egress at 3 and a half foot off the panel. AHJ was furious over that.

Maybe show the GC the raised dimples on the back of the meter, that is there for air circulation and if it is encapsulated in the brick and mortar it can't.

I can see that no matter where you were to situate the meter, pre-brick, it will be wrong to the mason, and will look like a hack job after all said and done. Mason not happy, GC not happy, and most definitely the HO will not be happy with the look of a bunch of cut up brick around the meter. Can almost guarantee they won't Flash around the meter and service mast and it will get water penetration behind the brick and the house sheathing will be gone in a few years.
 
Have the contractor install a fabricated J-Block solid enough to mount your equipment on. Treated 2x's covered with aluminum works. Then the masons can brick right up to the J-block installed. That way it is on the contractor for proper thickness and placement, you are only mounting to the blocking provided.
 
I agree with the others that the GC has a stupid idea because no matter what hack job he comes up with is going to look like a hack job. Tell him to have the bricky install the small section of bricks where your equipment is getting mounted.
 
infinity said:
I agree with the others that the GC has a stupid idea because no matter what hack job he comes up with is going to look like a hack job. Tell him to have the bricky install the small section of bricks where your equipment is getting mounted.
Click to expand...
I think this is the best idea. As cheap as this guy is he probably doesn’t want to pay extra to have him come out for that.

I shall update when I get a solution.
 
jaggedben said:
Why can't you have the meter in the brick? Utility rule? Of course if conduit needs to come out the top or bottom or side then that would also need to be in the brick and to be all done before they brick and they'd probably better be paying the mason extra. Is that what they want? They need to tell you how they think this is gonna work and you then tell them if that's feasible and compliant. I mean, architects and GCs can try to do weird stuff but it's up to *them* to make it all work.
Click to expand...
Yeah it’s an underground feed and their feed requires having an accessible slip cover. Just looking around at the other houses in the neighborhood (2-3 million dollar homes), seems they are all surface mounted.
 
S&W said:
I think this is the best idea. As cheap as this guy is he probably doesn’t want to pay extra to have him come out for that.

I shall update when I get a
Click to expand...
If he insists on mounting prior to the bricklayer being on site then I would mount strut on the sheathing and build out to the proper spacing with threaded rods. Let the GC worry about waterproofing the installation behind the equipment. The rod method will also give some limited adjustability on the spacing behind the equipment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: S&W
infinity said:
If he insists on mounting prior to the bricklayer being on site then I would mount strut on the sheathing and build out to the proper spacing with threaded rods. Let the GC worry about waterproofing the installation behind the equipment. The rod method will also give some limited adjustability on the spacing behind the equipment.
Click to expand...

Good idea, but I'm thinking that once they feed that meter from underneath and the 3" slip cover goes over their feed conduit the meter stays where it is, and can't be moved in or out except maybe an inch at most. I talked to the Power guys and they want everything finished and done before they run their wire to it. It also needs to be secured to the structure.

I do like your idea though. I just imagine the brick guys are going to have a heck of a time laying brick behind everything. I foresee an issue where the entire thing will need to be taken down and redone, which isn't going to and shouldn't happen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top