Need some opinions

[brantmacga]

I told the architect I'm not putting them in

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

Are the walls still open ?

If so, can you use a non metallic box and plaster ring at each location? Route ENT with stranded conductors to each location for each device, and use crimp connectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nickelec]

ENT not allowed in NYC

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[nickelec]

And walls are closed cabinets are in painted etc

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[brantmacga]

Oh I see.

They should’ve really planned ahead I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nickelec]

They should just get regular receptacles

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[gadfly56]

Why do you think that the splices are not accessible through the round hole? Certainly it's designed that way and has be tested and listed by UL.

Allow me to repeat, UL is not necessarily NEC compliant. The receptacles themselves may be safe, but I don't believe that UL is testing the entire installation methodology. It would be outside their scope.

 

[nickelec]

I agree that just because it's ul listed does mean it's code complaint

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I don't know how you would get at the splices when you have more than one device in a box

 

[winnie]

The pdf instructions have you placing the splices on the wires and then pushing the receptacles into place, suggesting that if you pull the receptacle out you can pull the splices out through the same hole to work on them. As noted in post 28 you can't really get at any other splices 'buried' inside the box.

The manufacturer's instructions also state 'Best practice statement: For ease of future access or maintenance, we recommend a single incoming wire to the junction box (no J-box splices) immediately behind the 22 receptacles. ' As I see it you would have to bring in a single set of wires (H,N,G) for each receptacle unit,as necessary from a separate accessible j-box.

With the rough already done and finish work in place, I don't see how you could do this without pulling stuff out or going from the other side of the wall.

https://bocci.com/app/uploads/22.5.6M_SpecInstructions.pdf

-Jon

 

[infinity]

Allow me to repeat, UL is not necessarily NEC compliant. The receptacles themselves may be safe, but I don't believe that UL is testing the entire installation methodology. It would be outside their scope.

Never said that it was, but most places accept listed equipment even if it's near impossible to install.

 

[gadfly56]

Never said that it was, but most places accept listed equipment even if it's near impossible to install.

So, if I use UL listed boxes and covers, UL listed wire nuts, and UL listed electrical tape, it's just fine to bury all the boxes I want behind drywall?

 

[LarryFine]

So, if I use UL listed boxes and covers, UL listed wire nuts, and UL listed electrical tape, it's just fine to bury all the boxes I want behind drywall?

Sure, as long as it's UL listed drywall.

To me, using raceway and stranded wire, and solid device pigtails, is the only way to go for those receptacles.

 

[infinity]

So, if I use UL listed boxes and covers, UL listed wire nuts, and UL listed electrical tape, it's just fine to bury all the boxes I want behind drywall?

You're smart enough to know that's not what I said, so I won't answer that, and I'll keep it as a rhetorical question.

 

[sparky1118]

Cool looking however I agree with you. If you ever have to get to that box for whatever reason you’re screwed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[goldstar]

ARCHITECT. That's your first problem. Part of the educated elite. Just because they have "design capability" credentials they think they can design anything they wish irrespective of what any Codes dictate. I once traced down a 20A, 240V circuit for a sauna on the first floor of a residence. Found a small breaker box in a bathroom wall directly above the sauna. When I removed a small 5" x 7" painting the only thing exposed was the breaker handle. If you had to change the breaker you'd have to cut the wall open to get to remove the panel cover. Looking further in the bathroom I didn't see any receptacles. Turns out - they were under the sink !!!

 

[gadfly56]

You're smart enough to know that's not what I said, so I won't answer that, and I'll keep it as a rhetorical question.

Almost. You seemed to be hanging your hat on the UL listing, as if that were the only thing that mattered and that as long as you followed the manufacturer's instructions you'd be OK, regardless of whether the manufacturer had a clue or not regarding the NEC.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I don't believe there is an issue with burying a box behind the drywall as some boxes are designed that way. The issue is the splices. IMO, if you had a separate, let say 14/2 nm or 12/2 nm, connected to each outlet with no interconnection then there would not be an issue since the connections can be brought through the hole.

 

[nickelec]

And that's the case here plus everything is #12 . #14 is not allowed to be used in NYC

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[infinity]

I don't believe there is an issue with burying a box behind the drywall as some boxes are designed that way. The issue is the splices. IMO, if you had a separate, let say 14/2 nm or 12/2 nm, connected to each outlet with no interconnection then there would not be an issue since the connections can be brought through the hole.

That's the real question, if there are splices in this box can they be accessed through the hole. No different than a box with a raised adapter cover (mud ring) behind drywall except that the hole is smaller.

 

[nickelec]

That's the real question if there are splices in this box can they be accessed through the hole. No different than a box with a raised adapter cover (mud ring) behind drywall except that the hole is smaller.

Much smaller I can almost fit my whole hand in a 2 gang mudring

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk