NM/romex ground pigtails

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I'm pretty new to romex since I started off working in an area that doesn't allow it. Making up boxes with multiple cables, the guys I work with twist the bare grounds together and clip short all but the one or two to hit devices. I've also seen crimps used here.

Are there any other ways to do this? I feel like clipping the wire back that far eventually leads to something too short to work with.

How do you like to make up boxes with NM/bare EGCs?
 

Cletis

Senior Member
Location
OH
That's pretty much how i've done it for 30yrs. It's easy carrying around a bunch of small copper crimps in a pouch. Some guys like green wire nuts. I really don't know many more options for romex?? Commercial another story..
 

John120/240

Senior Member
Location
Olathe, Kansas
Twist them all together with a red wire nut & tails for each device. Or if you choose only one ground tail long enough to reach all devices in your box. Or sometimes on old work where the wires are already short I use a Wago nut. Wagos come in different sizes two to ten ?? ports.
 

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Ponchik

Senior Member
Location
CA
Occupation
Electronologist
On all of my wiring, I prefer wire nuts with a pigtail to the device. My wire nuts do all the twisting.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I'm pretty new to romex since I started off working in an area that doesn't allow it. Making up boxes with multiple cables, the guys I work with twist the bare grounds together and clip short all but the one or two to hit devices. I've also seen crimps used here.

Simply twisting without some type of connector is not permitted, is that what they're doing?
 
Simply twisting without some type of connector is not permitted, is that what they're doing?

Yep. That's what they've always done so far since I've been working there. I guess that's what the green nuts are for huh? Or the crimps... Is this in section 250 of NEC somewhere, or 334 (correct?) for NM wiring methods?
 

MasterTheNEC

CEO and President of Electrical Code Academy, Inc.
Location
McKinney, Texas
Occupation
CEO
I'm pretty new to romex since I started off working in an area that doesn't allow it. Making up boxes with multiple cables, the guys I work with twist the bare grounds together and clip short all but the one or two to hit devices. I've also seen crimps used here.

Are there any other ways to do this? I feel like clipping the wire back that far eventually leads to something too short to work with.

How do you like to make up boxes with NM/bare EGCs?

While others will state that this is what they do or that it is what is normal...it should not be in terms of cutting the EGC's shorter than permitted in 300.14 which also goes for the EGC.

As the norm, once compliance to 300.14 was achieved then you can cut them off, twist them with pigtails (or use other devices) and make up the connections.

P.S. it's Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable, otherwise known as NM Cable.:angel:
 

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
I'm pretty new to romex since I started off working in an area that doesn't allow it. Making up boxes with multiple cables, the guys I work with twist the bare grounds together and clip short all but the one or two to hit devices. I've also seen crimps used here.

Are there any other ways to do this? I feel like clipping the wire back that far eventually leads to something too short to work with.

How do you like to make up boxes with NM/bare EGCs?


Twisting and crimping is pretty much the only accepted way of doing it in this area for residential wiring. The idea being that a crimp properly intalled will not come off.

Legally you can use a wire nut or wago but lots of inspectors are old school.

As far as bare grounds go think of it like this. If you use a metal box and bond the box (as required) then the whole box is a bare ground. Bare grounds all over the place, you just get used to it.
 

don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
While it was never code compliant, the common practice, in my area when I started, was to tightly twist 2 or 3" of the EGCs, leave one long tail for the connection to the box or device and tightly tuck the twisted part against the back of the box.

With the solid wires tightly twisted for a couple of inches, I would doubt that the resistance of the connection between the conductors would be any greater than if a code required connector was used.

The practice in no longer accepted by the local inspectors, but some still try to do it that way. When I subbed for our city inspector a few months ago, I left a correction notice because no wire connectors had been used on the EGCs.
 

mwm1752

Senior Member
Location
Aspen, Colo
I'm pretty new to romex since I started off working in an area that doesn't allow it. Making up boxes with multiple cables, the guys I work with twist the bare grounds together and clip short all but the one or two to hit devices. I've also seen crimps used here.

Are there any other ways to do this? I feel like clipping the wire back that far eventually leads to something too short to work with.

How do you like to make up boxes with NM/bare EGCs?

Should never be short as 6" req length applies 310.14 -- using a crimp sleeve with an approved crimp is an acceptable method I used for years
 
Twisting and crimping is pretty much the only accepted way of doing it in this area for residential wiring. The idea being that a crimp properly intalled will not come off.

Legally you can use a wire nut or wago but lots of inspectors are old school.

As far as bare grounds go think of it like this. If you use a metal box and bond the box (as required) then the whole box is a bare ground. Bare grounds all over the place, you just get used to it.

I don't have any problem with bare grounds, I just never worked with them previously. Having a ground wire on each cable just adds another set to find a place for. I'm still working on strategies for making up boxes nicer. Sometimes, I really struggle trying to tuck everything in neatly so the devices go in easy
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
I don't have any problem with bare grounds, I just never worked with them previously. Having a ground wire on each cable just adds another set to find a place for. I'm still working on strategies for making up boxes nicer. Sometimes, I really struggle trying to tuck everything in neatly so the devices go in easy
I prefer crimp sleeves for grounds, especially on multi gang boxes where you need more than one ground pigtail. But green wire nuts aren't too bad. I cut them all short (6") except the tail(s). Your box is 3-3/4" tall, so 6" of wire tucks back in nicely with one fold. All the wires going on the device I cut to about 9" long, two folds back into the box. Or roll-folds, whichever suits your fancy

And your makeup will go in the back of the box neater if you have only the minimum amount of sheathing in the box (1/4"). Harder to fold the wires with excess sheathing in the box
 

PetrosA

Senior Member
All the years I've been doing this I never once saw the grounds left at six inches with one longer and a green wire nut or crimp. I never even thought about those clipped ground wires as being in violation of the 6" minimum. I guess I need to rethink life again :)
 

don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
My reading of 300.14 is that you need to leave the 6" for the purpose of making the splice or connection, but the wording does not say you cannot shorten when you make the splice or connection. In other words the 6" has to be there before you make the splice or connection, but does not have to be there after you make the splice or connection.

I understand this is not how most read or enforce the section, but it is what I believe the actual words say.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
My reading of 300.14 is that you need to leave the 6" for the purpose of making the splice or connection, but the wording does not say you cannot shorten when you make the splice or connection. In other words the 6" has to be there before you make the splice or connection, but does not have to be there after you make the splice or connection.

I understand this is not how most read or enforce the section, but it is what I believe the actual words say.
I, on the other hand, believe that the same length requirements will be present if you replace the device(s) in the box, so if you shorten them after the initial finish work you will no longer be compliant.
This is something about which even reasonable men may differ, so it is not surprising that we disagree. :angel:
 

dfmischler

Senior Member
Location
Western NY
Occupation
Facilities Manager
With the solid wires tightly twisted for a couple of inches, I would doubt that the resistance of the connection between the conductors would be any greater than if a code required connector was used.
I would assume that the crimp or compression connector is required to maintain a gas-tight connection that will not corrode, not just to ensure low resistance at the time of installation. Am I wrong?
 

MasterTheNEC

CEO and President of Electrical Code Academy, Inc.
Location
McKinney, Texas
Occupation
CEO
My reading of 300.14 is that you need to leave the 6" for the purpose of making the splice or connection, but the wording does not say you cannot shorten when you make the splice or connection. In other words the 6" has to be there before you make the splice or connection, but does not have to be there after you make the splice or connection.

I understand this is not how most read or enforce the section, but it is what I believe the actual words say.
We can agree to disagree on that opinion.....;)

My belief is that the 6" is their for the ability to service the device and terminations....but then again that my opinion on it.

I am guessing you never had a switch or receptacle connected to a conductor that was too short...and struggled to get a screwdriver on it....you don't have babies bottom hands do you Don?
 

MasterTheNEC

CEO and President of Electrical Code Academy, Inc.
Location
McKinney, Texas
Occupation
CEO
All the years I've been doing this I never once saw the grounds left at six inches with one longer and a green wire nut or crimp. I never even thought about those clipped ground wires as being in violation of the 6" minimum. I guess I need to rethink life again :)

Think about this......if you go with Don's theory....would you cut off the ungrounded conductors shorter than 6"....the EGC is no less of a conductor and must meet the same requirements of 300.14 as well.

I will note that Don's theory is flawed because of this statement in 300.14 " Shall be left at each outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or the connection of luminaires or devices".....if you cut it off to say 5"...how to you have 6" remaining to meet the 6" requirement. The pigtail is just that...not part of the "free conductor" requirement.
 

mwm1752

Senior Member
Location
Aspen, Colo
Example of easy 6" -- all cables enter the top of single gang plastic --- strip nm - separate conductors - push EGC to bottom left corner -- slip crimp sleeve over all EGC to exterior of 2 1/2" deep plastic box -- crimp, cut extra tails & fold up -- I usually take the tail & double fold the inside hieght of the box -- All wire nut connections & pigtails can be done the same way & with a cleam fold you will have plenty of room.
 

readydave8

re member
Location
Clarkesville, Georgia
Occupation
electrician
I would assume that the crimp or compression connector is required to maintain a gas-tight connection that will not corrode, not just to ensure low resistance at the time of installation. Am I wrong?

I agree with this, have seen a few times receptacles show "open ground" on HI's plug-in tester, solved by adding wire nut to apparently well-twisted bares.
 
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