non dwelling range GFCI

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If it isn't direct wired than yes. Kitchen is listed in the section below

210.8(B) Other Than Dwelling Units. All single-phase receptacles
rated 150 volts to ground or less, 50 amperes or less and threephase
receptacles rated 150 volts to ground or less,
100 amperes or less installed in the following locations shall
have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
 
Here are the areas listed for above
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Kitchens
(3) Rooftops


Exception: Receptacles on rooftops shall not be required to be readily
accessible other than from the rooftop.


(4) Outdoors
Exception No. 1 to (3) and (4): Receptacles that are not readily accessible
and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snowmelting,
deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be
permitted to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as
applicable.


Exception No. 2 to (4): In industrial establishments only, where the
conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified
personnel are involved, an assured equipment grounding conductor
program as specified in 590.6(B)(3) shall be permitted for only those
receptacle outlets used to supply equipment that would create a greater
hazard if power is interrupted or having a design that is not compatible
with GFCI protection.


(5) Sinks — where receptacles are installed within 1.8 m


(6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink
Exception No. 1 to (5): In industrial laboratories, receptacles used to
supply equipment where removal of power would introduce a greater
hazard shall be permitted to be installed without GFCI protection.
Exception No. 2 to (5): For receptacles located in patient bed locations
of general care (Category 2) or critical care (Category 1) spaces of health
care facilities other than those covered under 210.8(B)(1), GFCI protection
shall not be required.


(6) Indoor wet locations
(7) Locker rooms with associated showering facilities
(8) Garages, service bays, and similar areas other than vehicle
exhibition halls and showrooms
(9) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level
(10) Unfinished portions or areas of the basement not intended
as habitable rooms
 
If it comes with a flex, do I have to hard wire? If its hard wired I need a disconnect? This customer has documented LOTO does that help?
 
If it comes with a flex, do I have to hard wire? If its hard wired I need a disconnect? This customer has documented LOTO does that help?


You can use a breaker lock at the panel as the disconnect if it is hard wired

422.31(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes. For permanently
connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes, the
branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to
serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit
breaker is within sight from the appliance or is lockable in
accordance with 110.25.
 
If it comes with a flex, do I have to hard wire? If its hard wired I need a disconnect? This customer has documented LOTO does that help?

If it comes with a flexible hardwire whip you usually cannot cord and plug connect it by removing the whip. Factory whips usually have high temperature conductors so a cord cannot be used instead.
 
2-pole GFCI cost vs cost of 422.31 disconnect means for hardwired appliances should also be considered.

So a kitchen subpanel w/in sight of, but not in the kitchen serves well

~S~
Does not need to be within sight. Must have a locking device on the breaker that complies with 110.25 (must remain in place whether locked or not is the main thing that applies here)

Some wording changes in some of the subparts from 2014 to 2017, so read carefully. I think most instances what requires a lock or disconnect within sight will not really change though, just has been reworded a bit.
 
So if it’s three wire cord I can just plug the new range in, if it’s a flex is that the same, grandfathered? Just wire it up?the building circuit is three wire,I just want to put the new range in place.nothing with the building wiring.
 
So if it’s three wire cord I can just plug the new range in, if it’s a flex is that the same, grandfathered? Just wire it up?the building circuit is three wire,I just want to put the new range in place.nothing with the building wiring.


If you buy a new range and you have an old 3 wire receptacle then just get a 3 wire cord and plug it in. Make sure you make the correct connections in back of the stove
 
The range will come with a flex,no cord, can I just wire it up, making sure to bond the frame?
Yes.

When there is a GFCI requirement, unless there would be product instructions, only applies to any receptacle outlet.

If you are removing a receptacle and hardwiring it, some AHJ may determine you are modifying premises wiring and require separate EGC, which could easily be a metal raceway if that is what you have, and what I would do even if no AHJ requirement to do so.
 
Right now the range is a 3 wire with a flex, no receptacle, no disconnect no gfci. It is a 1990 building, the new range would be the same, drop in range with flex, no receptacle. would this be the same as just swapping out old range with new? or do we need to change to a 4 wire with a wall disconnect.
 
Right now the range is a 3 wire with a flex, no receptacle, no disconnect no gfci. It is a 1990 building, the new range would be the same, drop in range with flex, no receptacle. would this be the same as just swapping out old range with new? or do we need to change to a 4 wire with a wall disconnect.


I gave my opinion, tit for tat should be compliant. No need to change the wire to 4 conductors.
 
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