opinions? parallel 1/0 or 300 copper

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mikeames said:
Will you have a bucket truck to feed conductors from top? If not and doing this as a one man job, this is where I might violate code and assemble the conduit as I install the conductors. I would do the horizontal section first, then add sweeps and last legs. Call me a hack. If I had the bucket truck, a puller and a helper I would pull it in from top and feed from bottom. If no puller then as Larry said pull from bottom and feed from top. I would do one set of conductors so I didn't have to worry about lugs.
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Im not familiar w the code section that tells you how to get the wire in the pipe only after
 
Ah yes, the importance of having a system that is serviceable after the building is finished. Thanks!
 
wyreman said:
they would even pay for that to keep it purdy
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Ok, all things aside, funny that pretty was my point.
The whole thing is not pretty. There is codes to deal with unfused service conductors, as well as other codes in question... goodness, if that ended up on a pretty house a family member owned, it would get yoinked- stat.
 
you still got to run 2 feeders to the panels... you cant take everything pg&e says word for word, just to make their life easy... but if the designer spec'd that out, great. I guess its not a historical distric.
 
300 MCM through 3 90s or 2/0 makes no difference. If you changed for LBs for pull boxes that’s one thing. But a straight pull is going to need some sort of puller. Might be able to use one with a remote so you can feed it yourself? If you pull individuals in smaller conduit in parallel it’s easier to pull.

This is where tray or troughs have massive advantages because you can just lay it in. Teck at 300 MCM is no fun.
 
wyreman said:
all good!
location: only in california =)

so the slope there is 10% and no snorkle will park and raise,
nobody rents a 30' boom,
they do rent a crane, but

so I either have to build a platform with cribbing for the snork
or...

I am thinking to create a hoist anchor point from the roof
and a small platform that gives me 7+ feet to set the 24' ladder on those porches
Then build the riser with the sweep into a threadless compression fitting

Hang the pipe from the hoist and then fit it to the compression fitting down there and the strut on the wall.

The wire can also be raised by the hoist, draping the belly over some webbing
Of course it is good to have two helpers.

I used to do alot of field engineering when i was a kid,
My boss was a civil engineer in the shipyards
we were always building cranes and levers.

So the question is: rigging
the best way to rig the pipe and
rig the wire to be able to hoist it.
My plan is to drill a 1/4 or 3/8 hole thru the rigid coupling , use some removeable threadlocker
and put a bolt in thru the coupling for a handle
Hoist it up by the bolt its only 12 feet or so
After its all secured, then the rigid coupling can be removed

As for the wire, again, hoist in with webbing from about the midpoint and slide it in there with lots of soap
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How about renting some scaffolding, not like you need to move it multiple times to do this job.

Recent years everyone thinks a mechanical lift is absolutely necessary for about everything, and they are often convenient. But older fashioned methods still have a use at times.
 
You might use a gin pole with a pulley or block and tackle on top to pull up the conduit assembly into place. The gin pole could be stabilized horizontally with guy wires and/or a temporary attachment to the building (which could be small with minor impact to the building because it doesn't have to support the weight of the conduit assembly).

But then thinking of that, you might attach the top vertical run of the conduit onto a temporary section of conduit to make a longer "pole" that would reach up to where you want it. That way you could tip up this "pole" from the ground, strap the upper conduit in place, and then remove the temporary lower section. I think it would be best if the bottom of this pole was placed over a bolt put into a large board, the concrete slab, etc. to keep the pole from slipping out sideways when it's tipped up vertically. Kind of like tipping up a ladder ... I think.
 
There are two windows next to where you want the vertical riser. Can you work hanging out of them?
 
synchro said:
...But then thinking of that, you might attach the top vertical run of the conduit onto a temporary section of conduit to make a longer "pole" that would reach up to where you want it. That way you could tip up this "pole" from the ground, strap the upper conduit in place, and then remove the temporary lower section. I think it would be best if the bottom of this pole was placed over a bolt put into a large board, the concrete slab, etc. to keep the pole from slipping out sideways when it's tipped up vertically. Kind of like tipping up a ladder ... I think.
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Great idea!


Screen Shot 2020-09-01 at 11.24.22 AM.png
 
kwired said:
How about renting some scaffolding, not like you need to move it multiple times to do this job.

Recent years everyone thinks a mechanical lift is absolutely necessary for about everything, and they are often convenient. But older fashioned methods still have a use at times.
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That’s all true but in this case the scaffold would be in front of the riser and poco may not be able to reach with their boom. It was actually my preferred method after the snorkel. The cost was modest. It is still possible.
The worry is that poco will not be able to teach the anchor point given the scaffold built to 18’ & the attachment at 20’ , the Weatherhead at 22’
You’d have to do the work and breakdown the scaffold by 3p
Ladder platform and hoist is portable.
 
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