Glennsparky
Member
- Location
- Casselberry, FL USA (near Orlando)
No. Branch circuit GFCIs is written as the alternative. The main breaker GFCI method is written first. (555.3)
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Outdoor panel for pool
- Thread starter nickelec
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Glennsparky
Member
- Location
- Casselberry, FL USA (near Orlando)
ok. I think the whole install can be done with two breakers and a GFCI receptacle. One double pole GFCI twenty amp and one regular single pole twenty. No other breakers or disconnects needed.
Wire the pump relays as you describe. Under the two line screws of the filter relay, also put the hots from the gas heater. Heater 24v control wire to the PCB as normal.
Mount the GFCI receptacle in the Aqualink knockout. Feed the light relay from line of the GFCI receptacle. Under that light relay line screw, also put the hot lead to the computer power supply.
Alternately, feed the light relay from the protected (load) side of the receptacle. Then wire nut a short jumper wire to the power supply hot and stick that in the line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Parts and labor, I think that's as inexpensive as it gets.
Wire the pump relays as you describe. Under the two line screws of the filter relay, also put the hots from the gas heater. Heater 24v control wire to the PCB as normal.
Mount the GFCI receptacle in the Aqualink knockout. Feed the light relay from line of the GFCI receptacle. Under that light relay line screw, also put the hot lead to the computer power supply.
Alternately, feed the light relay from the protected (load) side of the receptacle. Then wire nut a short jumper wire to the power supply hot and stick that in the line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Parts and labor, I think that's as inexpensive as it gets.
- Location
- Massachusetts
Which ever way you prefer to look at it is fine, but neither way you look at tells us one is a better design over the other.
In my opinion it is always a better design to limit a fault to the branch circuit and not let one branch circuit fault take out a feeder.
As I said, to each their own.
- Location
- Massachusetts
Pool lights seem to be rare around here, at least in the in ground pools I have been swimming in.
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
You need to get out more. :thumbsup:
- Location
- Massachusetts
peter d
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
And you need a date.
True. :ashamed1: And the odds of that happening are as good as you getting a deep tan.
Mystic Pools
Senior Member
- Location
- Park Ridge, NJ
- Occupation
- Swimming Pool Contractor
Sounds like a good idea. The one issue is the Jandy relay for the filter. On the load side, the automatic fill gets power, chlorine generator and the cleaner pump. It's pretty tight. Adding the heater just makes more of a jam. The heater is convertible 110/220-we use 110 and it's breaker to hold programming.
Protecting the light through a GFCI receptacle works. Seen that for many years. I just worry about the receptacle being used and getting wet to tripping it therefore killing power to the heater.
As I had said the knockout on the side is a PIA.
I'll revisit price comparison but I can say the 60 amp GFCI box is about $70. A 2 pole 20 GFCI breaker alone is about $85 +. Not a big difference but if the 60 amp GFCI box is eliminated, we are spending less time which means spending less money. Guess it's a toss up.
Appreciate all the input
Glennsparky
Member
- Location
- Casselberry, FL USA (near Orlando)
This puts a twist on things.
https://www.mikeholt.com/newsletters.php?action=display&letterID=1694
A fault on both L1 and L2 will cancel each other out. A double pole GFI will only trip when one fault is bigger than the other fault by more than the trip limit.
That could be deadly. But, what are the odds of it actually happening?
https://www.mikeholt.com/newsletters.php?action=display&letterID=1694
A fault on both L1 and L2 will cancel each other out. A double pole GFI will only trip when one fault is bigger than the other fault by more than the trip limit.
That could be deadly. But, what are the odds of it actually happening?
Knuckle Dragger
Master Electrician Electrical Contractor 01752
- Location
- Marlborough, Massachusetts USA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
He did ask for it.
I find that electricians in general can very quick to be criticize and knit-pick of each others work.
That being said.
I value this "blog/ forum" and am always interested in the opinions, comments that come with the experience and knowledge of the men and women how participate in the forum.
overall I like the panel set up Mystic Pool
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
- Occupation
- EC
I did not read the entire article you linked to, but as it starts out the topic seemed to be dealing more with "stray voltage" at boats, marinas, etc. which would be easier to minimize if we were able to make a equipotential plane(s) as easily as we can for smaller pools stray voltages wouldn't be as much of a problem.
As far as a faults on a 2 pole GFCI breaker - L1 to L2 fault shouldn't put any stray current on any non current carrying components of the equipment.
If L1 an L2 faulted to a non current carrying component at same time - majority of current will still flow L1 to L2 but there has to be nearly exact impedance from both lines or else once you get over 4-6 mA flowing to ground you will trip the GFCI. At 120 volts nominal to neutral/ground, it doesn't take much to make a big enough imbalance to get 4-6 mA, 20kohm difference between the two sides would yield 6 mA.
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