Outlet placement

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Even if you disregard any whimp factors, productivity normally isn't all that great in those conditions.

This is true, but we have a builder that wants stuff done yesterday


“ shoot low boys their riding shetland ponies”
 
we do a lot of Habitat houses and there can be several "volunteers".

In my area Habitat doesn't allow volunteers to do any electrical work. They used to, but there were a lot of problems afterward. I know this because when I was preparing to start my company, I attempted to volunteer so I could get some experience doing residential wiring. I had only done commercial and industrial electrical work up until then. So I ended up doing a lot of framing instead. The foreman gave me a nail gun to use since I was the only volunteer who actually had any construction experience. Everyone else got a hammer.
 
When I did a lot of it I asked the homeowner to think about living there and make an “X” where they wanted a box in every room. I never had a problem with 6’... they always added a lot. I got paid per fixture, so I didn’t care. they wanted it, they were paying for it.
A lot of owners I dealt with wanted an outlet under each window for christmas lights.
about always put an outlet right at the head of the stairs for rail garland.

Normally I cut a block of wood at 14” and set the box on it.

for countertops, I chalked a line and set them all the same height.
nothing worse than a homeowner mad about an outlet 1/4” off with a tile backsplash. Grout lines will definitely show it.
 
.....for countertops, I chalked a line and set them all the same height.
nothing worse than a homeowner mad about an outlet 1/4” off with a tile backsplash. Grout lines will definitely show it.

I only use a hammer / stick in new construction. Remodels get the rotary laser.

If you base a chalkline based on an unlevel floor, you'll have unlevel boxes above the counter. A good trim carpenter will shim the cabinets to make the c'top perfect, and you'll end up with unlevel devices on a perfect tile backsplash.
 
I only use a hammer / stick in new construction. Remodels get the rotary laser.

If you base a chalkline based on an unlevel floor, you'll have unlevel boxes above the counter. A good trim carpenter will shim the cabinets to make the c'top perfect, and you'll end up with unlevel devices on a perfect tile backsplash.
I don't own a rotary laser but I think his point was to do something to ensure they are same "level" and that is what I ordinarily will do for countertop outlets as well.
 
I don't own a rotary laser but I think his point was to do something to ensure they are same "level" and that is what I ordinarily will do for countertop outlets as well.

He said he chalk lines at the same height. If the floor's out-of-level then the chalk line's out-of-level.
 
Residential 16" , commercial 18" to center.
Ruler or jig for height and depth.
Space to code plus whatever floats mine or the customers boat.
Where it matters I use a level.
 
Residential 16" , commercial 18" to center.
Ruler or jig for height and depth.
Space to code plus whatever floats mine or the customers boat.
Where it matters I use a level.
I've never seen a plastic box for residential with a center line to go by if you place/measure to the center of a box. You could figure out one then cut a gauge stick for the rest.
 
In a kitchen, the best bet is to have the tile installer identify a top or bottom mark, and then level from that mark.
 
Tell the GC you will not be responsible for outlet placement without that input.

RFI it. I doubt the tilesetter is going to tell anyone "Put the top/bottom of the box at xx inches". They'll need to know where the top of the backsplash is. That's based on how thing the countertop is. And it's all setting on a cabinet that who knows how much is going to be shimmed up.
 
Okay, then I'll provide the ultimate solution: place the switches and receptacles under the upper cabinets.
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